seattlejester

Sure thing. Good luck.

I still don't think you would find much hate. You can always add those parts as needed, I think you would only find a problem with that if you said you planned on tracking-daily driving-drifting-racing in a car with a 400+hp motor and stock R180 differential and stub axles. Then a bit of caution would probably be advised just so you don't close the roads or the track when one of the wheels fall off. It would be a shame to just putt around town when it could be quite potent. Those new mustang motors have quite a bit of pick up and go. Now if you install the motor with a roll of duct tape and some wood screws, I think someone might want to have a word with you.

Not unless it is on or shorting. If the battery is old it is likely at fault. If you find the alternator is fine, and replace the battery, you can check to see if you have a drain by monitoring the load on the battery when the car is off. This is a fairly basic test. Any major autoparts store can test the alternator and battery for you. A slow or nice one may even help you find a major drain or at least be able to lend you their multimeter.

badjuju built an oversized oven with a steel cabinet and heat lamp. If you want the powder to stick it is true you really want the part fairly hot, but If it is just a thinner awkward piece you can use a heat lamp that has a high enough temp range to get the powder to run.

Put a multimeter on it. If the battery shows less then 12 volts while running then your alternator isn't charging. If the battery shows 14.7ish volts while running and you cut the power and the battery drains very quickly to below 12 volts then your battery is at fault.

Fuel cell looks good, I'm thinking of moving up to aluminum from my plastic/steel case one. 10 gallons might be a little on the small side. I know my tank was using gas at about 1% a mile with the L28 and a richer tune. It didn't hit the sender float until you had a good 3 or 4 gallons in it and I think the float topped out before the gas filled the tank, but the these guys can be thirsty.

Thanks, sure thing. I don't imagine they would be life changing, the setup I had before was quite good.

Oh I've done a couple. Not scared, just really inconvenienced. I don't have much time or room to work with, and it would be nice just to have it done. I'm not sure I'll find a shop willing to do the task though. The car would have to sit around waiting for the transmission to come back, which is why I've been looking at craigslist to see if any cheap R154's come up that I can have rebuilt. If that's the case it would just be a matter of a clutch job with just a transmission being swapped. At that point though I might consider just slipping it in myself. Basically I want the trans pulled, the rear case removed, the extended shifter housing installed, reassembled, shipped off, received, new clutch/flywheel/rms installed. I could do it over a period of a month or two, but I would also have to take apart the trans where I don't even have a table or room for one, crate up the trans, take it to a shipping carrier, be at home to receive the trans, transport it back to my car, then go about installing it. Just inconvenient. We'll see how I feel if I ever get a quote.

Very very cool. You are definitely inspiring me to go back and undo my fuel cell hackery.

I thread the coilovers about 1/2 way down, still about 2.75 inches left in threads. In theory (assuming a 2 inch drop from droop height), this should actually be pretty close to my desired ride height with plenty of adjustment left to go. I just have to adjust my fronts if this works out. Bolts arrived so I installed all of those. Makes me feel a lot better having grade 10.9 and 12.9 vs the 8.8 bolts. I tacked the spider gear in lieu of the hard stop. Axle reassembled and installed. I'm a bit concerned as the other side didn't have the return spring. Not sure what the reasoning is, but it instead had a paintcant type lid so no room for a spring at all. You can see the outboard sprung tripod joint pushing the inboard unsprung joint in via the difference in the boots. And it turns out the passenger side has a lot more room then the driver side. I'll have to double check that both sides aren't bound up by the axle, but my recollection was I had to thread the control arm out quite a bit for the driver side, where the passenger side almost seemed happy without any adjustment. Rotor and brakes installed and brakes bled. Also wanted to point out and thank Jmortenson for how kick ass the alignment is for the sway bar with the spacing on the sway bar pushed back 1/2 an inch. I chose not to use the adjustable end links as I feel like it could use quite a bit more work. The ST end links went back in without a fuss. I'll have to remake those adjustable ones. Maybe with some box section. Pretty sure I narrowed down my main oil dripping problem. The first gasket was a copper one that came installed on the motor, that one started leaking after a while. I switched to the second one which was aluminum and came with my magnetic drain plug, that one was just as bad despite the larger surface area. Looking online people on toyota forums suggested using the teflon one with the toyota FIPG. Threw that one in and at least there are no visible drops forming on the oil pan. Annoyingly there are drops forming on my transmission, especially the bell housing cover. Either a RMS, oil pan gasket, or a transmission front seal leak. That is going to have to be sorted when I find a shop that can do a clutch job. If anyone has recommendations in Washington, I would be happy to hear them. I would like to have them pull the transmission, ship it off to drift motion for rebuild and reinstall it along with a shifter re-locator, new RMS, new flywheel, and a new heavier duty clutch. Plan is to fill the car back up with oil, then confirm nothing is binding, settle the suspension, and take it in for an alignment.

Yay updates! Bummer on the clogged injectors, I wonder if it's time for a fuel cell

Oh my, RIP John. You were always a help to those in need.

That is pretty nifty. Cradle design is very clever as well.

Hmm, that may be something to look into. The IAT and the coolant definitely share the signal ground, I think TPS might as well.

As I understand it. There is a combined signal return it basically is an internal ground so that all the sensors are zeroed to the same as I understand. Your o2 sensor and coolant sensor should both share this signal ground. The other wire will go to the input as to whatever you set it. I had a discussion with a friend last week about this, but I believe yes advance timing (bringing it closer to BTDC) very slowly, once you get to a certain point you will register a ping as the flame front from the spark expands the excess pressure causes a remote detonation event elsewhere in the cylinder.

