seattlejester

^Update your thread! You last left us with a running video then a dead VEMS unit. Tony, what are you running for the rear end? Any problems? I'm constantly worried I'll rip apart one of my stub axles one of these days.

Me three! Looks real good sir

It acts as a stop for the throttle body plate if memory serves, it has a fitting for what I assume is a either a vacuum or pressure source and a ram that that controls the position or stop point of the throttle. I don't use mine, but I'm not very stock anymore. If you are stock and using stock equipment I wouldn't see why you would forgo it other then laziness or simplification. This no longer retains to the wiring issues as your title states, maybe a generic build thread is in order where you can ask questions such as this.

The SC300 available here had a 2jz i think. I am not sure you would be so lucky to have all the wires match up. You can see if the SC300 shares the same part number but that's really unlikely. Pull out some ECU pinouts and find out what you need. Takes less then an hour, and a motor doesn't need a lot to run actually.

I'd get in touch with the PO and hope that he still has the original vin for that 280 recorded and go to the DMV and get it straightened out right away.

Michael Wales I believe is doing this exact same setup for the same reasons. He would be the one to ask once he gets it sorted. Your reasons that you list can be achieved by any modern system you mention SDS, megasquirt, etc. Acceleration enrichment, auto tune, and ignition control. The intake is usually not the air restriction as it is the head I believe that has poor flow. So other then the reason for being uniqueish as in Atomic EFI on TBI on a Z, not TBI on a Z which as tony states has been around for a long while, there is no huge benefit to running this especially once costs are factored in.

Unless you plan on swapping the entire harness for an uncut one, or find a fuse box with a pigtail that you can connect back to it (which would give you a ton of fuses and relays that you actually won't be using) your option is as dexter says and going for a generic fuse panel and possibly relay combo. Find the wires you need for the swap (switched power, main power, fuel pump etc) and wire it up to control each of those. Your alternative option is to order a new harness or a modified harness, I believe the seller of swap harnesses made a post couple of threads down.

PM me sir, I don't have much planned.

It is curious at which point what vin do you run. Either the firewall was transplanted into the later Z or the floor and radiator support was transplanted into the earlier one. The later is more likely, but seems like a lot of trouble and given the factory looking sound deadening in the floor also seems unlikely. A peak underneath the taillight garnish will also assist in assessing what the chassis actually is. Yes and do be careful. If you sell this as a low vin 240z and it is in fact just a vin transplant onto a later better condition car, you are going to be in a world of hurt. A "I don't or didn't know" is not going to save you as you made factual statements of the identity of the car which can be refuted. To answer the question, it really depends, shell wise and external body condition wise it is definitely worth more then 3k, probably in the 5k range depending on the quality of paint etc. The rest is quite variable, what engine is it running, suspension, upgrades, etc. The wonky identity really can break the deal though especially for insurance purposes.

Hmm, well just off the bat you are going to have a little problem in the fact the 82/83 zx turbo have a trigger wheel in the distributor and I think the 81 has a toothed crank wheel (or it might be the other way around). Unfortunately the thing is you are going to have to search more. Not necessarily just for what goes where, but how to find the wires you are looking for. Switched power can be easily found with a test light or a multimeter and the key in the on position. The wire should have 0 volts when key is off and 12-14 volts when key is on. Depending on what you are using the switched power for you have to make sure that it also stays on during cranking as well. Once you find it you can run a relay board using the switched power as a signal and run new wire to power whatever you need switched power for. If you have a high enough amperage relay you can split the output power and run a fuse box in-between and use the fuse box as a distribution block. I believe the plug mismatch comes from the difference between the 81 and the 82 cars. I'm in the area if you need help. Granted I am only familiar with the swap, so I would be doing the same thing you would be doing which is searching for wiring diagrams and comparing.

