OlderThanMe

LOL. Those are about the regular prices at my yard. www.pullapart.com The have other junkyards throughout the southeast now and have LOW LOW prices! The South Atlanta location has about 5 S130's and a couple Z31's at any point in time. They have had up to 3 S30's before but they get stripped pretty quick and usually are rusted out beyond repair. They got a Z32 about 2 days before I came home from school and by the time I got there it was completely stripped out.

Jeff, Are you setting this intake and top end for use on your original L24 or are you building a different shortblock for it? Looks absolutely stunning! Dan

I have a bunch of L blocks laying around and a VH45... So I was cleaning up and saw the similarity of a VH45 driver side timing chain tensioner and an L6 tensioner...uhoh. For the pivot mount you would use the lower stock tensioner block mounting bolt hole and tap it to the larger bolt size for the pivot. A new hole may need to be drilled though for proper algnment of the timing chain with the tensioner. You would want to use a 1994-1996 Infinity Q45 driver's side tensioner as it is of all metal construction in comparison to my 93 model which has a plastic covering which has a tendency to crack up and munch your motor(school of hard knocks, literally). One concern is that you will need to provide oil pressure to a hole on the back of the tensioner to keep it pumped up and oiling the rear of the guide. One could tap off of any oil passage and run a little AN fitting to it. You will also need to mount the tensioner above the deck surface of the block with some sort of mounting plate and some working on your cylinder head to clear the tensioner... I'd say it is worth it though and MUCH cheaper than importing an aftermarket tensioner for $500+. The spring on the side goes inside of the tensioner... check out the clip. VH vs. LD28 timing chain tensioners... VERY close: I'll be doing this mod on my mockup block to see if it would be even feasable. The hydraulic tensioner would need to have a hole/slot cut in the cylinder head to work. I believe it will fit underneath a mechanical fuel pump though. You can forget the problem of dropping your timing chain and popping the tensioner out. Also note the clip on the tensioner, easy to lock shut for during a rebuild/repair of the shortblock. I'll get better pics tomorow. OTM BTW getting one of these puppies out of a VH45 isn't easy. In a junkyard with the motor still in the car I'd estimate 3.5-4 hours of work to release it from the motor if you have never pulled a VH apart before. If you have, then maybe 2 hours of work, depending on everything that is still on the car. You have to pull the front main pully first...or have a good dremel to cut away the front cover.

I think a turbo impeller shaft is way to weak to withstand pulsations from a gear driven system. It wouldn't be worth the effort... Ford thunderbird superchargers (M90??) show up on Ebay all the time for DIRT cheap. I suggest Corky Bell's book on supercharging...(never read it, but I have his turbo book "maximum boost" and it is great)

Just heard from the seller and apparently it can be a standalone welder as well as robotic so OTC should have the proper hand-held torch for it. OTM

And the price is right!!! I would need about $400 in accessories to make it functional and then whatever fiddling to get everything hooked up. Bottle, TIG torch, ground cable, etc... There is one downside... The welder isn't "older than me"... Oh well.

Hey guys. I have an opportunity to buy an incredible welder for a great price. Basically this welder, http://www.daihen-usa.com/products/wps/da300p.html but a good bit older and at an incredible price. (MSRP of the new version is $7400...lol) Here are some pics of the one I am looking at... It can weld from DC 4-300 amps and do AC for aluminum 20-300 amps plus a bunch of goodies like crater filler control. It also has a water cooler for a water cooled torch...(trust me, its quite nice after using an aircooled torch for a good long while..) It was only used for robotic use but I would want to convert it over to manual use. I think I'd be able to convert it over to use a standard TIG torch and foot control with some fiddling. Any ideas, comments, or other random advice? Unfortunately no pics of the output cables... Another good thing is that the manufacurer is still in business for repair/maintinance parts. OTM

Some kind of an S30-ish concept Z or an S30 rebody. I'm still working on it but I just wanted to update this thread. The tires are a bit off and the camera is at a angle to the paper. Hope to get a scan soon.

Its not a Z but...purdy.

For some subliminal reason I am thinking hoax... look at the URL for the pic. img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/Designgrl97/stolen-1.jpg What was the original source for this?

