GrayZee

on the z31 the wastegate housing is part of the downpipe. The L28et uses that same pattern but the wastegate housing is separate, with a 4 bolt flange on the outside for the DP. I have never seen a gasket on the L28 turbo wastegate housing, so maybe you could just bolt them up metal to metal. I have never seen a issue from doing that.

It is also my understanding that how much power you can make with nitrous depends on when it hits... From a very low rpm it will tend to vastly increase your torque, but at higher rpm it will effect hp more. Hitting it down low would be more dangerous for the engine I am sure.

with proper tuning, I don't see why not.

I found some info on this website: http://www.driveshaft.com/catalogs_series.htm?series=1310+Series Looks like the Pathfinder might be a winner as the spline count is the same. 3103-30 28/30 1.281 6.266 1.656 1310 Nissan (z32) 3103-30L 28/30 1.281 7.542 1.656 1310 Nissan Pathfinder The only spec that is different is the C/L to end

Some Z's do have a neutral switch on the side of the tranny but they have nothing to do with starting the car. In the 240's it would cause the fasten seatbelt light (and buzzer) to turn on if you put it in any gear unless the driver's belt was clicked in. Some later Nissan's had them too, but it was a signal to the ecu to richen it up on deceleration.

Depends on what you consider cheap? For me the closer to free the better... LOL. I called a driveshaft shop for a quote on making me a new one from scratch, they gave me a price of $500 and they said that most of the cost is in those Nissan components. I figure if I can locate my own used parts I'll be able to make it up for half the price or less..

Is there any chance that the slip yoke from a z31 will fit inside a z32 tranny? I am looking for parts to make a driveshaft for my z32/L28 tranny swap. Z31 parts seem to be alot more plentiful in the local junkyards but I have doubts if it would work.

what is up with the two throttle bodies? I am assuming the one on the intake is just a dummy?

I have heard many different definitions of what the holset threads are, my experience is that the threads are M11x1.5 (very rare oddball size) I milled my stock banjo bolt down to 11mm then ran a die over it. Of course the die I had to custom order from a machine shop.

Most remote car starters have built in turbo timers these days.

Yeah not saying it's impossible but I dunno how you are gonna make that one work, the Holset uses a 4" air inlet and most compatable air filters are going to be quite large. I needed about 3 inches of straight pipe to make my air filter clear the engine mount, then it barely cleared the rad. Not only that, for some reason my engine had a AC compressor mount bolted to the engine, I ended up having to remove that too. If I had to remove that low profile mount, fitting the actual compressor in there seems unlikely. The tightest way I can imagine making a route for inlet air would be to remove the turbo compressor housing and cut off the inlet. Then using some 4" aluminum straight pipe cut some crazy tight pie cuts to fab a inlet upwards and toward the left fenderwell.. I have doubts on if that would work, but it's something to think about. Maybe just throw a screen on there and run without a filter?

Well I got my car home and started working on it, Installed the z32 bellhousing for the time being to mock up my downpipe. It is VERY tight with 4" material. Right now all I have is one 90 degree bend and a 4 to 3" reducer. In order to make the the exhaust get under the car the only way I can see it working is cut up the 90 into a 45 and perhaps two 22.5 degree bends and snake my way through. I will still need to purchase another 90 degree bend as Jeffer was right that the transition has to be made under the car. I can make copies if anyone wants to ask for one soon but man those parts are pricey.. I am gagging at the thought of having to purchase another 4" bend.

No problem, I guess I won't get too much interest in pipes until I get a few pics up. It always seems to be the way.. I hope to start on it sometime next week, I would be doing it now but my car is still in storage at the moment.

