OlderThanMe

I don't think a 1/12th would fit. Or at least not fit where areodynamics would be rihgt. I have a 1/18th cast metal viper that I am going to stick in there also. It is probably the largest size I would want to fit in there and still have enough room around the model.

ooh...very cool. Needs the correct "Z" though...and the fade in the hybrid...but the pic is very good.

hmm...interesting idea. I am going to play with different ideas with belly pans and diffusers once I do the first tests with regular stuf like different air dams and spoilers.

I am going to cut out the solid plastic radiator that the model has and probably replace it with some fine screen. I will have a string going from the front somewhere forward over a pully, and down to a weight sitting on a digital scale. The amount the weight on the scale that is reduced is the amount of drag. Then just some math to get it to full scale. I will be doing the same thing with another string setup for lift measurement.

I have my 1/25 240Z scale model and am building a wind tunnel right now. I am going to play with different front end designs and spoilers. I am going to use a digital scale to measure drag and one to measure downforce. Give any ideas you have for different front ends. I am going to make the different air dams and maybe a g-nose out of poster board paper. My fan can make a scale 100mph in my 8" X 4' tube. I am going to use cooking flour as my smoke since I am too poor for a smoke generator. I'll post some pics of my progress as I go along.

or an old vw bug motor...they are pretty indestructable...

it would definitely melt the metal. It was about the same as oxyfuel in terms of heat. You couldn't see the flame...so it was hard to tune it to cut right. Did I say we were cutting through 3/4 in. thick metal? Cutting on something that thick is very hard with oxyfuel but it was not quite as hard with the aquagen. Plus the rep. said there are no brown gasses...but then again he did not know how to use an oxyfuel sparker...he had no clue about welding or cutting. It basically uses an oxyfuel torch for the cutting and welding. Interesting idea. But for 7000...I would not bother. It also left a weird kerf. the top 1/8th had a perfect 45 degree bevel. That would make it have more waste and more machining required before a part could be used.

yep...until it vaporises from the heat...

well it is really weird...I just used the system for the first time and it is very similar ot oxyfuel...you can't see the flame at all so it is hard to adjust to have a good flame for cutting. It does not let out any more UV than Oxyfuel...You don't even have to wear dark sunglasses. I just used UV proof saftey glasses. There is no bright flame at all. I will upload some vids when I get home. They are using a regulator on the oxygen at 20 psi but it is running a ton of gas on the generator...

in all these photos I am moving at about 4000-6000 rpm in 2nd gear...20-40mph? in the 3rd one the tires are squealing just a tad. It had rained earlier so I was not doing anything crazy...I also have the rear sway bar out...

well the outside just looks horrible so until I can rip the carbs off it is just for asthetics...for now. If I decide to go with a turbo motor I will probably either sell off this motor, carbs, header etc...

I started sanding my carbs the other day. Just did 400 grit wetsanding on one carb. I need to pick up some higher grit paper to finish polishing and some of that Mothers aluminium polish. I am going to start removing all the unnessary wiring and I plan on pulling the motor and tranny to clean everything up. I may even start a turbo setup with a junkyard block. Depends how much I work this summer. I may just build the N/A motor with tripple webbers and who knows what else...I may go crazy and build a turbo motor with a holset...

well in photos 2 and 3 the little white spot on the edge of the rim is in the exact same spot...could just be a circumstance...

if I live after the hype...

or their water-molecule splitting mechanism could go haywire and nuke the school and leave a huge crater in the ground.

well with welding on cast iron you will have problems with it cracking or pulling apart...what you are supposed to do is drill and tap some holes (not all the way through) and insert some regular short steel studs and then weld over them so it will grab better.

I don't think so...they should be able to use a regular regulator...the guy "didn't know" if he needed a regulator...

HEY these water as fuel guys are coming to my welding class tomorrow!!! My instructor is very skeptical about it. They asked if we had a Oxygen bottle but did not need a regulator...that is 2200 psi!!! I don't think they know what they are doing to be safe...

I have about 600 miles on my SPEC stage 2+ and SPEC 11# aluminium flywheel and it is holding great! I am running somewhere near 190hp N/A and I am pleased. It hasn't slipped yet.

Thickness Tolerance +.025" to -.025" that won't be very smooth at all...that is about 1/16 from a high point to a low point... plus at 1/2 in thick that would be twice as heavy as a stock hood...and $238...whew...better not mess up bending it. +240° F...and don't overheat your engine...

www.mcmaster.com you can buy almost any raw produced material like that. even some military grade stuff.

AAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA best video evar!!!

looks like a hard shape to create...good luck. My dash weighs like 3 pounds and I used .063 3003 series aluminium. It's just a hair thick

never seen them and proud of being a fast and furious virgin...never seen it...never will...

np...have fun Tigging...I often use a Dynasty 200dx.