Josh, I say keep the turbo tom exhaust manifold and turbo. You will be significantly downgrading going back to a L28ET turbo manifold. I would imagine that you would be able to use a stock intake with little or no work to your exhaust. There is somebody that welded a stock EFI intake base(for the injector mounting) to a different manifold. I think it may have been a turbo tom manifold. I say convert the turbo tom over to EFI using your N/A intake base but the turbo tom manifold cut/welded or a better plenum. Run the rayjay turbo until it has no life left and then find a good replacement turbo. Doesn't that exhaust manifold have a T4 flange on it? For EFI you can use Megasquirt which is pretty cheap...but not very user friendly. I've got an extra L28ET exhaust manifold if you want to see how different (dinky) it is from your turbo tom exhaust manifold. What I'd do if I were you, Put a hood scoop on the driver's side and put an intercooler right there(Impreza WRX style) to keep the intake tract short, or use an air/water intercooler. Maybe like one of the LINDSEY RACING intercooler units. Dan

That doesn't make sense. 14.13:1 is more rich than 14.7:1 so why would you have to run it "richer". I think you got your numbers mixed up somewhere because you would have to run E10 leaner to get the same AFR according to those numbers you posted.

Yeah. I'm on the Eastern side of Atlanta and every single gas station that I have been to has had the required "contains up to 10% ethanol content" sticker on the pump. Oh well. That and gas is now like $4.05 a gallon and $4.50+ for premium which is still below the national average.

I was just talking about using higher octane to get rid of the knock, but it still has the ethanol in it eating way at my fuel system. I'd rather lose the fuel system to ethanol than shorten the life of the longblock. I went from 23mpg to 20mpg when all of the gas stations swapped over to the 10% mix. It seems like it would be like 83 octane and then they spike it as you said, with the ethanol. That is about 10% gas mileage loss which makes me think the ethanol does nothing good for combustion. I understand WHY it is in the gas, but WHAT WERE THEY THINKING!?! Sure we don't have to import it, but to what ultimate cost? I don't have a flex fuel system so its only a matter of time before things get wonky in the injectors and fuel lines. There are other ways to have our own fuel and not use the wonky juice....while all of our cars have the injectors eaten away. If I could buy regular gas, I would even at greater cost.

SAAB Sonnett III Uber lightweight Fiberglass bodied sportscar. I believe they came with a V4 engine. I almost picked one up a while back but the chassis was too rusty.

Well we used to take our 01 Honda Odyssey (great vehicle BTW) on cross country treks to Colorado, Kansas, Ohio, NY, Louisville Kentucky(been there about 10 times), and other places.... Twice we used some Illinois gas that had a fairly high ethanol content(IIRC it was 25%+) and it destroyed the injectors. Fortunately it was still under the factory warranty and Honda replaced them for us no problem. It would have cost upwards of $600 otherwise. Heck I even bought my Frontier at our Honda dealership because of their great service people. LOL. I'm wary of using this ethanol gas in my truck because of what happened to our van. Yes I do have a year left on the drivetrain warranty (5 year 60,000 mile) but I don't want to use it. Can I upgrade the injectors to some newer flex fuel injectors? Mind you that I'm doing 25,000-30,000+ miles a year on this thing and it needs to be reliable... I only have ~51,000 miles on it right now and it is in great shape and has had no problems except that it is now pulling timing under light acceleration and usually going up a slight hill. I'm sure I could go up to 89 octane but I don't think that is necessary and there is still ethanol working at eating my fuel system.

Yeah that is what I thought. I have only had access to the 10% stuff for a while now. I've run about 25 tanks of it @ 16 gallons per tank. It ran great at first, but now it really stinks... BTW I drive ~350 miles a week.

I was wondering if anybody has been having problems with the new 10% ethanol gas? I am using it in my 04' (VG33 8.9:1 N/A IIRC) Frontier and it seems that when I am accelerating in 2nd, as I pass ~1700 RPMs @ 35-50% throttle the computer pulls timing(that is what it feels like) and I lose a good bit of power. Something is firing off my knock sensor and pulling timing. Mind you this is the car fully warmed up. This happens about 10% of the time. It is about 95 degrees ambient temperature... This never happened with the non-ethanol gasoline. I would think that the ethanol would evaporate and maybe cause the motor to run leaner to possibly cause the knock? Maybe I'm way off base? I'm really a noob when it comes to ignition and EFI systems... Any ideas? Maybe I should go back to Chevron for gas rather than the cheapo places like QT and racetrac?

