seattlejester

Oh I cringe to ask lol. Wheel really is centered pretty well. I left a bit of a gap just in case the mount for the hall sensor flexes a bit. I will measure the gap but I want to say maybe 1mm between the tooth edge and the sensor. I haven't gone back since Monday, hopefully some time will be put in this weekend. Definitely need to rig up an exhaust of some sort, cabin gets awfully fumey with the exhaust dumping next to the transmission at the moment.

You don't need a tube chassis to run the 400hp power level. Making sure your chassis doesn't have any structural damage and some bracing in the right areas will be enough for that kind of power as long as you aren't launching with drag radials. I highly suggest looking at the sticky'd thread on the top of this forum. As Avernier has done, it outlines for a 3 day swap to get the motor in the car. Cheapest way will be to find a donor vehicle. You can confirm everything works and runs. There was a mk3 supra for sale on my local craigslist with a built jz motor, but wrecked body/interior going for 1500$ when I started my swap. If I didn't have an engine already, that would have made things a breeze I imagine. If you can confirm the motor runs, the only thing you need to feed it is coolant and fuel and make sure the exhaust exit's in a reasonable manner. After that it is just a matter of mounting it in the car and getting the power to the rear. I've done the buying parts when you can, saving up for big pieces thing during college. Worked weekends to save up and all that jazz. Short of gas becoming illegal to use or some crazy new law, it would have been much better if I had just saved up. There were quite a few deals that came up where I didn't have the money because I was throwing all the money I had into tools and parts. Knowing what I know now, maybe 3k to get a stock motor in if you can find a good deal. Minimum parts list for stockish levels of power: Drive shaft 300$ Motor mounts 200-500$ Trans mount 100$ Engine 1000-3000$ (7m-imported 2jz) Transmission 250-5000$ (w58-getrag) ECU (stock) Harness (stock) Coolant hoses 50$ Fuel lines and fittings 100$ Gauges (use stock gauge cluster from supra) You would max out on the stock datsun equipment pretty quick though. That would necessitate newer fuel pump, bigger lines, then if you up the power, you would have to look at the half shafts, axles, differential, brakes, suspension, it just kind of snowballs the more power you want to go for.

Yes, actually quite a bit down there it looks like. Either I need to remount the sensor so that it is even closer, or adjust the pots to increase the voltages threshold and lower the noise threshold. This may seem really simple and I apologize, but to adjust the pots, do you put them back to 0 each time? As in go counter clockwise 5 turns to 0 it out before making an adjustment? Data log is from the same day, I just didn't get a chance to upload it till yesterday. From what I can see, it is not picking up a good teeth read till the very end of the running data log, which makes me believe that you are on the money regarding the reading of the extra teeth. Also to note (if I am reading it correctly) is that the AFR stays at a perfectly consistent 14.7ish and does not seem to fluctuate at all, so that may need some revisiting.

Thanks, I am really hoping no more leaks spring up or other gremlins pop out. That makes sense, I was wondering why the forum wouldn't let me upload the raw files. I am glad to move away from the cam sensor as well. I was reading up to 10* of difference reported at higher rpm on a miata.

Dude, peace man. Not saying there's anything wrong with the way you did it, in fact I am all for doing everything on a budget, my car is built on ebay, craigslist bargains, and harbor freight, but your build was time and skill intensive. There's value there. If you don't value your time and skills you have learned, then your doing something wrong. To get all the parts, register for different forums, research, go to the auto parts store, browse craigslist, look up how to and make your own mounts, there's value in the time you spent there. Throw the exact same parts and tools at someone else, and they probably wouldn't be able to make heads or tails of it. Not saying you need to go around charging everybody 80$ an hour for helping them out, but there is value that you aren't accounting for. Easy example is to order the R154 clutch slave from drift motion. Oreiley has the wrong part number to the correct image and cannot get the right part in washington state. Location also becomes a huge factor in cost as well. When I was looking for machine work the closest shop wanted 1200$ to do basic machining on my motor. I walked into a machine shop quite a bit out of the ways and they wanted 300$ to do the same machine work, I've heard out in mississippi and alabama, the same services go for maybe 150$, huge difference in price based solely on location. And please don't group my opinions as a reflection of the whole forum, it's just my personal opinion and shouldn't be representative of the whole forum. I tend to be cautious and tend to want to do things cautiously. I don't know the people who ask for advice, they can be a master mechanic with a lift and full fab capabilities, or it can be your average joe with harbor freight tools and an internet connection. If you tell someone two grand to do a full engine swap, and they start pulling apart their car the moment they hit two grand, most people are not going to be able to finish. If you tell someone 10-15k, it shock checks them, and makes them really think about what they want/afford. A large proportion of people who are thinking about 2jz or rb26 swaps are considering rather large expectations. I would rather have them enjoy the chassis and what it has to offer, then to spend every dime they have and then sell it on as an incomplete project.