I would just plumb a new relay in place since you don't need the EFI relay to power the injectors or anything else. Follow the wiring diagram, you have 4 wires you need, a power, a ground, a signal, and an out for a new generic relay. The power comes from the battery (70), the ground either goes to chassis or back to battery (72), signal comes from the ignition switch (71), and your output goes to the power side of the fuel pump. You want your fuel pump connected to the ignition, so when you shut it off or when the car shuts off it kills the fuel. Why might that matter? Say if you get into an accident and the fuel line burst, if you have the fuel pump on a separate circuit, even though the engine has killed itself or stopped running, your fuel pump will continue to run and pour gasoline over everything. A real hazard. Regarding your fuel pump. That setup is not the worst you can do, but as I mentioned it is no where near ideal. You do have a bypass regulator which is good in that it doesn't hold the fuel hostage thus you won't blow fuses or heat up the power wire. Bad news is what I originally state though, your fuel pump will achieve the 4 PSI very easily, which means all the fuel will essentially be bypassed. That means the fuel pump will be running without resistance at almost full speed. This will kill the fuel pump. If you want to wait till it happens and have AAA then not a big deal.

Took a look at it this weekend. I was so concerned it was coming from the transmission tunnel, it was a fairly loud rattle. But when I popped the hood the noise was not as apparent. I let the car warm up and took a listen and I think I found the culprit. It was the fuel feed line bouncing off the fuel pressure regulator on the return line. Some witness marks indicated the noise from the scarring on the AN fitting. Thought is that after the engine warms up a bit the engine mounts become a bit more pliable. And the rocking moves the regulator just close enough to the return line to rattle as the engine settles. Wasn't able to replicate the noise after I secured the line so either it needs a drive to make the mounts even more pliable or the noise is gone for now.

Well glad you got it started. Timing would be the next thing to check, but from your post it seemed like you were potentially not getting spark or fuel. Most people run low pressure high volume pumps for carbs. Right now you have a mid volume high pressure pump. Regulating it down will get you the fuel pressure you need, but the pump and it's impeller aren't designed to be pushing all the fuel that rapidly (if you have the correct style of regulator it will bypass all the fuel back into the tank) so in essence your pump will be running at full speed all the time. This of course depends on the location of your regulator. Have a syncrometer? That shouldn't be too bad to adjust. I think I have mine sitting around still. I really am not sure removing the ignition switch is the right idea, but if that is how you are going to run it, the wiring diagram is in the atlanticz link you posted. Basically you have the on/off switch connect all the circuits (fuel/ignition) and the momentary just powers the starter. Edit: My little foray into the starter button realm this is of course for a 240z but the concepts in the thread should be similar. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112800-diy-budget-start-button/

Once again pushrod for me is sky is no limit with a large budget to throw away on R&D to find out what really works. Regarding what suspension, it really is up to you. If you do indeed do a full tube frame you can fit a variety of suspension. Post drive shaft you can have a custom drive shaft made to adapt to any rear subframe of any FR RWD car pretty much. Given the V8 in the front, it would probably be advisable to start with a v8 based car at least in the axles/diff. The suspension really is up to you. There is a mantra and rule we stick to on hybridz, there is no best. Most people lean towards what they are familiar with or what left them with that great handling feel. It will take quite the experience for most of us average guys to really justify the effort and time to swap in a completely new setup compared to a well setup stock setup.

There are 4 or 5 datsuns that come to mind similar to what you are building. Definitely take a look at aardvark, I think you will find some insight into the whole deal. That is kind of what I figured you were going for, except probably with working doors and such. Once you go full tube frame chassis the world is your oyster. The only dimension is indeed wheel base as well as suspension height/pickup points for your donor. On a sky is your limit setup a pushrod setup with inboard shocks would be pretty neat, keep all the weight inline with the center and you could make a variety of adjustments. For ease of construction maybe the double wishbone from an SC300/400 or a C5/C6 vette. In fact stealing the components off of a vette would make this much easier if you could find a trashed one for cheap. The whole story then comes down to is it worth building this car when you can easily buy an LS vette for probably less time and money lol.

Yes please look for a new pump. If I read your statement correctly, you have the regulator in line to the carbs? If so you are killing your pump, I expect the fuel pump wire to be quite warm. It is true, by adding the carbs you don't "need" the EFI harness as in the injector portion as you now have a metered fuel system. However you still need to make you get fuel to the carbs and power to the coil or else you won't have a running car. Wiring isn't that bad, especially on a car. If you have a decent multimeter (even the digital one from harbor freight is good enough) you can map out where the wires go and what they do. Just unplugging things or plugging them in without knowing what they do is not the best idea. Take your time see what wires the early Z with carbs uses and what wires your car is wired with and subtract all the wires you don't need. The remaining ones are the ones you need. There will be differences in that you don't need the 6 volt resistor and that you have electronic ignition most likely.

