Nigel

That's my picture of the two driveshafts, taken from my SX swap guide. It could be 720mm (wish you guys would stick with metric, since that what the car was designed in. All these fractions are giving me a headache ). The angle of the u-joints can affect the length measurement and I don't recall how precise I was trying to be when I took that measurement. The spare shaft that I have is at my parent's place, and I'm heading there in a week and a half. I'll measure it again if I remember. BTW, some R200's (from Z31's?) have a round input shaft flange with a wider hole pattern. But the flange can be swapped for one that will mate to a Z driveshaft. Nigel

I ran a stock regulator with a Walbro pump and it ran just fine. Could be your regulator is sticking. Or hooked up backwards? I've seen that done before. You really need to get a pressure gauge on there first. BTW, mount the new regulator as close as possible to the outlet of the fuel rail and keep your vacuum line as short as possible (like the stock regulator). I have datalogs showing how fuel pressure response is significantly slowed down with the regulator mounted far from the rail with a long vacuum line. Nigel

I don't see that you've mentioned the size of the fuel return line. If your still trying to use the original 1/8 or 3/16 (whatever it is) return line this will cause your fuel pressure to be way too high! You need at least a 5/16" return. Nigel

New to the internet? Did you try typing "350Z transmission ratios" into google? Nigel

The SS flex lines come with female AN fittings. Datsun brake fittings are M10 x 1mm inverted flare. So you need AN to metric adapters. I gave you the part numbers for the -3AN male-to-caliper adapter (pg89) and -3AN male-to-hard line (pg 88) adapter. It’s up to you to chose the appropriate length flex line with -3AN female fittings on each end (pg 87). Nigel

Classic Tube sells various lengths of SS brake lines with female -3AN fittings on each end. All you need to do is choose the length you want and the appropriate fittings to connect to the hard line at the frame and to the caliper. Check out pages 87 - 89 in their catalog. Hint: you want PN SBH8019 for the caliper and SBH8004 for the frame. Nigel

I'm guessing you've spent at least $1000+ so far, so why skimp on another $80 or whatever it is for an adjustable valve? If the balance isn't how you like it (it probably won't be), then you're likely going to end up spending even more money remaking the necessary stainless lines to work with the adjustable valve. Sounds like false economy to me. Just do it right the first time. Speaking from experience... Nigel '73 240ZT

I’m running 255 40 17’s all around with ZG flares. Didn’trequire any major trimming of the air dam or fender at the front. Still lots ofmeat left to bolt the air dam to the fender. I put the car on wheeled dolliesso that I could have the suspension at ride height and still somewhat easily turnthe wheels to check for clearance as I trimmed. I haven’t experienced any rubbing issues anywhere in the two years it's been like that.FYI, I’m running AZC coilovers with 250lb springs. Nigel

That's what I did. Very easy solution. Nigel

Should be. A -AN size is a fraction with an implied denominator of 16. So -6AN is 6/16 = 3/8. I'm not sure what "with wire drill" means though. You can always call to doublecheck it's what you want. Nigel

I found an animation of how they work: http://www.swagelok.com/Downloads/Animations/EN/Tube_Fitting.htm (Use Explorer. Doesn't seem to work in Chrome) Nigel

We use a lot of stainless tubing in the nuclear industry, and Swagelok fittings are very handy for making connections to stainless tube without the need to flare the tubing. They use a compression style ferrule with a nut and can take thousands of psi. All you do is slide the nut onto the tube, then the 2 piece ferrule, slide the tube into the adapter and then tighten the nut. You can get all sorts of adapters and they do have tube to AN fittings. I did a quick search and came up with this... http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=SS-600-6-6ANWD&item=20b6dcb5-5a04-42f1-9df7-a5d3fd3672c3# Nigel '73 240ZT

Here's just about everything you'd ever want to know about the S13/S14 swap: My lihttp://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041nk Nigel '73 240ZT

Might someone have installed a 280 rack?

What year is your Z? Nigel

There are two versions of the vented rotor caliper. One looks like the non-vented rotor version but is wider to fit a vented rotor. It will fit the stock steel rim. The other caliper is larger and has what look like fins on face of it. IIRC, the '88 4 cylinder came with the smaller vented rotor caliper, and the V6 came with the larger caliper. Nigel

He said bumpstops, as in when the suspension bottoms out. Are you sure you're not thinking of bump"steer"? Nigel

Below is a picture of the boot I made up for my SX swap. For the full write-up on how it was made, start here: http://www.motortopi...m/photos/276268

I've used Goop with good success to glue rubber together to make a dust boot for my 240sx 5 speed swap. It's held up for 4 years so far. Nigel '73 240ZT

Why do you think you need a larger brake booster? I have the equivalent of the Stage 4 kit, and the pedal effort is not substantially greater than my Luxo-cruiser '08 Accord Coupe by comparison. If anything, I find my Accord to be over-boosted and touchy. Besides, the '73 240Z already has a larger booster compared with the earlier models. Nigel '73 240ZT

Well, it depends on your "Guru" I guess. Some claim that the hot side is better. Why run hot air through the intercooler if you don't have to? But as Six_Shooter indicated, most of the opinions are based on conjecture, so just put it where ever it makes you happy. Nigel '73 240ZT

Last I checked there was a lot of debate about that... Nigel

Sorry for the confusion about the dual cone synchro on second. I'm not sure why I remember that as being unique to the later boxes. I tried to look at the actual microfische on carfische.com, but carfische doesn't seem to exist any more? Too bad if that's the case, because it was an amazing resource. Does the Z31 box have the synchro reverse? Nigel

I made up a couple 1"x1"x1/4" plates with an M6 hole tapped through the middle of them and had them welded to the bottom of the tank when I had the sump welded on. I then put some tubing clamps around the hoses and screwed the clamps to the plates to keep the hoses from hanging. Unfortunately, I don't have any close up shots, but these should give you the idea... Nigel '73 240ZT

Wishful thinking... I got a deal on mine because it was the first, and it was still $175 plus $90 for shipping to Ontario. Nigel