Yeah, I still haven't sized it up on the car yet so I'm not sure what will and what won't work.. The reason for the early transition to 3" is more about the cost of materials.. The 4" stuff is alot more expensive. Even that I have to see if it pans out. As for the z32 tranny, I would rather have one that is ready for the upgrade than have to re-make the DP after doing a trans swap. If a pipe fits with the z32 trans, I don't see why it would not work with the L28 trans as it is alot smaller. In fact I just had my z32 bell housing machined, but have not put it back together yet. I am going to mount it up empty, just to mock up a DP. Then I'm gonna put the L28 trans back just to get it back on the road quicker as I do not have a custom driveshaft, shifter or messed with the trans mounts yet. Right now I just want to drive it till I blow up my L tranny.. LOL

Well I am getting back to my Holset swap soon (sigh) Anyway I have to make myself up a new downpipe. I already have a Vband clamp and a custom machined 4" Vband flange to match up with my Hy35. I will likely decide to make it with a immediate taper down to 3" and try to fit in two 45 degree bends around my z32 tranny. So I was thinking if there is anyone out there that would like me to make them one while I have everything apart on my car and can use it as a template let me know. The DP will be designed for: 1. first generation Z 2. Holset turbo with Vband style 4" exhaust outlet. 3. z32 tranny (nissan L28 would likely work as well..) My supplier of mandrel bends only has top quality stainless steel material meant for the food industry, it is very, very nice stuff, unfortunatly it is also very expensive. I don't have a exact price yet but just warning you guys it will not be cheap. It will however be a very nice part, that much I can promise you. Interested members please contact me soon as I hope to have my downpipe issues all wrapped up with in the next few weeks.

Damn dude.. your layout is VERY similar to mine, but I haven't finished mine yet. Now I have a good idea what it is supposed to look like. Very sexy...

In HP maybe... hard to match the torque of a L28et... especially in the low rpm range. Most Hondas have got nothing below 5k LOL

I am thinking that the info you previously read was correct, but for the wrong vehicle. It has been my experience that 300zxt's run lower boost and their pop off valves blow off sooner. For a 280zxt 7psi is normal with stockish exhaust. Around 9psi with a nice 3" mandrel system. The pop off should blow around 10 or so. My buddy's z31 only gave around 5 or 6psi, I thought that was rather lame so we put on a manual boost controller only to find that we were blowing the pop off valve right away. I no longer used mine as I was running about 14 so I gave him my 280zx valve, it worked like a charm.

a mild steel pipe should still last for a few years... If you guys want a stainless 3" one, I can sell you all the parts to make one (flange, bends, 2.5 to 3" reducer and some straight pipe..) but it will cost you more than $100 that's for sure.

for that price you can't go wrong.

Yeah, her ex bf had given it to her as a christmas gift a few years back... I have made more use of it than anyone.. LOL

I have one of those cheap 1500psi pressure washers that you can buy at home depot, recently I left it out in the cold and the wand got damaged. All I needed was a new seal but I was annoyed to find out that there are no replacement parts and the only option was to buy a hole new wand for almost half the value of the machine. I ended up replacing the entire setup (hose, wand, nozzle, tip) with a more conventional 3/8 pipe connections as the wand used some goofy connection that only they have the parts for. Anyway, because I wanted more hose to work with I bought 100' Well I have seen a noticeable pressure drop. I really want to keep the long hose but I wish it had the power it used to (or even more power would be nice) But I am too cheap to buy a real heavy duty industrial washer. A friend of mine made a suggestion that is just crazy enough to work.. maybe? What do you guys think would happen if I were to take my gf's pressure washer and mine.. run both pressure lines into a "T" fitting and then the 100' hose? I think I might have a increase in water pressure AND volume.. Any thoughts guys?.. perhaps it's just a dumb idea...

I did not realise that, if you can find info please let me know!

Ok, looks like I will be getting back to working on my car soon and my thoughts turn to making my downpipe. I never did like the idea of welding on to the Dodge cast iron elbow, not to mention that I never got one when I bought my Holset. This is how I plan to make one.. First I will get a flange laser cut into a circle with the same OD as the Holset's Vband OD. There will be a round hole in the center with the same ID as the exhaust pipe (in my case 3.5") Afterwards the "ring" will be machined with a bevel to match that of the Vband. The material will be mild or stainless steel that can easily be welded to the rest of the exhaust system. Making this peice will cost me a few bucks so I am on here checking to see if there is interest in making a run of them rather than just a single unit for myself. Anyone who is interested, please chime in.

So I guess the little IHI Rbh5 on my Honda is a fetus then... LOL