OlderThanMe

aren't those halfshafts mounted backwards? mine have the fat side at the diff.

I am thinking do a clean plain roadster with a clean turbo system and everything polished aluminium...everyone has their chrome and $10k paint jobs but you should just make something clean and simple without any huge wastegates or anything hanging all over the place...make it almost too clean to drive... If I had a shop and was building a shop car that is what I would do. Good luck on your project(s)!!!

just if I had a roadster...

it would not be easy to remove it backward...you may need to remove the dash to properly do it...but that would be a royal pain...

hmm...maybe something will come of this idea...at least a way to stick inhumanely wide tires under a stock bodied Z...

they are usually fully adjustable shocks for BOTH compression and rebound...

yeah...used in a lot of baja 1000 vehicles from vw bugs too trophy trucks...mostly in buggies though. check out www.race-dezert.com I think that is it...it is the major site for offroad desert cars...say the hybridz of desert racing...

hmm...weird...I did the same thing...I eventually got to where only the rear passenger turn signal works so I just pulled the entire wiring harness out of the car...I already have the dash out so it was pretty easy.

This is a very cool idea. once you recover from being broke I think you could put out some sweet cars. I would do the Z first and build it complete japanese style...but a little more racy...then do the shaved clean sr20 roadster with like small(er) wheels. I don't think anything over 15"s would look good on a roadster. definitely like in an orange color with flat black panasports or if you have the $$$$ watanabes... just some ideas...

AHHH!!!! I know what I am doing the next time I pull my diff!!!!! I am starting with my SUs and intake runners soon...did you use water? you can't even see that U-joint though...time to bling out a set of those steel halfshafts...

here is my corner of mull quality rust...at least the rest of the car is not this bad... first is looking where the battery goes... the second one is looking from the passenger seat...imagine doing a gravel rally and being the co-driver...lol third is looking straight down at the battery support and nothing below it.

roger that sir!

more like... I spend all my money on my car...I just need to buy the best stuff rather than pep boys junk...fwiw to clarify things...

I really loke the SS boggers...my favorite offroad tire...almost paddles...

I am now stuck between this design and a NASCAR flat aluminium one...your design seems so good plus my old BRE style one has horrid fitup. My BRE one seems like it is plastic and the bottom piece broke off so it is just a shell. I'll start putting a budget together for a new rear wing...I have to spend every penny I make carefully on my car...

I knew I had rust under the battery and the vertical firewall in the wheelwell...just removed the inner lining and beat out the corruption. That and the passenger floorboards seem like the only big problems. I have a friend that said he will help me with replacing that stuff since he has a shop and a little MIG welder...I just don't have a welder at home...yet...

I have the 11lb SPEC flywheel and it is VERY nice...feels like I have released the lion...wel...maybe not that good but...

just cut out my splitter...it will take a little work but will be easier to mount than my dash...the dash is being frustrating right now...

I would buy it as a 3 piece part...it looks very good. It will be interesting to see how well it mounts.

so far the 5 ft long tube was $6 and the fan was $12... I am going to use incense and use different front ends to see what will flow the most air over the car. I have given up on the idea of getting accurate downforce results just because of the fact tht teh model is soo small and no scale could measure accurately to what I want it to. I am just going to be playing with different air dams made out of card paper for the models. I just want to test out ways of keeping air out of the engine bay and under the car. I just cut out a splitter out of my aluminium that goes back to the first crossmember and will be mounting that soon. I am also taking efforts to close the huge mouth of the Z...

I am rolling paint on my car and you can see the progress in my worklog. I took the entire roof to bare metal and it has around 5-6 coats with a 2in. wide roller. It has not chipped yet on the roof where I painted a month ago but other places where I used a different consistany it has chipped a little. bare metal all the way with the rustoleum...

I have am making a template for a splitter/body pan...I don't know if I have enough aluminium to do it in one piece but I may be able to do it in two pieces. The cardboard stiffens up the polyurethane air dam a lot so I am going to go ahead and cut out the aluminium. I will really post some pictures later tonight... oh yeah...the wiring harness is now out...redoing it all for a new central plate with everything layed out very neat.

thanks Phantaz! the red/black is going to be easy since the interior is already that and so is the motor...I didn't even think about that when I was getting the red paint. I have finals this week so I will be busy. I did get the dash mounted in the car but it is not right...the curve is not curved enough...DUH...so Now I am going to do something creative to fix it...definitely not making another one...I still need to make the switch board and console...that stuff should be easy.

wow! that looks like it will be easy to polish since it is so flat!

cool guys...Time to get a waterproof tube I guess... Just a big PVC one should do with a plexiglass window...I am going to go through with the current wind tunnel and use incense then move on to the water system. For determining lift I was thinking of runing a string front the front bumper foreward, over a teflon pully to a 50gram (or whatever would work 10g to 100g) weight sitting on a digital scale and seeing how much weight is removed from the scale at wind speed.