OlderThanMe

well...even though you can grind and re-weld that does not mean it will be as good as the first weld...every time you weld you weaken the base metal so after so many times of welding, grinding, and re-welding the base metal will be too weak to be acceptable...lol...but Mig does not put as much heat into the weld poolas does stick or TIG...I am going to get a mm175 for the current time but I am saving for a Dynasty 200 DX...We have 2 of them at my welding school and they are AWESOME!!! they can do almost everything that a syncrowave can do but it is like 400 pounds lighter with a total weight of 45 pounds...plus you can hook it up to anything from 115volts all the way up to 480volts...

check out this site www.eng-tips.com they have a HUGE source of info on areodynamics...

it could be...but would it be useful only being just over an inch tall?

here is one of the other pictures on that site... you know how easy it would be to make those? the only thing is that they don't look to be mirror images of each other in this pic... weird..

back on subject... I looked at my suspension again and aparently I have no bumpstops...either they just have rotted away or they were removed... so I guess I will need some of them as well.

are you sure you didn't get mad after a bad weld and wing your helmet? I've seen it happen...you can get a standard helmet at Harbor Freight for like $10-$12

so what if I were to take a johnny joint and weld a cap with a hole in the middle on one end rather than a snap-ring? That way there would be enough strength to hold upto the vertical stresses. it seems like that would work fairly well and would be quieter than a reguar monoball. Plus the rebuild kit is cheap because soo many 4x4 guys abuse them...all you would have to do is take it apart and youcould replace the friction surfaces if they go bad rather than a metal-on-metal contact.

I guess a johnny joint is just a grown up version of the monoball... http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1081 Currie makes the best one. they are used mostly for offroad stuff so they are definitely strong enough for a little sportscar...lol and they have like 35 degrees of travel...plenty

yes while the Hobart 180 is $675 the MM175 is $800 with a cart...who needs the cart???just build one and save $50-$75 lol The infinite voltage control is very nice...and as long as you take care of the Hobart and don't get angry and throw the machine the plastic should not be a problem... And thank goodness that was canadian...I was worried at where you were going to buy your welder...evil-mart or pep-boys or something...

yes that is SWEET!!! I am going to make the rear panel like that except have it come lower to the ground about 2-3" to cover the gas tank. I want my Z to be all metal too...no fiberglass...and very little bondo... just enough to fix the small problems...I am taking all the paint off my Z currently and now I see why the last paintjob was a "$1500" paintjob...more like $1000 of covering damage and rust and about $500 in a thin layer of paint and clearcoat...time to get buy a mm175...

I knew that something was up with that flat side! Since I am doing coilovers what part should I get? I am planning on doing camber plates in the future so I don't want to spend too much money on more oem parts. I think for the camber plates I am just going to make some with 1/4 in. steel and johnny joints rather than use monoballs that seem to be sorta wimpy...just weld it up and keep everything straight.

you can get a Hobart 180 which is the same thing as a Miller 175 for like $675 plus extras...Miller owns Hobart's welding division...same stuff except cheaper as Hobart...The blue paint is more expensive...

1500!!!! AHH!!! go to www.cyberweld.com and get one there...I don't know where you saw that price!!! I have two friends that bought a MM175 and 3 ft bottle of 75% argon/ 25% Co2 all for $900 new!!! with a cart, bottle and regulator!!! you could get a Miller 210 and some other stuff for that much!! or you could buy a Miller econotig for that price

BARACUI put some small pieces of hose over the studs, to protect the threads sticking out of the top hat. Put a long screwdriver or bar between two of the studs, hold the screwdriver to keep the strut insulator hat from turning , then just loosen the nut. Same goes for installing it. AL I tried that but the strut just spun inside it...oh well it was a good idea.

taking it to a shop would be a bit of a hastle because I just unbolted the entire suspension...I just unbolted the rear control arms and the top of the strut from the car...I guess I could just toss it all in the back of the FORD Exploder and take it to a shop somewhere. thanks for the replies.

I just don't have the luxury of any air tools unfortunately. I am planning on switching them out for illuminas. I just need to bid on some on evilbay...

I got somespring compressors and I compressed the spring and I tried to losen the top nut but the strut just spins. HOW DO I LOSEN THE TOP NUT??? I sprayed lubricant on it and it will not budge...even with holding the hat still. Thanks for your help Dan

this is good info...I now have my coilover stuff with 225f/250r springs and I now just need to order new inserts...I think I am going to get the Illuminas just for the ease of installation...plus I am very poor...I may have a buyer for my Eagle wheels and cheap tires for like $100 and that should give me enough money for the struts.

that is cool!!! I have seen conversions for a rear engine v8 but not a mid engined one!!! that is SWEET!!! I just wonder how close it is to the torsion housing...

I'm with Davy...the Z has the cab at the "back" of the car with a very LONG engine in front of it. the McLaren has te engine in the back... unless you were just adding it in front of the hood like a Gnose.

yes!!! balance them!!! even if you hub balance them that will be better than nothing!!! I had mine just hub balanced and they shake a little but not bad...once I get my Z back together I will have the tires re-balanced...

looks like a skater kid who just faceplanted a pole...

My dad has a 944 turbo and it costs $$$$ to keep it running...to bleed the clutch you have to remove 2 heatshields, the starter, and some other stuff and then you can barely get a wrench on there to losen the bleed valve...lol and don't try to drive a 944 turbo onto some ramps...or fit a regular jack under it...we have to drive it onto a stack of 2x4s to be able to get a jack under it...and it is not lowered at all...lol The porche has air conditioning is there but does not work...to buy a replacement clock it is $500...and it is digital...it is really fast but a bit heavy as well...once it hits 3200 in third it is pulling all of it's 217hp... it is rather slow off the line...my Z would have it all day...until we hit about 60...then the Porsche would have it. If you want a car that will never lose it's value then get a porsche...but think of the starting price that you will pay for a decent 944 turbo...7-9 thousand and then spending that much in the next two years to keep it running...a turbo replacement is like 2 grand overall... just a lot of $$$$ I have like 7 in my Z and it is more fun to throw around and not always worry about messing something up...plus the S30 weighs like 800 or more pounds less...I shouldn't rant...it is a good car...but not the most reliable... The one My dad bought has been wrecked...and there are lots of problems with it...lol

that looks like 1/4" steel

that tire is pretty tall...I am running 225/60r15 and it is too tall for regular use...better have some stiff springs or coilovers to keep from scraping.