seattlejester

Not sure what you are asking exactly. If you are 0 on the crank then your mechanical timing is at 0. Cam looks to be in the right position via bunny ears. Usually the distributor is checked with the rotor off and a screw driver is used to align it, but if it is pointing at spark 1 then it should be correct. Do you mean the mechanical timing of the crank vs the cam shaft? The cam sprocket can be moved depending on how old the chain is there is a stud so it can only be moved to one of 3 positions. each one advances or retards by 4* if memory serves. It is used to account for chain stretch, some people do move this to move the power curve around a bit. Looks like the cam drive train was advanced by a few degrees, so it will open the valve a little earlier. If everything is new and the fact that the cam sprocket is not lined up bothers you, use a timing chain tensioner tool and hold the cam via the flat spot with a wrench, making sure the wrench isn't biting into the soft aluminum. Loosen the bolt, and with a rubber mallet knock the sprocket off. Remove the bolt and move the sprocket to the other positions until the timing mark lines up. Reassemble and torque everything to spec.

Please do keep us all updated, looks to be a pretty neat mod. My thoughts is that the strut should be able to support the weight when the most weight is on it. Using the very helpful starting weight of 42lbs, we can deduce that each strut should be able to support 21lb at the minimum to support the weight of the hood. Add much more support and it would actually make closing the hood more difficult, any lack of support and if the wind blew and the hood started closing it wouldn't be able to support the weight. This is with amazingly blunt math/physics of course. Now I'm off to find a 4 inch stroke shock that can support 25lbs to try all this out . Is it 13 inch fully extended center of ball to center of ball, or is it 13 inches end to end

It looks like you turned down the pulse width% and lowered the temperature as well? Hard to exactly grasp, but looks to me that you lowered the PW% right about where it would start, so end result would be making the engine run a bit leaner on start up (makes sense to me). Hopefully good news later this evening.

I've heard some people even go to have stepped washers so that they hold the intake and exhaust at different heights to prevent leaking. Sorry to hear about your bad experience. At least the Z is on the road again .

Sure thing, always fun looking at pictures. And I think the reason backspace wasn't mentioned verbatim is this was originally a tire size thread.

I have one of those, it really is well made. Make sure you keep the spare in a safe place. The locksmith I went to said he hasn't seen a key like that and said he probably couldn't make another one. His advice was to order extra keys if possible if you have a tendency to misplace yours.

You need air You need fuel You need compression You need spark With the throttle open a bit you have air With the starting fluid you should have fuel You have checked spark And it was running with the EFI so it should have compression Short of the firing order being incorrect or timing being out of whack it is a bit difficult to answer without being there. I think 153624 for firing order, I know the book I was using had it wrong. Are you spraying the ether under the pistons? The pistons are nearly closed without engine vacuum even with the throttle open, I know I had to lift mine up to add a little bit to get my engine to burp a bit. The most likely culprit seems to be spark misorder or maybe the distributor was moved out of adjustment? I know the timing for the L24 with SU carbs is different then the L28 with injection. If possible get a timing light on spark wire number one while someone is cranking?

^Very interesting, so the nissan electronic steering units turn off at highway speeds? I just remember that I felt like every correction would take a second and be amplified on the highway, almost like it was twitchy in the ford focus st I was driving.

Tighten all the brake line fittings? How are your brake lines? If possible you should try and bleed both the rears at the same time and both the fronts at the same time. Easily done by yourself with a piece of tubing submerged in a reservoir of brake fluid. That was my final solution to my problem after everything was checked.