^But you had your own tools, connections for parts, welder, etc. I agree, I think getting the motor into the car and the mounts fabbed up was about a 3 day process and if it was running prior to being pulled I'm sure it wouldn't have taken much longer, but to your average guy it's going to take quite a while or loads of money. I think it would be better to err on the side of caution. I mean if I drove a 240z to your house and handed you 2k and expected to drive away in three days with a running 1jz swap, I doubt you would be interested.

You pretty much need all of the things on the list to have a fully functioning vehicle with room to grow. If you were desperate to get the engine in the car in stock trim, you could find a donor car and use all stock components and just have aftermarket fuel lines, custom exhaust, and custom mounts. From what I've seen on craigslist that can be 3k for a running driving mk3 supra to 7-10k for a running but bad condition mk4. Mk3 supra's with swaps occupy around the 5-7k mark. Just know, that if you are aiming for a budget swap, and planning on asking your friend for most of the help, you are going to run into a lot of problems. Coordinating schedules, work space, parts runs, etc. The worst part by far was having to purchase all the small things that weren't on the main list for my swap. I have 200 hours into my swap so far and probably over 7k into just the motor swap so far, quite a bit more is sunk into the actual car. If you are still in school and don't have the suggested 15k, it may be better to slowly fix things on the car in prep for the swap, instead of grafting in a new heart into a tired chassis. Alternatively, you can buy a supra, build it up a bit, and when you have the time, money, and space, shove it into the datsun, you will be familiar with the motor and it should be overall an easier task.

msq: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21hrliT9P7pTWp3ZTFueWJ1VEE/edit?usp=sharing datalogs: stumbling https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21hrliT9P7pT2g3cmtsRU9hYjQ/edit?usp=sharing running for a few seconds https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21hrliT9P7pQXhUd0xhR0RGNEU/edit?usp=sharing Looks to me that it isn't counting the teeth correctly till the end, so definitely need some fine tuning there.

Your wish is my command. ^click for video. Big shoutout to the guys in the EMS section, they've been a big help in looking over my settings. Need to hook up the plumbing and make sure all my gauges are outputting (I suspect AFR and oil pressure are being unfaithful). The weather is getting nicer and I hate being the repetitive guy, but I am almost there. Definitely would love to check out your car with the new ignition setup! Hopefully final push this weekend to get the crank and run settings dialed in.

Yes, that is correct. I see at approximately 6 btdc when it was set to 6 btdc, and then a spark further along past the mark intermittently. That makes sense that the extra light is from detection of "extra teeth." So I would adjust the noise threshold (center pot) until it stopped reading the noise at the ATDC point. The log should clear things up, I want to say it looked pretty noisy till it was running for a bit. I wish I uploaded it last night. Will have to wait till I get home. Just a bit at the tip makes sense for sealing the sending unit. I was thinking maybe the rubber compound that goes between the threads may be better, but as long as it is grounding and not leaking it shouldn't be a problem. I'll have to test continuity and then maybe pull the sending unit to reseal it. Thanks, almost there I hope. Edit: Yes sorry should have mentioned it is a video. It definitely doesn't sound clean, I need to wait till I can get a helper to give me a hand while I try to time the car, if it is picking up extra teeth and injecting fuel or running spark inconsistently the misfires wouldn't be surprising at all. The wires still really need some addressing and maybe some discreet split tube covering, it's a mess right now .

Dude that is very very cool, sounds great!

Good news! Turning down the pulse width definitely helped, the engine would barely stumble with clear mode on meaning there was minimal excess fuel. I uprated the fuse to a 30 amp for the coils, added two quarts of oil, turned down cranking dwell and pulse width. I tried timing the motor by making a coil from the tach output on coil one and I was seeing something I don't quite understand. It was actuating the timing light at ~5 btdc (it was set at 6, after confirming I moved it back to 12 btdc) and maybe about 30 or 40 after tdc. It's a wasted spark setup so I would imagine it should be 180 out from the btdc reading, but not that close. I ran a composite log I will upload later in the evening. I have a feeling that the AFR was not reading anything, will have to take a look at my LC-1. My aftermarket oil pressure gauge was showing 0, so I quickly shut the motor off after it got going. I suspect the sensor may be having a hard time grounding to the block with the sealer around the threads. How do you seal something without using thread sealant? Not much space or a surface for an o-ring where the sender sits. Thanks for the help guys.

