Nigel

Yeah, I also can't follow your explanation. Can you elaborate? Nigel

Sounds like a missing reaction disk. There's a sticky on it... Nigel '73 240ZT

Not all MBC's are bleeders. Some use a ball and spring valve that blocks the signal to the WG actuator until the spring pressure is overcome. Nigel

If there's a press fit seal for the pinion shaft where it sticks out of the rack, then it's a 240Z rack. If there's a plate with two retaining bolts holding a bearing in, then it's a 280. The pictures don't give a very clear shot, but it looks to me like a 240 rack. 280 racks use wider bushings. Nigel '73 240ZT

Did your MBC ever work? What kind is it? How do you have it hooked up? Is it a stock external wastegate actuator? FYI, surge has nothing to do with no boost increase. Nigel '73 240ZT

When will people learn!? Proportioning valves on '73 and later Z should not be gutted! These proportioning valves use brake pressure going to the front right caliper to modulate pressure to the rear brakes. Gutting the valve ties the front and rear brake circuits together, which, as you discovered, defeats the purpose of having separate circuits. You need to remove the OEM valve from the firewall, splice the gap in the brake line going to the front right caliper, and splice the gap in the brake line going to the rear of car. Then, install an adjustable valve somewhere in line with the rear brakes. Wilwood, SSBC, Titlon and I'm sure a few others all make adjustable proportioning valves. They all work pretty much the same. Just don't buy some Chinese made crap. There is definitely information on Hybridz regarding installation... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/89547-how-and-where-to-install-the-adjustable-proportioning-valve/page__p__850112__hl__%2Bproportioning+%2Bvalve__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=850112 Nigel '73 240ZT

Update: I've had my CS-144 alternator in my Z for just over a year and less than 10K miles now. It was working fine up until a few weeks ago. I started to hear an occasional rattling sound coming from somewhere near the front of the car when the engine was idling. At first they were brief rattles, that would just last for an instant and sounded something like a loose exhaust heat shield. But it quickly became more persistent, to the point that it would often be a constant, loud, whirring, rattling noise any time the engine was idling. However, to complicate matters, sometimes there would be no noise at all, like everything was fine. Or, it would start out noisy, and then just go away. My initial fear was that it was the timing chain. If I had to imagine what a loose timing chain would sound like, this would be it, and the sound was coming from the very front of the engine. But with the use of a stethoscope, it was determined that the sound was actually coming from the alternator. After removing the belt, and turning the alternator by hand it was easy to hear and feel that the alternator fan was rubbing on the housing. But why? The rotor in the later model of these alternators is bolted to the inner race of a ball bearing that has the outer race pressed into the front housing of the alternator and provides the main support for the rotor. At the rear is a small needle bearing that the other end of the rotor sits in. Other than the press fit of the ball bearing in the housing, there is nothing securing the rotor axially in the alternator. As I was told by a reputable alternator repair shop, sometimes the ball bearing will work itself loose in the housing, and the rotor will gradually move back in the alternator until parts start rubbing. If this happens, the housing is junk, and there's no point in reusing it. It will just keep happening. If you didn't do anything about it, I'm sure the alternator would eventually seize right up. Earlier versions had a plate that secured the bearing in the housing to prevent this. So much for progress... Here's an exploded view of the later version of the CS-144 alternator... Hopefully posting this will reduce the troubleshooting time for someone in the future. Nigel

Great idea! So what parts are you using? Nigel '73 240ZT

I believe the 280Z rack bushings are wider, so if you end up with those and you're trying to install them on a 240Z rack, you're going to have a hell of a time. The steering rack bushing part number for the 240Z is 7.10101 The part number for the 260Z/280Z is 7.10102 It's possible that they don't always put the right rack bushing in the master kit. Don't forget that for the control arm bushings, you have to remove the metal shell that's pressed into the control arm, otherwise the poly bushings will be way too tight. Nigel '73 240ZT

Why go through the trouble and expense to install the Q45 diff and axles only to retain the weaker 240Z stub axles? Doesn't that defeat the purpose? If you're going to keep the 240Z stubs, why not just go with the R200 setup with Z31 Turbo axles? It's proven to be strong enough. Should be cheaper too if you can find some used axles and a 280Z mustache bar and you can keep the stock driveshaft. Nigel '73 240ZT

