GrayZee

If the guy is not really sure of the true answer, he is gonna tell you it wont work just to cover his rear.

Oh man.. you mean those things won't even bolt to the manifold? That would make me really mad. I guess for sure I'll be making one rather than buying one. Thanks for the info blairjj.

Stock engine, 92 octane, water/meth injection, 20+psi, good tune. It has been done.

If you are thinking of putting a L28 in one, be aware that the block has to be modified to accept a rearward mounted Z sump and pan.

If the intercooler is that big of a issue I would just run water injection instead.

Wow, you must have posted right as I was writing mine.. did you do any re-wiring at all? I had a similar problem with my Pathfinder tps (I tried to put a 240sx one on) Anyway they rotate in opposite directions so the outer pins ended up being hooked up backward for that tps. Everytime I would hit full throttle, it would KILL all power, but never stall. I ended up switching the outer wires and then it was fine.

It depends on the type of tps switch you are talking about. I assume you mean the stock 3 pin one? Basically the center pin is like a common. When the engine is at idle the top pin forms a loop with the center. This basically tells the ecu that the engine is idling and goes into a mode that is very basic and just runs on temp/rpm. Trying to drive it like this will prove quite useless as you won't be able to get it to increase rpms with the accelerator at all. Once the tps sees a slight throttle movement it allows the ecu to access the fuel/timing maps and drive normally. The lower pin also connects to the center pin, but only at full throttle. Alot of times it is not used, but uses for this could be things like turning off the A/C so the engine can have maximum power under full throttle. This is rather a primitave setup, most cars.. (newer ones) use a variable resistor (potentiometer) style. These can be made to do much more precise tasks when used with the ecu. The 240sx TB that alot of people upgrade to actually have both style TPS switches.

I was thinking of making something like that. I thought of buying that item too, but I wish the wastegate flange was facing down instead of to the side. If you do end up using it, let us all know how it works out!

I have a fel-pro and have run 15-18psi with no issues, my buddy has run low 20's on a nissan gasket with ARP studs.

I was thinking some more about it, the manifold has a more central outlet which seems good but under boost (and assuming hard acceleration) wont the rear cylinders have to push harder to get the gases out as they are fighting the motion of the car? For this reason maybe this would make there rear outlet more desirable. However what I said before about the angle of DP, well in the case of a S130 chassis.. it really might be a nice advantage over having to use two 90 degree bends. Basically I don't know what I'm talking about, just throwing out ideas.. LOL

9psi is pretty conservative, I can run that without any water/meth. Mind you you said you were running 87octane. If I were you I'd start running 91octane and try a couple more lbs of boost. Ever try using a simple check-ball style manual boost controller? They work great you can get one on ebay for like $10 or even make one yourself. If you have a pop off valve on your manifold you'll wanna plug it with a 1" pipe plug as it'll start venting around 10psi.

Another advantage of the forward style manifold would be that you could have a DP with a less harsh angle.

Dude... say it ain't so... that stuff'll kill ya! Ha ha.. Yeah I guess one plus to not running a IC would be no pressure drop at all.

What sort of boost levels do you run? I now have 3 nozzles, 2 in the charge pipe and one in the air intake. The first two power up at a mere 5psi, and the 3rd one not until 12psi. I'm looking to upgrade the pumps tho to run higher pressure/smaller nozzles. Maybe I can set a record for the fastest turboZ without a IC.. LOL With a bigger turbo and some better tires I imagine I can break into the 11's Damn I wish I had the benifit of a lighter 240 chassis... 510six's 10second run is certanly impressive but it's kinda in a different league at it is a lighter chassis and benifits from nitrous.

Yeah, only kind I have ever seen is the rearward mounted one..

Do you know of anything specific? I already did a search and only found countless pages of references to meth injection, it's uses, cons, pros ect... I know all about it.. I have been using it for 2 years. What I did NOT find is any specific references to people that are using it and NOT using a intercooler as well.

it's not really about lowering times.. Just seems like everyone does the IC route and you don't hear about any crazy water inj. setups. I am curious if there are any.. The only non-intercooled one I know of if mine, and it's not that crazy (yet) LOL

I was wondering how many guys are running water injection? I am curious to know about the guys that have no intercooler at all and what sort of times they have been able to accomplish..

The problem with a carb'd SC setup is that you would be cooling the air/FUEL mixture. The cooling effect would cause the already vaporized fuel to break apart and you would end up having fuel droplets inside your intercooler. I can picture one nasty backfire blowing up your intercooler.

you would be surprised how well they can run with a fair bit of shaftplay...

I have been trying to figure out a problem with a turbcharger giving too much boost. Even with the wastegate puck opened all the way gives this L28 20+psi. At first I thought maybe the bleed hole was too small, but it is 7/8", should be big enough to bleed a fair bit of exhaust pressure?... Now I am thinking maybe the turbo itself is a problem, it is a hybrid t3/t4 however I have no idea what the specs are on it. The compressor housing is quite large and has a 3" inlet and 2" outlet, however the exhaust outlet is only 2" Is it possible that the compressor housing is far too big for the turbine housing? A small exhaust wheel would get the compressor going very quickly (which is does..) but once the engine pushes out the exhaust it chokes through a small housing causing a pressure build up inside the engine and therefore the 20+psi right away... Any thoughts on my "theory"??

2.5

There are some places that do sell natural gas right at the pump (in some provinces/states) However I always understood that the natural gas you got to run your car was more expensive than the natural gas to heat your home. The reason being is that a great deal of your cost goes towards road tax. (supposedly to build/repair roads) Anyway I would guess that is you did a setup to fill from your house you would have to keep it low-key Or else they will be looking for a way to tax you on it.. LOL

Auxilary, that car is pretty interesting. I've seen some crazy modified Crx's before with V8's but this one still has the stock engine as well?? Talk about a daily driver/race car.. LOL Although I doubt it gets that great of gas mileage even when just running the Honda engine/with auto trans. (the car now weighs 3200lbs) but it would be nice and quiet for driving down the road looking for kills.. LMAO!

How about a turbo nissan V6 (with a Fwd maxima tranny) in the rear of a Crx?