I appreciate the concern, but it pretty much is balanced. 4 bolts 90 degrees apart, balanced trigger wheel, same hardware. It's harder to get more balanced then that I imagine. I've seen very similar setups on other supra's some don't even have the balancing hole in the trigger wheel and I haven't seen any future posts by the users stating problems. With that said, I would be a fool to not keep an eye on it. There it is with the hall effect sensor mounted. I've been getting some signs of life! There are a few people helping me out in the EMS section. They are helping me work out my wonky settings, but I did get it to run for a second. Megasquirt does pickup the hall effect sensor signal much more easily, it reads consistently down do ~40-60 rpm. Will be going back today hopefully with a spark plug wire to use with my timing light and hopefully figure out when the spark is actually lighting off as well as reducing my pulse width for the injectors so I don't foul the plugs. Pretty exciting stuff .

Do you mean sag? The only way to really get rid of it with your given setup, without getting adjustable height suspension, would be to buy an aftermarket or stock spring and cut away at the fronts or add a rubber cushion in the rear to raise it up. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/ ^There's an example of how to even out your springs using a little thought. Alternatively you can experiment with using a 240z top hat up front for the lower height.

Actually it was suggested to run it up to 10ms on cranking, but I can turn that value down a bit, I don't personally think the longer duration helps any after a certain point. The fuse is blowing after the engine leaves cranking mode (when the engine catches) which should be down to 3ms dwell with 1ms spark duration, turning that value down more does make me worry about idle quality. I've checked continuity with the ground wire and the coil plugs and didn't find any shorts. If there were shorts I would expect it to short out when I start cranking not when the engine tries to catch. Should have some news tomorrow as long as work doesn't run late. Thanks for taking a look guys.

Thanks for the response metro. I'll give the priming pulse an edit and see how it likes it. I had a conservative one earlier, but after reading on a corolla forum, it was suggested to run those high values to help with startup. They went all the way to 40 pulsewidth near freezing I think, and I thought that was way too much so I moved the curve down a bit, but given how rich it seems right now I believe I can try the lower settings as suggested. 2ms at running, 6ms at 10*, filling in the rest with linear steps? Mechanically the crank and head is set at correct timing, and I checked the wheel mark to 8 teeth after the missing tooth at the sensor at TDC. I did try with my timing light to read off of the trigger signal for the first coil, but it wouldn't trigger the light. I just found an article this evening suggesting that you run a regular spark wire from the coil pack to the spark plug and read off of that wire so I will give that a shot tomorrow. Propane torch is indeed what we were using to clean the spark plugs. Currently they have been cleaned so I will adjust the settings before checking cranking timing. Yes, stock they are low impedance injectors. I was misinformed and told a resistor box would be required for my install so I went ahead and installed the factory one (did not realize that megasquirt can run low impedance) so I am running high impedance settings with the resistor box installed. Once things get running I may play around with low impedance settings. So current plan of action: Rig up spark plug wire to coil on plug to get timing light Adjust cranking pulse width quite a ways downward Crank Confirm timing Adjust timing offset Start datalog Crank

So good news is that we got my car to run! Bad news is only for a second. Either the timing or fuel pulse width or something is off. Friend came over to crank while I tried to time. For some reason the gun is not firing when wrapped around the trigger wire. Maybe because it is a cheap one. Just found out that you put an old spark plug wire and use that in-between the coil on plug and the spark plug to pick up a signal o.O, will have to go back tomorrow and give that a try. We were getting some popping from the intake so we shortened the crank advance down until it started catching more readily. The engine now stumbles with regularity, sometime stalls and with a bit of throttle even tries to run a bit. The two problems now other than going off of mechanical timing are that the coil on plug fuse seems to burn out pretty quickly. It's a 20 amp fuse and I am afraid that if I step it up it may harm something. Right now, the fuse is blowing whenever the car tries to start. Second, it seems like the plugs are getting fouled. When pulled they come out pretty wet. I'm pretty sure all of this is connected. Perhaps the plugs getting fouled causes the coils to work harder popping the fuse. So either less fuel (lower pulsewdith) or more amps (bigger fuse) iI' nto the coils to burn through the carbon. I lowered the pulse width which is why it looks a little funny on the cranking setting. With the TPS at 90% (flood clear turned on) the engine would actually stumble for a bit which indicates that maybe too much fuel is making it in. MSQ below https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21hrliT9P7pdlhOUE1PdEh2LVU/edit?usp=sharing I'm kind of going off of a few sources for the settings, so if anyone sees anything wrong please give point it out. Maybe screen shots would be easier. Screen shots of main settings below

Holy crap! I just moved the Hall effect sensor a little closer and I just saw sparks and exhaust fumes under my transmission tunnel!

Currently at my car. So I pulled the plugs and they don't appear to be wet. I did inject some fuel using the test mode and using the spark test mode I heard a "woosh" so that makes me think the spark and fuel are working. I must have some setting off by a bit I really can't figure out what it would be though.

