OlderThanMe

hard as a rock. I had problems early on with it being soft but now that I have it right it is awesome.

that is his other car...

here you go http://www.durocco.com/ watch the videos...it should not be that hard to make... they invested $1800...lol

haha...but a lot of hybrid Z's get like 15 mpg...like mine. until I get my bw T5...

look at LS miatas from like 03 and there you have the bottom lip...then cut and paste...elementary dear sir.

I haven't done any body work yet...I just stripped all the bondo off and those problems were under the bondo. that part ontop of the flare is because I just took a hammer to the fender to make the flare. it is all of the original metal there and nothing new. I just have to smooth it out after I rip this paint back off to do my blue and orange paint.

Look at the gap under the side skirts...that car is like stock height. That is completely useless.

I finally put a second coat on my left fender that I stripped and on the partially stripped hood to see how it would do over old paint as well as over bare metal. my haynes manual after the second coat with no sanding my mixing cans... the fender and hood. The bad part on the edge of the hood is where paint got half way stripped off I am going to do a lighter blue and a single wide orange stripe on the real paint job. I used the black just because it is so picky I could see every problem so I could get the proper mixture of paint to mineral spirits.

it definitely took a lot of work...the roof looks like a 240sx or something...who knows...

I am going to be doing 4" plastic ducting that is reinforced with steel wire. sorta like dryer ducting but plastic instead of aluminium foil.

I still haven't joined the 200hp crowd yet...at least I am really close...I am guessing 190-210...L26, cam, SUs, header to 2.5 exhaust and turbo muffler, I tuned the carbs right and I gained some power and that night the clutch began to slip after getting the clutch hot...that was stupid... dropped the clutch at 3500 and squealed a tire and slipped the clutch...then 10 minutes later it was slipping bad.. once it was cool it did fine. I haven't gotten it hot again since then, but have only put 500 miles on it since I overheated it.

looks like the miata add on lip... not that great looking...could have been smoothed in.

yeah yeah...if you are running some crazy powerful L6 Z then you can probably roast any clutch. I can't drop the clutch from 5k on my Z without breaking the tires loose...well before my clutch died. My Z is not drag raced much at all but more driven through mountains and weekend driving. Drag racing puts a lot more stress on everything than just spirited street driving. I am currently thinking about going with spec stage 2 for mine.

I don't think so...74 is carbed and 75 is efi...

yeah...you can get some from a vw guy that is going to wider flares for dirt cheap...like $40 for some fenders... and you can make upto like 4"-5" if you wanted too...not that hard. The hardest part would be trimming near the rocker panel on the front around the lip.

here you can see the difference in the front to rear fenders... I may go to my bud's house and pick up a set of his rear fenders to cut up... it seems like it would be fairly easy to do.

I think all four flares are vw rear flares. this front one looks too abrupt to be used on that Z...

well welding lenses are specially made to stop all UV light from coming through the lens...sunglasses offer minimal protection that is not good enough. The HF helmets are a shade 3 and darken within 1/25,000 of a second. After about a year my last HF helmet started flashing me in low amperage TIG so I got a new one and got the warranty. They last around a year of welding 15-20 hours a week. My current one is 4 months old and I have done stick horizontal, vertical, and overhead so the helmet is baked and has a few holes from serious globs of metal sitting on the plastic hood. It is a great price for what you get. you need at least a shade 8-9 if you are just watching MIG to be safe...better safe than sorry. Great $50 buy.

it should be the same. Courtesy Nissan has fuel sender units for $35 US but you should be able to get one from a Nissan dealership over there.

I like those MT sportsman tires... I wonder if you could stuff some of those 26.0X12.0 R15 tires on a some 15X8s like in my sig...that would look sweet...Summit says minimum rim width of 8.5...it is just a half inch...it could work..

old vid of my Z back in the winter mainly for friends that haven't seen my car...just click on the photo Video Hosting - Upload Video - Photo Sharing I am a bit worried about that tick around the #4 or #5 cylinder...it goes away when the car warms up a bit. It was very cold outside that day...

on tire rack put in 295/50/15 and you will get like 5-6 different tires. they are all under $110 each...BFG the most at $109...the cheapest was $70... lol I want to squeeze some of those 295/50s on my 15x8 diamonds on the next tire change...and 235s up front...that will be mean looking...

I got some of that Kroger crap and it ran horrible, it was like it was all water. I also used to buy premium at citgo that is right next to my work and it was OK. but then I switched over to Chevron premium and I gained serious power and gas mileage. I only buy at this one station that I have never gotten bad gas from.

Try welding school...I know several IT guys that have come in to learn welding after geting burned out on computer stuff. A typical welding job with a year of experience is around $10-$15 an hour. If you go to school for two years you can start from $13-$25 an hour depending on what you are doing

until reaching NYcity