seattlejester

I'm not too familiar with points, so I can't recall what that wire does. If it is that close to catching I must reiterate what Newzed and I have mentioned above, are you lifting the pistons in the carb? If you just spray the carb you are spraying at a very very small orifice or more likely the side of the cylinder in the carb, that fuel will be used almost immediately. Have someone crank the motor and lift up the pistons and scary a liberal amount into each and see if it catches. Additionally and especially if you have messed with the spark plugs, check the firing order from the distributor cap. If that is out of order it will try to catch once in a while and basically stall itself out almost immediately. Also need a confirmation on the timing. Did you confirm the cylinder is on the compression stroke at TDC with the rotor pointing at 1?

They've come a long way, I have some strict bulbs in my daily. Cons are... Lower light output. It feels like they don't throw as far, although that may be just my lumen rating. If they are the multi LED bulb style, then you can get a short and loose some of the LED's not a huge problem, but you can see dead spots when looking at the bulb.

Hmm, yea kind of depends on how far we want to go back. Make sure the distributor is getting power with key on, and cranking, multimeter will be the key here. Values for voltage would also be nice. Also checking the general timing will be important. You mentioned that the engine tries to start, does that mean it is catching a little bit? Or just spinning very fast? Going through what I wrote down will be useful for getting in the ball park. Set crank to Top Dead Center using the indicator near the crank pulley. Check the cam through the oil cap. If you can see both lobes up, then you are on the right rotation. If the lobes are pointed down, rotate the crank a full 360. Once the cam is verified, then pull the distributor cap and verify the rotor is pointing towards the wire that leads to spark plug 1. If it is not, then you might be 180* out or the spark plug order may be off. If it is out, correct it. Either by flipping the cap, or reordering the plug wires. Another thing to check is the spark plugs themselves. Are they new? Are they gapped? Also when you sprayed with starter fluid did you make sure to lift the pistons? Or else you are just spraying a cylinder and most of it will not get near the intake tract. To check if gas is getting to the carbs, pull the return line off the fuel rail and run another line to a remote reservoir to check that you are getting fluid. I say remote because this will be pumping gas, make sure it is away from the ignition sources.

Hmm how are you verifying gas getting to the carb? I would be tempted to use starter fluid to take that out of the equation. Timing would be another question. Check that the engine is at TDC, when you open the oil fill cap you should be able to see the two cam lobes up in bunny ears, the rotor should also be pointing at cylinder number 1. If all that criteria is true, then throw on a timing light, that would also point towards if you are getting a consistent spark signal rather then grounding out coil.

That top edge is a weld, not sure grinding that down is a good idea either. Looks like some RLCA's might be in your future. Either that or stiffer springs.

When I had my STI R180 and I was quizzing my subaru friend, he did say he had a couple guys go RWD pass through the shop he worked at, but given that they did that for drifting and such, they usually ended up going with a welded setup. And given the AWD and the 50-50 torque split, although some subaru's have torque split controllers, the torque at the engine is not quite what the rear diff sees. An example given to me was a 500hp car, with 20% drivetrain loss with the AWD system brings about 200hp to the rear diff, I know that is hp, but you can imagine torque can be similar. The roadkill datsun is pushing more then your power levels through the rear, but not many miles, so you are indeed more or less one of the many guinea pigs on longevity. Ah very interesting. I didn't realize those stubs stuck out that far, I thought they would sit pretty close to the differential. Well kudos for you for taking a peak before taking everything apart, my friends favorite method for checking diffs are the figure 8 and then a quick off the ground check as chicken man suggested, granted those can be misleading with the droop involved. Looking forward to the video.

Did it ever start? I would be concerned about compression if some of the other things start to check out. I say get an inline spark tester as well. $5, no more guessing if the spark is firing or not. Some pictures would be nice, especially of the ballast resistor and the coil on top of the rotor, cap, and spark order.

I too am worried that may be too much hp. I've read a couple of those builds, and it seems like they either go through a couple of diffs/have an aftermarket stronger differential/or have a gradual boost/boost by gear type of setup.

...What? Like move the input shaft of the transmission closer so that you don't have to run a custom thickness flywheel and use a stock flywheel? Or are you thinking if you don't run the adapter plate it will put it at a close enough distance that you don't have to run a custom flywheel? What are you going to do about a starter? Can you weld cast aluminum? Can you find anywhere that can weld cast aluminum? How are you going to get the bolt pattern to match up without an adapter plate? You are asking for an absolute ton of headache. You would have to first off cut a massive hole in your bell housing to get values of distance and thickness. After you get all those values you would throw that bell housing away. Then you would get another bell housing and cut it at the right distance that the input shaft is close enough to engage the stock pilot bushing. Then you would have to cut a native bell housing and weld on the bell housing half from the Z32 so that you don't have to run an adapter plate. Making sure that the weld will be enough to hold up the transmission and to not crack or twist with the load transferred from the gears. The mating surfaces on the bell housings would have to happen to line up and the surfaces would have to be chamfered for a good weld and you would have to plane the surfaces after welding to account for warpage from putting that much heat into welding something that is essentially a massive heat sink. This is a very bad idea. I don't know your plans, but no you don't need to an LOJ kit, just get a T56 transmission.

