OlderThanMe

that is some serious force!!

muffler shop...they all have MIG welders. Just have them turn up the heat to get more penetration and have a stronger weld.

the tires are 225/60r15 and the rims are 15"x8" the overall diameter is 25.4" I think.

incorrect # up ^ there. not all 260 Z's had the 3.36 gearing...just the 2+2 and automatic I think...the standard rear end is the 3.545 my 2c

just go dukes style...imagine doing that in a coupe Z...lol

so since y'all are basically making a single louver what effect would window louvers have? My Z came with quarter window louvers and hatch louvers and are still on the car.

in that picture my Z is loaded woth about a 150 pounds of camping stuff...lol driving it on the highway was horrible...had to slow down for every bump in the road or scrape tire...not a good feeling. I want the front to sit a bit further down with bump-steer spacers and lower the rear to that height. I have my coilover stuff with 10 in. 250Lb/in. rear springs and 225Lb/in. springs on backorder and will be here this week. I just pulled all of the rear suspension, diff, swaybar, and driveshaft and most of the front suspension. it is fun trying to take out a differential without being able to move the exhaust.lol thanks for the comment. I have put countless hours on it and will spend probably another thousand hours on it before it is done...

never seen either movie...but have heard something about on/off superchargers from that movie...and I am working on the paint and suspension now...lol it will soon look better... trying to finish it for less than 12 grand...and a LOT of hours...I am aprox 7.5 grand invested now...I don't know where it all went though. I guess I bought oem parts to get it running. *bonk* should have waited and replaced 8mm wires with 8mm or larger wires, coil with bigger coil, etc...In that pic I had just removed the bumpers(tookjust a little while...lol) now I am not just getting it running but I am now doing the fun stuff.

I am going to strip mine back down to bare metal and paint it from there... KAZ...did you do two coats before you wetsanded? that is what the guy on the moparts forum said to do. Someone should tell them about our sucesses/failures with this stuff...

I just thinned it until I felt good about it...lol just like the guy n the moparts website...lol don't try to use something that someone else used...different parts of the country(altitude,humidity, etc...) change what you need. I used about..I just made it almost as thin as water...so it would drip off the end of a screwdriver to where you could tell it was a little thicker than water...just if there was a unit of measure for viscosity...hmm

The new HOT ROD magazine with a cuda on the front has an article in it about areodynamics. even though it is on a 32 ford there is a lot of information of what causes lift and how to decrease it. they have several test results and pictures from a wind tunnel

do you have coilovers or stock suspension? I am running 15x8", 4in. backspace, wheels all around with 225/60r15 tires and have about 3/8" of clearance on the front and more on the back...oh...the rims stick out about an inch from the stock fenders... I am now installing coilovers and could probably run more backspace...I just bought these rims though...before I knew I was going to go with coilovers...lol... I thought it was going to be a lot longer before I converted.I can run some wider tire now like 245front/275rear if there is anything that wide for 15" wheels...

y'all are making it look hard... here is what I got...it was like 95% humidity and I had to keep the garage door open and stuff was all getting in the paint... plus I was told that I had to park my car outside that night to give up the garage to the 944 like 2 hours from when I just started the hood...it was still very sticky...I was going at it with a hair-dryer...lol this is after 1 coat on bare metal before sanding or anything...

Today I ripped all of my suspension out and removed my diff too. My Z is an early 74' 260, 4 speed, regular coupe, r180. Cam, SUs, header, 2.5 exhaust blah blah... I pulled the diff cover and I saw this. I did not see any stampings on the ring gear. What does this number mean? 283 is also on the pinion gear along with "T1" I pulled the diff because it was leaking very badly... it appears to be in very good condition and there were very few metal shavings on the drain plug magnet. It is an open diff and I would like to upgrade in the future but I am spending all my $$$ on coilovers...that is why I am stripping it apart. Also what kind of paint is good to paint my diff and suspension parts? while I have them out I would like to paint them. I also have all the polyurethane bushings ready to go on. thanks in advance.

The photos are on my other computer...and I am in GA...I am not going to say where that Z is...it is pretty well hidden...

I have found a race car Z in a junkyard that has a chevy emblem on the side...no motor,trans, or interior...it has that california Z kit but the rear fenders have about 4" of flare added to that width...the rear tires are 335 width...it also has the aluminium ball/socket TC rods and HUGE swaybars... it also has 5 lug rear and L88 hood...I think I will buy it for the swaybars and TC rods and sell the california Z kit... If anyone is interested I will go buy the car and sell the kit ...no whale tail...just the 4 fenders and hood. I will also sell the wheels the rears REALLY WIDE...The kit is very heavy duty and is in great shape...I am guessing the the rear is converted to calipers and would include it if you want it all...If you would be interested give me a pm and I may quote you a price...I have to drive like 2.5 hours to the junkyard...lol and then I have to rip it apart and then dispose of the shell somehow...maybe the local Z junkyard would take it...

I like it too...I am just running a wider rim than those guys...I have just been working on the flares yesterday trying to smooth them out a little more...

well I am going to be running 250 lb/in. on the rear and 225lb/in. on the front and I don't think the strut cartridges will last very long with those spring rates...and I don't want to spend $600 on illuminas that are reported to not work well with that spring rate...

I prefer the Miller machines since that is what my welding school is completely outfitted with. Right now you can buy a Miller 135 MIG at www.cyberweld.com for $604 with free shipping. you just have to get the bottle and flowmeter...and it plugs into a regular wall circuit...I am looking at a Miller 175 MIG to have more penetration welding on thicker material such as frame or suspension sections...Lincoln has just been very resistant to donating welding machines to our school. but always use ESAB for plasma cutters...those ROCK!!! way better than the school's Miller plasma cutter...or Thermal Dynamics...very good.

I have an idea...instead of spending $$$$ on shocks why not just add a short shock to increase the dampening ability without blowing the wallet. The rear should not be that hard...just weld on some mounts...the front would be a little more difficult but could be achieved. I'll post a drawing of my idea later tonight or tomorrow. The offroad guys run multiple shocks for a reason...they need more dampening than a single shock can provide. You could just get some high performance short vw type 1 shocks (cheap) and mount em' really easy...

if you want a good, cheap tube bender that works first time,every time, unlike that harbor freight stuff, then check out this gyy's website...They do the off-road vw bugs and have built a couple tube-frame bugs...sorta redneck but their stuff works... http://www.blindchickenracing.com

here are some pics from last year of my 260Z and wheels here is a pic of my 15x8" diamonds... and a rear shot...they look really good and mine weigh 18lbs each without the 225/60r15 tires... hope this helps...should have gotten 16in. wheels...much better tire choice... clears the 79-85 calipers by about 3/16"...close...lol replaced my 14x6.5 eagle 5 point star wheels...which I think I am going to sale...3 old tires and one brand new one... *edit* I used 4 in. of backspace to clear the stock suspension...however now I am converting to coilovers...Now I could use 4.5-5in of backspace...the rears could actually use an extra half inch of backspacing..

so you just put the jets right after the carbs or right before the intake gasket? I have seen a pi9cture of a motor with triple minukis and 6 jets right before the gasket. I don't want to do anything crazy...just a little suprise incase of a turbo civic or to be able to keep up with a vette that has a driver that knows how to drive...not many around here...

I wonder what is wrong with it...

I was looking at that kit in my Jeg's magazine...I would just have to set it up for two jets...one for each carb since I don't have the 1 piece air cleaner any more. I just think that that 10 oz. bottle is not enough. I do have several paintball Co2 tanks that are rated to 3000 psi that I could use.