Nigel

I'm thrilled with mine...

Please don't post guesses. It just means more crap to filter out. The accurate information is in this thread, and it's not hard to find (took me all of 30 seconds). Post #36. "$195 for fiberglass and $325 for carbon fiber." Nigel

Genuine JDM Nissan. Found them on ebay. Nigel

I've had fender mirrors on my Z for over 4 years, and I've never found them to be in my way when working on the engine. Are you speaking from experience or speculation? Nigel

There's a turbo clutch disc and pressure plate for the 225mm flywheel? I assume that's a typo? You can also also use a 240SX collar with the 240mm pressure plate. Nigel

FYI, on this forum, chances are if you can think of it, somebody here has already tried it and posted about it. So, it's expected that you will search extensively first and then only ask questions if you're really stuck. Nigel '73 240ZT

Can you elaborate on this? Only very early Z's (< '71) may require relocating the shifter hole, and those aren't very common. I have an SX box in my '73, and I didn't have any issues. The shifter is centered in the console: And there's lots of room around the hole in the transmission tunnel... As for the OP's questions, I'm very happy with the SX box in my 240Z. I've no regrets about doing it, and I recommend it to anyone looking for a heavier duty transmission, assuming they get the version with extra wide gears and dual cone synchro on 2nd (not all the C boxes are the same). I wish 1st, 2nd and 5th were a little taller (3.7 rear end), but the shorter gearing is not something that's really obvious. I just have a cheap e-bay short shifter, and it's fantastic. The shifts are so short, but still light and positive. So much better than a ZX box. http://www.motortopi...sion-swap-14041 Nigel '73 240ZT

Why? Nigel '73 240ZT

If you look at my pictures, you'll see that for the rear mounts, I put the clips on the side flanges and not the rear. They still line up with the hood frame, but they're in a location where it was just a matter of drilling an oversized hole through the frame to get the mounting screw though. Mind you, I have a crapy aftermarket hood, and the frame is set about a 1/2 further forward on the hood skin than an oem hood. So, just double check before you drill anything. Nigel

The Nissan rebuild kit I had for my ZX MC included check valve parts for both a rear disc and rear drum setup, depending on what you had. It's been 10+ years since I did that rebuild, but from what I recall, the only difference was a rubber nipple looking thing. I'd like to say that the rear disc nipple looked the same as the front disc nipple, but I don't recall for sure. But it seems reasonable that you could take a front disc check valve setup and install it in the rear line of the MC. Hopefully, someone else can chime in on this. Nigel

I misunderstood what you were asking. My apologies. Most people that have a rear disc conversion have also already upgraded the front calipers and switched to a 280ZX master cylinder for the larger volume. The ZX MC is of course, already set up for rear discs. So your situation isn't all that common. Nigel

Double Post... Nigel '73 240ZT

Search "Proportioning Valve" or Prop Valve" instead... you should be able to find lots of info. Be aware that the 280Z and pre '73 240Z's have very different proportioning valves and the plumbing is consequently different as well. Nigel '73 240ZT

I've had mine for two years now, and it's never skipped a beat. I couldn't be happier with it. In fact, I recently did a new best time at the strip of 12.89 with it. Nigel

Here's my more detailed write-up of the 240SX swap: http://www.motortopia.com/album/14041 The later S14 boxes are much beefier than the ZX boxes, are full syncro including reverse, and second gear has a dual cone syncro. These transmissions are much easier to come by than the ZX, BW or Nissan comp boxes. With the BW box, you still have to modify the transmission mount and driveshaft. The machining to a ZX bellhousing to make the SX gears work is fairly minor, and you only have to do it once. If you do break something, you can just swap the bellhousing to another gearset. Nigel '73 240ZT

It turns out that a friend of mine had an original vent sitting in his garage. I had a chance to compare the original to the Classic Datsun vent, and I noticed that the mounting flange bonded to the Classic Datsun vent adds at least 1/8" to 3/16" to the height. I'll try to find some time to make actual measurements. Otherwise, they look identical from the outside. I took some pictures of the original and I'll post them when I have a chance. Nigel

That's my car. That picture was taken when I had Eibach springs and KYB struts. I now have the Arizona Z-Car coilovers, and it was dropped a bit more. I mounted the rear flares a little higher than it turned out I needed to. I'll probably lower them 1/2" to 3/4" at some point, which will make the car look even lower. Nigel '73 240ZT

I had the same lean out at idle on hot days with a 1/4 tank of fuel. So, a couple of years ago, I added a Flex-a-lite fuel cooler after the pump (based on instructions for a Barry Grant cooler), and insulated all of my fuel lines in the transmission tunnel (3/8" lines that ended up close to the exhaust). This made a significant improvement. It's not 100% better, but far more stable than it used to be. At some point, I'm also planning on installing an Aeromotive fuel pump speed controller... My lihttp://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/accessories-electronics/16306-billet-fuel-pump-speed-controller/nk This would reduce the heat pickup by slowing down the fuel circulation, and reduce wear and tear on the pump. I've already sourced a pressure switch to wire into the controller to automatically switch the controller to full speed when boosting. I still have problems with hot starts. I tried insulating the fuel rail, but it made no difference. I'd put my finger under the insulation, and the rail would still be boiling hot. I think the heat is coming up through the injectors. I was thinking about making a fuel rail with another passage to run coolant through, powered by a small PC liquid cooled CPU radiator with a pump (I originally said fan by mistake). But I've also found that letting the electric rad fan run for several minutes after shutting the car down helps a bit too. I'm also going to try adding a toggle switch to let the fuel pump run for a bit to flush out the rail before starting. Nigel '73 240ZT

Here's a more definitive SX swap guide for future reference: http://www.motortopia.com/album/14041 Nigel '73 240ZT

You've seen my car. Would you even notice that they're mounted asymmetrically if you didn't know? Quentin has his mounted symmetrically. If he comes to Z-Fest, you can compare. I think the asymmetry is kind of cool. It shows that they actually put some thought in to where to mount them. Nigel

As in it is or isn't accurate? There was a 432 powered Z police car without the ZG body kit... http://zhome.com/History/432Z2.htm Nigel

Wouldn't this make more sense to post in the Megasquirt forum then?

I just bought this Kyosho model yesterday. Not something I would have ordinarily bought, but the guy offered me a good deal. Nigel '73 240ZT

The black/white wire going to the coil (+) terminal comes from the tach. The tach is powered from the ignition switch directly when the key is in the start position and through the ballast resistor when the key is in the run position. Power to the ignition switch comes direct from the battery. There is no fuse other than the fuseable link at the starter. So there is no voltage at the black/white wire when the key is in the run or start position? How about the black/white wire on the ballast resistor. Did you disconnect any of those wires recently? Nigel '73 240ZT