Difficult to mount in the rightish position with the stock suspension. To elaborate, to get the look that looks right you want some of the tire to be covered by the flare while stationary. Even covering just a slight amount like that looks great. When the top tucks in it looks fantastic, but at the same time I imagine making it livable is quite difficult. Notice how his flares sit pretty much on the crease near the bottom of the car. And the front lines up with the front bumper, the rear I've seen it done the way above and lining it up with the rear bumper, so the location the flares go is kind of set in that ball park. That is about where you are "supposed" to mount them. With stock suspension, to get that look you are towards the bottom of your suspension travel (near the bump stops). Alternatively, you can save your suspension travel and your tire will have a gap between flare and itself, looking like a monster truck to some. Honestly it doesn't look bad, but you get the drift. You could mount the flares lower on the body and keep your suspension travel, but that ends up looking awkward in my opinion. This is with the presumption that you are staying with the stock spring/perch setup. Most people go with an adjustable height suspension with firmer springs to keep the car from moving too much through the suspension stroke. Regarding the rear floating tire look, it just kind of ends up that way, even stock. The rear end curves in in stock form, so you end up seeing a lot of the tire. If you move a thinner wheel and you move it out, it ends up looking like the wheels are outside the body, even more apparent when you add camber. Keep in mind it looks fine from the side view, but when you walk around to the back, you notice how awkward it can look. (Can't find a picture at the moment) This car below for example has pretty wide wheels, but even so, it can look floaty from the rear. If the tires were thinner and pushed out, it would definitely give the illusion that the wheels were sitting outside the body. Also keep in mind this is all aesthetics and more of a personal observation of mine then any general consensus.

Oh no... I have something of this nature http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20d/23-4188 Would this exhibit the strut snapping problem? Maybe it is time to consider camber plates.

Thanks a bunch AkRev, I owe you a virtual beer. I agree, I am flying in the blind until I get all those sensors up and running, will work on getting those running and then move around to doing a tooth log to tune the signal and then apply the adjustments (don't have tuner studio on work computer). Next update should be Wednesday evening.

Yea I just saw the adjustability with the assist level, that's a neat feature.

Pros: you get power steering. Less steering effort, more comfort. Wheel doesn't fight you going over bumps are small road imperfections. Cons: there may be a delay in steering input, very small, but noticeable at highway speeds. Cost. Typical response, but it can feel like you are detached from what the wheels are actually doing. In the unlikely situation that it fails, the steering should revert back to manual, this can be jarring if you aren't expecting, or happens mid turn.

I like it, with the lighting it looks almost green at first. The purposeful orange peel is an interesting approach, lots of wet sanding in your future if you decide to go for that smooth look. Congrats, really looks like it is coming together!

So flattened the wheel. Gapped the sensor. Noticed the wiring diagram I had said the oil pressure wire was YW, when I visually looked it is YB, so changed that. Still no oil pressure, so will have to check for continuity at the sensor for ground. Used aluminum flex tube which did not work (back fire ripped the aluminum wall), will have to go purchase some steel flex tube Still have to look at O2 sensor I tried cranking the motor to get it to run for a bit last night, it stumbled a few times but wouldn't catch for long. My thought was that I should be playing with the priming pulse, when I read on the msextra site that the priming pulse is for clearing air out of the injectors and that I should instead be playing with the cranking values. According to the website if the motor tries to catch but does not start I should be playing with the after start enrichment curve as well? Visually the RPM's break out of the 300 cranking start area a few times. I looked over the values I have copied, and it looks like my values are taken exactly from their website for cranking and ASE. My thoughts based on the stumbling is to richen the mixture up a bit. It is listed in % so it's a bit hard to really understand what value it is multiplying exactly. Things that definitely need to be addressed is timing the motor to see if it still exhibits the funny spark. Playing with the pots to lower extraneous signal now that wheel has been looked at. Getting an AFR reading to see if engine is dying from rich or lean condition. Check oil pressure continuity. Find alternative method for venting exhaust. Doesn't really feel like the list has gotten much shorter.

This is by far one of my favorite series, and very much one of my favorite episodes! How many unmentioned mods can you spot? I spy.... Ground control coilovers Rear disc brake conversion Wolfcreek axles (via facebook) Definitely spent a bit of money there.