Thanks for taking a look. I have a 7mgte with late model COP's. I've tried to piece together the information from a few sources corolla, mr2, supra. There aren't too many people I've found with my setup. TPS works, and if it doesn't turn over after a few seconds I can flood clear for a few. I will pull out the plugs today after cranking and see if they are wet. As long as it isn't something glaring, that gives me hope.

So hall effect sensor is working quite a bit better. RPM signal is a lot more consistent. I swear I can hear the motor catching once in a while, but still nothing promising yet. I've increased pulse width of the injectors increased the duration of the coils while cranking, but still no dice Current msq https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21hrliT9P7pbUF2b2NFYnRtZ1U/edit?usp=sharing Tooth logs and composite log https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21hrliT9P7pUmNORXlwcUJGc3M/edit?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B21hrliT9P7pSmZZRm1kSjEtYjg/edit?usp=sharing

May I ask, why the fiberglass? I thought fiber was a cheap way to make the floors hold shape when they are rusted through, and you put in so much effort repairing them.

You can push a small fuel line quite a bit by ramping up the pressure, but that will put quite a bit of strain on the pump. I think a good rule to follow is the funnel rule. Give as much access to fuel as is reasonable. If you have an in tank pump, make sure that it won't starve. If you have an external pump, feed it with the same size fitting on the fuel cell. I think most fuel cells come with a -8, so going any bigger would be a bit silly. If the line is bigger, yes you would technically have more fuel to use before the line is empty, but it would have to draw the extra volume from the smallest restriction to fill up the line. With that said if you are thinking AN6 and have AN8 fittings on your fuel cell I would say to size your lines bigger than you may need (if you have any considerations of maxing out the flow characteristics of AN6). Replacing a fuel pump or a regulator can be easy, but depending on how you route your lines replacing the lines may be quite tedious or difficult. So size one step bigger then you think you will max out at within reason. If you have aspirations for 1000 hp, but realistically only 400 for the next couple years, don't get AN10 or 12, by the time you will need bigger fuel lines you are going to have to address a lot of things with the drive line so it will have to be removed anyway. The consensus was AN6 was good for 500hp on pump gas with reasonable fuel pressure levels from casual browsing. I'm shooting for 300hp, but my fuel pump had AN6 input and output as did my regulator, so I just used AN6. If I ever get close to 500hp, I will probably change my feed line to AN8 to the fuel pump since my cell has -8 outputs, but the AN6 lines should be up for the task of my high end goal (this is also the limit of my cooling, intercooler, and stock internals).

Now there is merit to running a bigger return, but only if you are using really really thin lines with more than factory rated pressures. Once you pass the minimum restriction sizing for the pump, return hose line size doesn't really matter. On quite a few high hp turbo cars with aftermarket regulators you actually have a boost reference to the fuel pressure regulator, so the regulator only builds up excess pressure when you are in boost and using more fuel (the increased pressure helps compensate for the extra fuel), so running a larger return then the feed would not serve the purpose of preventing back pressure in the return line. When you have over stock levels of required fuel pressure you are using more than stock levels of fuel so it is a zero sum kind of situation. The pressure in the intake manifold is pushing back on the fuel in the fuel injectors so you need the additional pressure to pump the fluid into the intake, the pressure behind the fuel is overall the same. Most mid range regulators are AN6 size. Running a bigger hose is not going to do much good when the exit port is still restricted to a 6AN fitting. It's like hydraulics, doesn't matter where the restriction is released, once the line is filled with incompressible fluid the pressure is the same. Whether the pressure is released right after the regulator or at the fuel cell it shouldn't really matter. If longevity of the fuel pump is your game, it would be better spent trying to design your fuel system so the fuel doesn't take any slopes to the fuel rail and that your fuel pump is supplied with a steady column of fuel (mounted below the fuel line in the tank or as close to the level if not lower than the sump). I mean this is all from thought, in practice magical things may happen, but theory and practice says otherwise.

Yea the ceramic elements in my heater are two little bars about an inch or two wide so I doubt it will be getting too hot, and they will be pointed towards the glass and the rest of the heater doesn't get even warm so I'm not too worried at all. The built in fans are probably going to be more useful then the little heating element. We get maybe a few days of snow a year and it's generally around 40-60 most of the year and 70-100 in the summer, so not too concerned. I have a daily so no plans on driving when it's uncomfortably cold. My new alternator is 140 amps so it can handle quite a bit of load . I'm not the first to take advantage of stock holes, why do more work then necessary? Honestly I think the pulley is just a pulley, not a harmonic dampener like in american cars. I know the toyota pulley is balanced from the factory, but I don't think a couple grams here or there will make a difference with the rubber dampener in place Plus the trigger wheel itself is balanced, and similar hardware was used. If it turns out it does end up making a weird vibration or something, I can always add some steel putty into the spacers to make them of similar weight. I do plan on finding another pulley and maybe welding the new wheel on if this turns out to be long term.