I saw that car at ZdayZ 2007 and it was a pretty slick piece. Definitely something to put some thought into using. I think a raked windshield or a windshield from another car would work better. (maybe a large minivan windshield all cut up...)

Or just shift the two middle runners in toward each other at the angle of the outer ones to achieve the same length runner.

I have one of those small 240Z boosters and I paid big moolah (~$400) for it. By the time I got around to trying to install it I discovered that my early 260Z uses a different booster and my return time had elapsed from MSA... So I have a still in bag new or rebuilt (whatever MSA's $400 part is) booster. make offer? lol. I'll take mucho smaller moolah for it than what I paid.

Exactly. Read the constitution... "Right to bear arms." Z-tard, Your gun looks absolutely incredible! Maybe a video of that beast plinking off some steel plates or coke cans?

Well I remmeber from when I was a kid living in Japan that... San is three. So turbo(guessing) 3(liter?) ____ lives forever? Good one Tony... Brian, It would be incredible to see what that head does on a 100% stock fresh L28ET bottom end with cast pistons at stock boost just to have a baseline number. (maybe pistons clearanced for valves?)

So Proxlamus had a good thread going about the fact that he wanted a high revving exotic V8 and what were available choices... Over the last several months I have read numerous papers and websites with often conflicting information. I decided to only trust sources that were from major auto manufacturers and people that worked for major auto manufacturers and all of their data has been without conflict so far. There are several issues that will need to be addressed in designing your crankshaft. 1. What is your goal? 2. How wide and deep is your wallet? (if it’s size is a problem, do not read on) 3. What is the intended use of the engine? 4. How many miles do you plan on putting on the engine between rebuilds? 5. Full Race, wild street/mild race, or daily driver/mild street? 6. Build it cheap or build it to no limits? I'll slowly go through an introduction and hopefully some more detailed information on how to design/build one of these engines from an available USDM V8 engine block, wether it be Ford, Chevy, Nissan, Dodge, Toyota, Lotus, etc... First off, SHAKING FORCES (THE BASICS) Many people on the internet say that the amount of shaking forces in a flat plane V8 in comparison to a 4 cylinder engine is 1.41 times greater for the displacement (I have even said it, not knowing much better than to believe those goons). This is just completely inaccurate as it does not take into account any actual parameters of the V8 flat plane crankshaft itself. Would a super short stroke, large bore flat plane V8 have the same vibration as a long stroke, small bore flat plane V8? Obviously this is not the case. In actuality the second order shaking forces on a flat plane V8 with a 90 degree bank angle (the famed vibration) equals (sourced from S.A.E.): H= (4*sqrt 2*Lambda*C) (sin 2θ) Where, H= unbalanced horizontal inertia shaking forces Lambda = ratio of crankshaft stroke radius (stroke/2) to connecting rod center-to-center length. C = Centrifugal force in pounds produced if the reciprocating mass of one cylinder(half of the crankshaft on the connecting rod throw side) were rotated with crankshaft speed on the crankshaft axis. This should include the mass of oil filled oiling passages and oil layer on bearing surface. Here is a visual that I sketched in SolidWorks of what needs to be designed for balancing (minus oiling passages and fillets in the connecting rod and main journals) There are no vertical or centrifugal shaking forces involved in the first or secondary order forces with this crankshaft. There are also no rocking forces involved. There is a fourth order event around the middle of the crankshaft which is usually minimal and not particularly worth worrying about. I have seen a F1 flat plane V8 crankshaft that was not evenly balanced(counterweights not between the main and rod bearings at every location) and it snapped in the middle. Thus I believe counterweights should be used on every possible spot to not cause problems at the center of the crankshaft. That means 8 counterweights. If you think about it, a flat plane V8 is naturally balanced from one side to the other. This means that if you spin the crankshaft along its axis then no particular side will end up facing up or down. You then ask why are counterweights needed at all? Crankshaft deflection. From my readings a partially counterweighed crankshaft can twist upwards of .09 degrees which is enough to begin wearing on the bearings. I will be adding more shortly... BTW lets keep this thread 100% technical and no hearsay or blabbering posts...

Das gut. BRAAP PWN OTM. for now....