Back to your point, it depends on the individual. New zed makes a really good point about resale, but for now it depends on how you are going to enjoy it. If you are looking for a pristine survivor body, those are going to be relatively difficult to find. If it bothers you, you could look out for a parts car to chop the nose off of and do a complete replacement. Or you can patch it up, bend things back with a hammer, drill holes and re-spot weld. Personally, when I was told of my damage, it was freeing in a way. Basically meant my car was not a survivor, and would not be worth tons of money in the future, kind of reaffirmed that I was on the right path to do with it as I pleased. If you are asking if it is worth fixing, kind of up to you and your abilities, if you have to farm it out it is going to cost you more then finding a better condition shell will be. If you do it yourself, you are going to sink a lot of man hours into it not to mention money. Depends on your timeline, resources, etc.

Just saw this picture on speed hunters. Looking at alternatives at the moment to the stock hood latch, thought some others in the same boat could use the idea. Looks real clean, looks like spot welds drilled out, latch mechanism moved over, and bolted in place.

^That is pretty unwise. If you have a gas strut and someone used oil in the shock you essentially have an explosion waiting to happen. If it is a traditional oil strut, not that big a concern, but you will make a much bigger mess.

Where was the strap mounted to? A custom bracket? Or an existing location?

Not too many shops here are still familiar with carbs, especially side draft carbs.

Congrats! Sounds great!

Don't just lean it out per say, that is not a good idea. The mixture screws control the entire range, so leaning them out too much on the bottom can make the car run really lean on the top end. You can follow john's advice and do the base procedure as in the FSM to get you a factory baseline. Once you get an AFR setup you can play around with it till it feels right.

I think drift boss in the toyota section is running these if you go through his thread you can find his pictures.

Would you happen to have a sound bite? I absolutely love a good super charger whine, granted living with it would probably get quite tiresome I imagine.

Ohlins makes really good shocks, that graphs is a bit skewed in the powertrix camp, but if it compares that well that is saying something. The inverted shock could also be a nice touch if the shock is quality. The lack of holes for the camber plate is a bit strange, I guess they want to leave the option of welding it in the car a possibility. On the flips side, calling a it a dampener is a bit newish for a shock manufacturer I think.

Those pre-flared lines are kind of hard to work with, and very easy to kink. Probably won't find a T with metric inputs either, which means you will need to either convert at one end or buy a couple adapters, For a price comparison I think to convert to metric I think the fittings was almost 10$ a side, that means 30$ per tee vs 5$ a couple 3/8-24 fittings. You can buy a roll of cunifer line from auto zone for ~40$ for a roll and have enough to do most of the car.

Have you checked your idle speed and mixture? Are the carbs balanced? Are they factory carbs? Are you running a lot of choke? Lots of questions there. Sounds like it needs a tune up if it otherwise runs fine. Probably need to change the plugs and lean out the mixture screws so it doesn't bog while sitting. If you can get an AFR gauge you can set it so that the car idles above about 10AFR, below that is when it starts to stumble and choke on itself.

Cam towers are marked from the factory, they have little indicators on the side with squares noting the number they are. I have heard the same thing everywhere, but I've also heard evidence to the opposite. As long as the cam rotates nicely without grabbing anything and you make an effort to put them in where they were you should be ok.

I'm going to have to review, but my understanding is the distributor is essentially stand alone of the ECM, the ECM controls the fuel and as you are running a carb, the ECM is redundant in its control of the engine. Is it still in the car? I might be missing something, but I don't think it is controlling anything. The Bee-r rev limiter is an ignition cut, so it could be wired to your distributor as long as the tach signal was compatible and it can determine when to cut the ignition wire to act as a rev-limiter. I've seen some distributor driven S13's run them, but can't give you a positive answer.

I did it for the additional camber adjustment and potential track width widening. The tension arm was a nice bonus as well.

You might have a bit more compliance with a regular ball joint over a race ball joint. You could also run a standard style tension arm. I'm not sure how much the race ball joint will cost to replace, or if they need to be replaced, but that could be a factor. Wheel size can also be a concern. If you want to run stock or around there, this one is going to be real close depending on what you are running in regards to bumpsteer spacing. I have about 1/2 an inch from the wheel on mine with 15 inch wheels, the standard style ones may be able to accomodate a smaller rim just based on the fact it doesn't have material right under the ball joint. Frankly it seems they may have addressed some concerns that may have made the regular style arm more appealing over the gtx-2 arms, that is what pushed me over to buying them after all.