OlderThanMe

Now THAT was funny! BRAAP, Don't get your panties all in a wad... Maybe they should be called boost plugs because Garrett keeps booosting them out of his block.

Inspiring: (not my photo...) It brings all kinds of emotions to surface, a rough life, living in poverty, dirty, needing hybridization, going fast.

If you are going to just port match the intake to the head, then make the transition as long as you possibly can into the runners. The stock intake seems to start being a restriction at around 400hp. On a 350hp engine a simple port matching should be fine. I don't think I'd worry too much about hogging out the whole intake. As Mario stated, JeffP is using a highly modified stock intake and he is making lots of power. Porting/port matching to a gasket article: http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/porting.html This can also apply to an intake manifold but in reverse for matching to a gasket. read ALL of BRAAP's posts... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108398 I sugest you check your intake gasket against your Rebello head and see what overlap there is on the intake runners. Then check against your intake manifold for the same thing. Ideally your intake gasket would line up perfectly with the intake runners on the head and on the intake when torqued together. I'd like to get an endoscope-type camera with a flexible head on it to look down inside of intakes and exhausts to see how the gaskets overlap when torqued down. (and for other diagnostic car things...) A while ago BRAAP posted about an intake/exhaust gasket for an L6 that had a metal contact surface around the intake and exhaust ports. I think they are NLA though. Dan

JGS has a 60mm wastegate for $579. http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html

1rad280, Why don't you post a picture of the combustion chamber with the problematic valve?

Ah... but was the camera taking a picture of itself? Hmm...

Dang... What is it coming to?

What I did was similar to this. You can find a nut that will fit on the head bolt, thread it on, and then fire up the MIG welder and do a sort of plug weld and weld the steel nut to the head bolt. Be sure to camp the ground to the nut or you will weld the head bolt into the block. Also turn the heat up so that you get good penetration into the head bolt as it is a little hard to weld to. The welding usually puts enough heat into the block to losen things up but if not then you can heat the block with a torch like BRAAP said and that will losen things enough for the bolt to come out. BTW... Make sure the block is stripped completely and clean...you don't want to get any spatter down in the oil pan. That would wreak havoc on the bottom end. I welded 3 head bolts to remove them and one was broken off at the surface of the block. The ones that stick up are easy peasy. Finding a new motor might be a better option though.

Dang... He had no nose when he came up...

DANG! Yeah I guess DIY is definitely the way to go. LOL A custom intake would cost less than that...

Yeah those look like the real deal and not the Hitachi copies.

Check out extrude hone: http://www.extrudehone.com/afmpro.html I think several people have done exhaust manifolds with them but you can probably get an intake done too.

Ah very true! I guess I forgot that little(big) point of 7PSI. LOL Your 240Z is one of the nicest Z's on this site with a mostly stock looking body.

Umm... Honda engines are quite efficient DOHC crossflow engines. Even still they have to rev the engine to the moon to get any decent HP numbers(even though they have NO torque). I think the biggest turbo I've seen on a 2.2 that was driven on the street is a GT42 and it had no boost until way up there around 7k+. A GT55 is bigger than what most SEMI TRUCKS use! I will not argue my point any more...

Well think for a few more seconds before you post. Just look at the compressor map of your desired turbo and them plot your engine's CFM range on it. Watch it not even make it to the surge line at 7k RPMs. Bigger is not always better. TimZ has put years of research and development into his motor. I just hope you plan on some serious modifications to be able to withstand the extreme RPMs that you will have to use to get to any amount of boost.

Fully modified... What does that mean? LOL 3.4 liter?

"rocker arm pops up and hits the cam lobe" What does that mean? The rocker arm almost always is touching the cam or within ~.010" of touching the cam... How can it "pop up" and touch the cam lobe? It makes no sense.

Nice Z! Welcome back! I knew you'd be back some day.

Phil, why does your motor make soo much more torque than Chris's built motor? That is quite interesting... 390 torque for yours and 365 for Chris... Wheel slip? Great runs!

Well I found some small sheets of 1/8" clear plastic in the house when I was clearing out a storage room. I just need to come up with something to form it over...

Wow! That is pretty cool. Its amazing how well those welds cleaned up!

Phil, At what RPMs does your meth come on? You said 14PSI but where do you hit 14PSI at in the RPM band?

Before you weld on the ZXT flange, be sure to port out the runners to the 33-35mm(varies per runner) of the LD intake so you don't have a restriction there. Looks like a fun project! Oh its already done... LOL never mind. You can still port-match it if you haven't already. OTM

Thanks Davy! The weather was really weird that day. I think it had the slight hail in the morning but that was before all the tornadoes. It only lightly rained once in the afternoon. The rest of the day was partly cloudy. The storms missed my place by about ten miles. Mind you that I am just east of Stone Mountain about 20 miles from downtown...LOL I watched the storms come over Atlanta and veer to the south or to the north of me.

Check out this photo of the tornado that ripped down through Downtown Atlanta last weekend...(left side) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF0FFU1KAm0 There was up to 4.5" hail coming down. Most of it was about 2" though when it did come down. Thankfully we only had it pea-sized...