Lol I just tried to click the X in your picture to close the picture. I think that is why my tuner was suggesting the low load knock, an explosion is probably a bit more acute of a sound no? Also curious as supernova was saying, how did you wire the knock sensor? Did you run a positive and a signal return?

What is going on there with your axles? That differential looks interesting as well.

Low load as in very low rpm not much road resistance. A knock under high load high rpm will be catastrophic, a knock under low load low rpm will not be anywhere near as bad. What jacky says sounds correct, it is just a "hearing" circuit that sends a voltage once it "hears" a sound. You just have to provide the sound via a low load knock, then set the threshold for the resulting voltage, then go into megasquirt and have it wired to the correct input, (one of the spares or the IACV if you are not using it or anything else in the drop down menu) and have it control ignition. I don't think MSII is advanced enough to have bias control, but it should have some control mechanisms in the ignition/spark settings. This is as far as I know, I haven't done it, I've barely looked into it. I would suggest the megasquirt forum, they are going to want as much information as you can find, sensor ID, your MSQ etc and they will set you straight.

With MSII, I was told you can hook up a knock sensor as a input/trigger. You would have to calibrate it and set a threshold for the value, my tuner said this could be easily done on a very low load situation.

Yup, I ordered https://www.belmetric.com/8x125-coarse-c-6_339_62_956/bsh8x25-allen-head-bolt-129-p-347.html for the flange to axle adapter. Grade 12.9 I ordered https://www.belmetric.com/8mm-c-6_341_378/sb8x30-button-head-p-2231.html for the output shaft to axle. Grade 10.9

Thanks for that. JIS or Japanese Industrial Standard yielded the correct headed bolts. Also while searching I recalled that on European cars they tend to use Allen head bolts which have an outstanding grade rating (10.8-12.8). I also recalled that a forum member had problems with the bolt heads hitting the RLCA on his output flange on the differential. On close inspection it looks like I may be near the same place and encounter a similar problem, so I've ordered button head Allen bolts as well just in case it becomes a concern. I just placed an order for a butt load of bolts from belmetric. Very few bolts left to possibly replace now. They have quite a good selection.

Got the last bushing in. Should have sanded it, but after that failed I should have just cranked it down with an impact gun instead of hammering it on. Spacer on hanger installed. The resulting alignment. Very pleased that I was told to do that. Uprights finally assembled. Jumped the gun a bit and installed everything on this side. Need to go find a source for a 12mm headed M8 bolt for the axles. The 13mm head ones they sell at the hardware store has a head too large to get a wrench on. If anyone knows a source let me know please. Getting awfully close!

I guess it depends on where you are going and what you are doing. Evergreen is the closest drifting track to me, and they allow M2000+ helmets, Solo autocross also allows M2000+ helmets, I think club oversteer (basically drifting in parking lots similar to autocross, sanctioned etc) also allows the use of M2000+ helmets. Drag strips at both evergreen and pacific also allows the use of M2000+ helmets. The only one that I am seeing that really mandates a Snell rated helmet is the road coarse at pacific, I haven't done much research on the ridge, but I imagine they would also require a Snell helmet. It depends on where you are attending events. Locally a motorcycle helmet seemed to meet requirements, I figured I wanted my own helmet to get my foot in the door so I don't have to share or rent one all the events I run are essentially solo/single person on track other then karting. If you plan on traveling for track days then a Snell rated helmet is going to be better then having to rent a helmet last minute. A 300$ helmet is going to be a drop in the bucket compared to a $500 a day track day. You can also wait till you take the training course and ask your instructor when you go for your license, or ask the club that you go through if they have any recommendations.

They have a list of helmets that meet the requirements. A DOT approved motorcycle helmet is a nice affordable option, the testing is standardized and motorcycle safety testing is a little better the the automotive (I think dropped from a higher height etc). A consideration is the weight as well. A helmet is quite a bit of weight on your head. If you are lanky then a carbon or fiberglass helmet will be worth it's weight in gold for a long track day. My current helmet is an HJC. It was approved without any issue at all at the autocross I went to. They are a chinese brand, but they have DOT approved rating and videos show that even above DOT testing these helmets don't fail. The inner material is comfortable enough. At around 50-100$ you really can't go wrong. Next helmet that caught my eye is the Icon Construct, real light weight and good ratings. I tend to like the motorcycle helmets because of the air channels and my secret desire to someday try and ride a motorcycle.

The Z doesn't have a clutch dampener as far as I have seen. Clutch master cylidner is located next to the brake master. Brake master is attached to a big circular booster. Clutch master cylinder has one port that leads to the clutch slave (attached to the bell housing). Located on the driver side. Make sure the adjustments are correct if you are bleeding the mater in the car. You won't be bleeding much if your throw is incorrect, or you won't even know if it is bled properly if the throw is incorrect. You can gravity bleed as miles says, you can vacuum bleed with a power bleeder, you can pump bleed, you can reverse bleed. Power bleeders are nice and very easy to do one man and with very little worry about emptying out. You don't really need a friend or family member, really all you need is someone to pump it for you if you want to do it that way. Someone walking their dog, your neighbor, the pizza guy. I do worry if you are unfamiliar with the basic location and terms of these items if you are aware what a good bled pedal would feel like versus not etc. I think you may want to find a mentor or someone who is more familiar with cars to give you a go over? If you read the FSM you can familiarize yourself with quite a bit of the car. They are very easy to find online.