Nigel

I ran an OEM replacement PHC Valeo clutch from Napa and it survived several years of high 13 second drag strip runs and a few track days. It never slipped. So, if you're just looking for an interim solution to get you by for a while, the stock clutch should hold up fine. But it has to be in good condition. A toasted clutch is a toasted clutch no matter what you have. Nigel '73 240ZT

There's a guy that shows up at car shows near Toronto with an L18 in an ancient hotrod. I could be way off on this, but it looks like it's 1920's vintage. It's been a few years since I've seen it so I'm having a hard time remembering specifics. Nigel '73 240Z

Honing an aluminum master cylinder is not a good idea. It will remove the protective coating from the inside of the bore and result in rapid seal wear. If the bore is in bad shape then the master cylinder should be replaced. Nigel '73 240ZT

Sorry, I just saw this now. For some reason, I'm not getting any e-mail notifications when somebody replies to this thread, but I do for others. I have an internal wastegate. The manual explains how to set up the controller for either (page 8 for internal, page 9 for external). Nigel '73 240ZT

The white smoke is probably due to bad seals in the turbo. Oil that burns in the exhaust will be white, not blue. Just because you can get 7psi of boost doesn't mean the turbo is in good shape. Nigel '73 240ZT

Agreed! Regardless, the check valve in the outlet will prevent it from flowing backwards anyway... Nigel

That's what I did! I was going to post a picture, but for some reason, I can't access them right now... Nigel '73 240ZT

I just ordered the Silver Mine Motors rear setup... http://www.silverminemotors.com/product.sc?productId=38&categoryId=12 11.8" vented rotors and 43mm caliper pistons from '05 to '10 Mustangs. Can't wait to try them out! Nigel '73 240ZT

Brilliant!

Isn't there a big arrow stamped into the side of the housing with the word "Flow" printed in it. I'm pretty sure that's what's on mine... Nigel '73 240ZT

Here's a quick tip if you haven't already removed the old bushings... You don't have to literally "burn" the bushings out as many will tell you. If you just heat up the outer shell, you can pull the old bushing right out in one piece. Just grab the inner sleeve with a pair of pliers and rotate it back and forth while you heat the outer shell. The rubber will separate from the shell, and out it will come. This will work with all of the bushing with the exception of the mustache bar, because it's too difficult to get good heat transfer to the inner shell. Nigel '73 240ZT

Are you sure your garage floor is flat? Perhaps there's a low spot? Nigel '73 240ZT

That's awesome! I'm 6'7" and I can't stand upright under a full height lift anyway. I'll have to remember this for when I buy a house. Why stand when you can sit? Nigel '73 240ZT

A little extra is probably no big deal, but if you trowel it in there like I did, it apparently forces it's way right back out again!

The copy of the manual I have doesn't show the hatch marks which indicate the grease application very clearly in that drawing. I didn't really notice them at all until now, and I can just barely make them out. Consequently, I guess I assumed that the rear axle drawing was meant to be interpreted in the same way as the front axle drawing (FA-20), which is much clearer, and I misinterpreted the line that is being pointed to in RA-25 to mean that the hub should be filled to that point, as opposed to grease being added to the distance piece. Now I know. Well, at least it gave me an excuse to do a rear disk upgrade. Thanks! Nigel

If an admin reads this, please move this to the Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis forum. I accidentally posted this in the Drivetrain forum. Thanks! I replaced the rear wheel bearing in my 240 a number of years ago. I was recently doing a routine inspection of the rear brakes, and when I pulled the driver's side drum off, I discovered grease inside the drum. This happened to me a few years back on the passenger side too. I replaced the outer bearing on the passenger side at that time, but I don't recall what the condition of the seal was. I think it may have popped out. I took the driver's side stub axle out this past weekend to replace the bearing, and there was lots of grease built up between the bearing and the stub axle wheel flange. I was expecting to find that the seal had popped out, but when I cleaned out the grease, there was no noticeable damage to the seal. Since the brake shoes are now contaminated, I decided this would be a good time to do a disk conversion, and I pulled the passenger side axle too to get the drum backing plates off. The passenger side axle was also starting to show a build up of grease on the outside of outer bearing. But after I cleaned out the grease, I could see that the seal still looked good on that bearing too. And like I said, I had just replaced that bearing a few years ago. So, I'm thinking that I packed too much grease into hub, and when everything gets hot and expands, the grease is getting forced out past the seals. The picture in the factory service manual is not very clear. It seems to indicate that grease should be applied all around the hub so that it's almost even with the inner bearing race. In other words, the balls in the bearing would be continually bathed in grease from the hub. That's pretty much what I did. But I'm now assuming that's wrong, so, the question is, how much grease should be put in there? Nigel '73 240ZT

Shouldn't this be in the transmission forum? Regardless, if you're going to do this swap, find a gearbox from an S14 (KA or SR). They are stronger, with wider gears, and a thicker output shaft. They are also full synchro boxes, even on reverse. Go here http://www.motortopi...ansmission_swap for the full write-up. S13 gear width S14 gear width S13 output shaft diameter S14 output shaft diameter Nigel '73 240ZT

Some of my posts have pictures with embeded links that take you to a photo album I have on www.motortopia.com. Because this site automatically shrinks pictures, and you have to click on them to see the full size image, clicking my photos sends you off to my photo album instead. This is very annoying, because you have to keep going back and forth between the two sites. I'd like to remove those links, but can't because of the time lock on posts. Nigel '73 240ZT

The vapor that's floating around in the crankcase isn't just pure motor oil. It's a combination of oil, water vapour, and blow-by gases. Here's a picture of what I drained out of an oil/air separator I had on my Subaru Legacy Turbo... I didn't do a chemical analysis of it, but it sure doesn't look like something I'd want to pour back in the crank case! Nigel

FYI, if I recall correctly, only 280ZX Turbo's with an automatic transmission came from the factory with an oil cooler. Nigel '73 240ZT

I can't find the instructions on the MM site. If the original valve is retained (it would be mounted on the firewall in your year of Z, to the left of where you have your adj. valve from the picture), do you recall if the instructions advised you to gut the original proportioning valve? If so, you've connected the rear brake line to the front right caliper! Nigel

Where did you find the Z specific instructions, and what did they tell you to do with the original valve? Nigel

Where did you install the adj. proportioning valve, and what did you do with the stock valve? Nigel '73 240ZT

You don't need baffling. Just by virtue of the vapour traveling at high velocity in the small diameter tube from the crank case, into a larger chamber, and then having to do a 180 to get back out again, a lot of the oil will drop out of suspension. I have a similar cheap e-bay catch can in-line between the crank case vent and a PCV valve on the intake manifold. I forget exactly how much comes out (1/8 full?), but there's always something in it to drain when I check it every oil change. BTW, I wouldn't want to plumb it back into the oil pan, as it's not exactly clean oil. Oh yeah, one other note: I just have a filter on the valve cover, but it's not a problem because the SDS EFI system uses a MAP sensor. Nigel '73 240ZT

The turbo manifold on the bone stock L28et I picked up was warped. There were no signs of overheating. I had it ground flat ( probably would have been cheaper to get another manifold for the ridiculous amount it cost me!), and hasn't leaked yet in 8 years and 20,000+miles. I've had a header blanket over the top it for the past 5 years. One other note... I had grind down each of the thick washers that are shared between the intake and exhaust manifolds to make up the resulting difference in thickness. Nigel '73 240ZT