Sounds like you guys are rolling! I have kumho 225's and I could get them loose into 4th in the rain, I haven't tried to break them too loose in the dry, but some serious traction issues present even at stock levels. Now I have the boost controller installed so whole new story there. 7m brothers unite .

We have safety inspections here for a couple of circumstances. Not annual, but cars that are out of the system and needed to be added back in, cars that are built from scratch/kits, and cars deemed unroadworthy by a state trooper. They can be as simple as a simple inspection (glass, lights, basic equipment), or it can be complex like putting it on a lift and inspecting welds and such depending on the inspector. I think it is just quite a bit of effort to restore the car then modify it to accept the drive train. Yes we have seen much much worse, but if the fab skills are there to repair it and there is confidence in the chassis construction a tube frame would probably be faster and easier to work on (all clean new steel). As phantom said, with a tube frame chassis the world is your oyster you can run any front suspension you want and you have a nice selection fro the rear. You don't have any height restriction or any angles to worry about. That might be me projecting a pipe dream though. I would love to play around with a tube frame chassis with a subaru flat engine powering the rear wheels.

That would not be a good body. I think you may be thinking the panels are good, but that uni-body is pretty far gone. I don't think you will find many purist here, and especially with one so far gone, I doubt there is much outcry. A tube chassis with some of the panels on would be pretty neat. Although at that point it is going to be a pain to pass any type of certification to drive it on the road. If it is a track toy then might as well go with a full tube frame chassis with custom pickup points for whatever type of driveline/suspension you want to throw in it and then buy some fiberglass parts and graft on the rear fender and such. Much like project aardvark or the twin turbo z build on this forum (can not remember the builders name mark?)

Thoughts. 1650 is a lot although not terrible seeing as how it includes the driveshaft. With shipping to the UK and tariffs I think it will not be worth it. You will have to find a shop for the transmission receiver for the body which means that they would be welding the car, which means they could turn out a mount kit for you probably for much less. My local shop made my bolt in transmission cross member for 300$, I made my own engine mounts for less then 50$ in material although I kept the stock datsun cross member, the beta motorsports style cross member could be relatively easily fabricated at any competent shop. A 240z diff will not handle the power for very long, although the failure I believe goes from axles, to half shafts, then to diff. At stock power levels you could probably run the R180 if that is what the cars over there came with. Although you will be doing the "one wheel peel"

You really shouldn't be using an EFI pump with a carb'd setup SU's take 2-4 psi if I remember correctly. If you remove power from the relay then the relay won't trigger, then the car won't start. You need to wire up the coil and fuel to get power when the ignition is on. If you just pulled the wiring, then it is pretty silly to expect the car to start. You need to wire the relay so that the starter, fuel pump, and ignition all get power in the ignition and the start. Pull up the wiring diagram and take a look. Your description is not sufficient to go off of. If you just want the car to start to see if it will, wire up the fuel pump and the coil to constant on and pulse the starter with the screw driver until the car starts. Although I think with your current fuel pump you are either going to flood your carbs or burn out the pump unless it is a bypass style FPR

Blurry picture The lowest line is the exhaust Interior shot

Hmm with a 1.5 you might be able to leave all of it beneath the floor. I think my rail was 2 x 3 and it sticks into the cabin half an inch to an inch and is flush with the lowest point on the body.

That's what I figured or maybe binding during start up or something or more noise during initial clutch contact. I'm just going to slow my brain down and go with the stethoscope and find the sound before I jump to conclusions glad to see no one is telling me that it is a definitive indication of something.

Isn't as apparent when cold, I usually don't pull the car out till warm, but I don't hear it in the same RPM range when cold. I was thinking the old screwdriver trick. I'll give it a shot. My worry was that it was a tell tale sign of a loosening flywheel or something that I'm not particularly experienced with that someone might see and recognize right away. I'm leaning towards something loose maybe the exhaust or a fuel/brake line, it just is a circus act to try and rev the engine and then search for rattling components. I'll have to recruit a friend, but I thought I could use my virtual ones till then.