OlderThanMe

I think Nissan has been doing the right thing with retro-izing the 350Z. First the hood bulge and now the nice quarter windows...

Porsche SOHC 944T's have a seperate electric oil pump for the turbo and runs for 30 seconds after shutoff-thus reducing running cooldown time(saving gas...lol). Maybe one of those pumps could be employed on a L28ET to have more predictable oiling of the turbo. Also look at a LD28 main pully. It has a cogged gear for a belt to run the Mechanical fuel injection pump. I could see the pump pully being adapted in a dry sump L series with a hacked up front cover if the gearing ratios for the pullies are correct for a dry-sump pump.

Its really not that hard. There are plenty of companies that would be willing to build a custom crank for you. Its big companies like Scat that don't want to do it because of the large amount of time and labor going into the design only to sell 1-10 crankshafts... Smaller companies can make a billet crank with the same quality as the big boys and maybe even be better. www.kingscrankshaft.com www.customcrankshaft.net "How hard is it to have a CNC flat plane made up?" You just plug your CAM/CAD file into the CNC machine and let it go. The coming up with the design is the hard part and there are MANY decisions to be made in the crankshaft design process. A flat plane V8 crankshaft is VERY different than a standard crossplane V8 crankshaft. Much more than rotating the journals inline and hitting print on the billet sculpter machine. Some of the considerations: Are you after very quick revving/race motor or longer bearing life(i.e. 100,000+ miles) and fewer refreshings? Any fancy drilling to remove weight? Bearing oiling designs? Bearing design? Journal size?(crank strength and bearing surface area.) Connecting rods? some OE rods or custom ones? How much stroke? Less stroke=stronger crank, rev higher, less vibration, less stress on rods, more efficient rod/stroke ratio which means less frictional losses... Counterweight design and percentage of counterbalance. (lol) As you can see, there are many questions to answer and these are about .02% of them. Now, If you have a finished design and take it to one of these custom crankshaft companies it will most likely be cheaper than having their engineers design the crankshaft for you. But if your not an engineer well versed in rotational harmonics and vibration then good luck! Or you can school yourself... (!!!) It also helps to have some good F.E.A. programs like GTcrank (pricey) and a quick computer. OTM

You can go further with the de-stroker idea... L28 block, L20A crank, 140mm LD28 rods, and I think KA pistons. The LD rods are slightly on the beefy side (not as much as most people say) so I suppose a bit of weight could be removed from them. I just need an L20A crank now...lol Not like I'm going to build said motor but I have most of the parts.

One question I have: Will VH41 timing chain gears work on a VH45 crankshaft? Or do you have to move VH45 heads, timing chains, and other tensioning parts over to a VH41 block? I have a VH45 that I disassembled so I have seen how it all goes together and I believe that the VH41 block is superior just for packaging reasons. Also it would be nice if a stock VH45 tranny could be modified to fit the VH41 block as I have a perfectly good 120,000 mile VH45 4 speed. (I.E. cut/weld bellhousing to clear the starter)

Nobody has mentioned the CA18DET... Pick one up for a grand on Ebay with a 5 speed, install your aftermarket EFI of choice, and an instant 35-40+mpg with 175hp. Then you can do some aero stuff like lowering, narrow(stock...lol) tires, block off the front end, etc... Check out: www.ecomodder.com

The closer the throttle butterfly valve is to the back of the valve, the faster your response will be. So just as close as possible... There are tings to consider though. Where are you going to put your fuel injectors? Stock location or maybe move them to the other side of the butterfly valve.

I would have to differ... Most Z33 tranies are known to implode even with stock HP. Z32 trannies are proven to more than 400hp.

Not mine. Thought it would help somebody... http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/649494809.html

Chimera-Z

So you are going to do a 4.5mm overbore on that thing? I guess KA pistons?

I posted the same (or similar) video a while back and the thread got shedded... dunno why.

That is what I was thinking. I guess it would be better for running some other alternator though. Maybe one from a Q45 or some other big car. What if you made a tensioner that mounted in-between the water pump and the stock alternator so that the V-belt wraps around the water pump pully, thus increasing contact area between the belt and pully? Might be a decent low-buck idea for somebody...

You do not need to cut any spacers unless you cut and shorten the strut housings. So with stock length strut housings, leave the strut inserts as-is. If you do cut them the strut inserts will bounce up and down in the housing and rip themselves apart. If you mean the rubber bump stops...you can shorten them to gain a little extra travel.

I would add that one little word...lol

Indeed... I would setup some sort of rig in the rear suspension to mark overall suspension travel or setup a camera with a light back there to look at half-shaft angles while you launch from a stand still. Then tune your differential height(fabrication) or suspension height(easy) so that when you launch you are as close to no angle as possible. But what would I know... I'm just interooled turtle with a spoiler on my shell...(avatar) LOL

I would not close the door... OSHA regulations say 10,000 Ft^3 of ventilated room space per welder. I'd just build a frame out of some PVC and hang some sort of cloth to block teh light/on-lookers so that you still get ventilation... I've seen too many cases of metal fume fever and lung cancer to risk it.

More like a frankenstein freak-rod The car is no longer going to be on the road... Half getting crushed and the other half as a splice for a member here. Oh well.

I was just stacking parts on some shelving and I stacked a VH45 water pump pully on top of a L6 water pump pully... Lo and behold they have the same bolt pattern. The VH45 pully fits right over the stock pully so that you could run both of them at the same time. I am not building a supercharged L6... Just putting the idea out there. One consideration is that you are going to be limited to the amount of drag you can apply to the pully because the V-belt has less surface area... Just thought that this was interesting. It might also be a way to run a more modern alternator with some modified mounts.

Nice!!!! That was a good one!

Veritech-Z's BOV: I give you my "rat rod" Z... The car was either in flat black, all black rustoleum, or black/red two tone rustoleum over 4 years...The hybrid Z logo even has the red "Z"... I went from the above pic to ripping around the curviest roads in the SouthEast in about 18 hours... Consisting of a cylinder head rebuild(swapping valves and cam with towers from an 83 mn-47 head to the 74 E88...Ghetto I know but it worked), exhaust, Eclipse seat installation and more all in a LONG day.

You know that that car is one of the like 4 remaining ORIGINAL Daytonas... It was pulled out of a garage a few years ago and this pic was taken. LOL

You don't really need it... Electric motors can rev really high and really don't even really need a transmission. A slush bucket tranny would just require more power to the motor for the same RWHP. Upgrading to a bigger motor isn't cheap either...

Just for reference... Some of y'all may want to contact the former member; Ernie (Ala RacerX) about electric converted cars.... You can find his email if you search the web for it.

It is hard enough tearing an LD28 down on an engine stand... Also you are going to have to take the transmission out to unbolt the rear of the crankshaft from the flexplate/flywheel for removal. Might as well pull the motor.