If your master cylinder has bleed nipples on it, then bleed it just like you would the calipers. Nigel '73 240ZT

Why not do something similar to what I did for my 240SX transmission swap, but with the right offset for the BW box... I made a simple jig out of an aluminum bar. You could do something just as easy for your style of mount. For the complete 240SX transmission swap guide, click this picture... Nigel '73 240ZT

I'm confused. How is a small turbo running outside of it's efficiency range and thereby doing little more than generating heat and promoting detonation going to be less damaging than a large, efficient, and therefore cooler running turbo at the same boot level? That's like saying vented brake rotors are more likely to cause brake fade that solid rotors. Nigel '73 240ZT

The original lock washers were quite thick, and if a thinner lock washer (or no lock washer) is used, the shoulder of the bolt (if using original bolts without a full thread) will bottom out in the threads of the strut before the head of the bolt fully clamps the steering knuckle to the strut. But it will still feel like the bolt is tight. I'd check that... Nigel '73 240ZT

I'm still not convinced that this accomplishes anything other than making extra work and adding unnecessary weight. I've been running an RT mount for two years now with many runs down the drag strip, and some road course time, and the GM poly mount is more than strong enough by itself. Under acceleration, the stock lower mount (don't forget it too is only held in place with one bolt) was the weak link to begin with, which is the whole reason the RT mount came into being, so the lower mount is not going to help there. The GM poly mount has internal locking tabs to keep it from deflecting under deceleration, so I doubt the softer stock lower mount is going to be of any benefit there either. Nigel

What's the advantage to draining fluid out of the lower bleeders? Seems to me that's kind of like trying to fill up your sink without the plug... just a waste of fluid. Even Willwood says never to bleed the lower nipples. Can you elaborate? Nigel '73 240ZT

What's the advantage to keeping the lower mount? The poly bushing is more than strong enough, and hardly deflects at all. I was all too happy to ditch the lower mount. Without it, it's so much easier to R&R the driveshaft bolts! Nigel '73 240ZT

Too late for you now, but if your 260 is anything like my '73 240, it's actually pretty easy to just hammer the exhaust hanger in a bit, and then it clears the mount just fine. Nigel '73 240ZT

I'm using these: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=MIA-FST-033&Category_Code=FST The nuts work great, and the 14mm head size makes them so much easier to tighten! Nigel '73 240ZT

Did you look at Willwood's site: http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechFaqs.aspx#SB Nigel '73 240ZT

The differential is mounted in a completely different manner in an S30 compared with an S130. http://www.blackdrag...ll.aspx?Page=45 http://www.blackdrag...ll.aspx?Page=47 Nigel '73 240ZT

They're actually '05 - '09 Mustang calipers (43 mm piston vs 39 mm in the 240sx caliper). There are two adjustment rods for the brake cable length. There is one long one next to the driveshaft and a short one above the nose of the differential. I've pretty much maxed out the long one and I'm still about a 1/2" short of cable on one side. I haven't adjust the short rod yet because the driveshaft, sway bar and crossmember are all in the way. I'm hoping to undo those tomorrow so that I can get access. Even with extending the short rod, I have another issue to deal with though. I have a Ron Tyler differential bracket, and the head of the bolt in the top of the bracket that holds the GM poly mount is now interfering with a pin in the p-brake cable mechanism, which will prevent any more slack in the cable. I'm hoping I can shorten the pin to clear the bolt head. Nigel

Wont work for what? Nigel '73 240ZT

There is definitely supposed to be a plug there. I'm not sure how it would have fallen out, because IIRC, it would have been staked in place originally. There is also supposed to be a rubber boot over the shift linkage, which, judging by the gunk built up around it, has been missing for a while. That should be replaced too, or dirt is going to end up in the transmission. Nigel '73 240ZT

These have the same cone seat that most wheels use including the wheels that originally came on your car. I used these McGard lug nuts (PN 64013) Nigel '73 240ZT