The megasquirt actuated pump does kick on for a second or two and then only remains on when it notices rpm signals. Perhaps your pump is running off just the ignition signal? If your engine is flooding from just the fuel pump being on, that seems like a problem. The injectors should be closed even if the pump is cycling. Perhaps your fuel pressure is too high? When my car was carb'd I had a manual switch to turn the fuel pump off that I wired to the ground of the signal wire on the fuel pump relay. You can add it somewhere inconspicuous and use it as a theft deterrent as well.

I actually lol'd. I think the owner also did something crazy, like move down to a 13inch wheel size by running different calipers and or drums.

Well glad you might have found the problem. The belt slipping on the alternator makes a lot of sense now that I think about it. It would take a lot of oil to jam up the alternator. Just plan for replacing the RMS the next time you do the clutch. If it is indeed the RMS it sits right there. I was in the same situation didn't drive very much, but it does get annoying knowing that you have an oil leak. People tend to point it out fairly often as well.

Putting the valve cover gasket in incorrectly had the same effect for me. Leaks right under the valve cover, on the spark plug side, radiator fan blows the oil everywhere and right on top of the alternator. The amount of oil lost kind of throws me off though. I would have stream of oil following me after a drive, and a small pool if I left the car running, but with the car off oil would drain below the head and I wouldn't have any oil leaks. Except for at my rear main seal. For the RMS, take a look at the install guides. It usually has to do not with the RMS itself but with the gasket and the wideners used in the last crankshaft bearing holder. If you pound them in with the beveled edge facing the wrong way, it will cut into the gasket and cause a leak no matter how many RMS's you replace. Honestly I would say to ditch the ammeter and use a volt meter instead, as long as it doesn't dip below 12 the alternator is doing it's job, although you probably have a quite a bit of a drain if it's reading that low. The witness marks on your hood kind of make me want to throw the valve cover theory out the window though. To make it to your hood it would have to be from a pressurized source which points either to the oil pressure sender, oil filter, oil pump. I would start with the valve cover gasket and go from there and check any of those sources.

Actually was looking for a replacement for my front turn signals, last time I had to drill a hole and resolder the old contact, a new holder altogether would be great. Thanks!

You should look around and see what looks good to you and find out what the offset they are running as looks are kind of up to the individual. 16x9 + 0 may not fit depending on the rim I want to say a 16x8.5 +4 is right about where you are touching the strut/spring perch with the rim with certain makes. You could almost fit a 16x9 wheel without the zg flare at the +0 offset so adding in a 1.5 inch zg flares are going to leave you with a very sunken in look. Same as the fronts. It will also be difficult to mount the flares in the rightish position with stock style suspension as you would be running pretty close to the bump stop, unless you decided to mount the flares lower which wouldn't look quite right especially if you have bumpers. Personally I think it looks a bit silly to have anything thinner than 9.5 with the flare, to fill our the flare you would end up pushing the wheel out and from the rear of the car it looks like the wheels are sitting outside the body.

That makes a bit more sense. I do agree that the problem probably lies wheel end of the setup, but I think it is also important to set the noise threshold so that it can ignore any stray noise that tries to work its way into setting off the sensor. I'm not sitting here trying to tune a mechanical problem out, that would indeed be silly. I think the problem is an inconsistent reading of the number of teeth as mentioned. I've given this a fair bit of thought I just don't think people want to be bored by my theories. But here goes. My thought on the matter is the missing tooth makes the ECU reset the count regardless of how many teeth it sees, thus it fluctuates given the catching/stumbling of the motor, until the engine fires and the wheel is spinning at a consistent speed. Example would be a stall. Sometimes the motor is cranking and then it stalls as it tries to catch, to the ECU if the sensor is between teeth it can misread it as a the missing tooth and restart the timing. Physically, the bowing in of the wheel around the pulley may be pushing some teeth out of the plane of the sensor. The sensor is pretty wide so in my mind it shouldn't matter, but it could play a part in not being at the correct angle to generate enough of a field to deflect the electrons which could cause an incorrect signal. Electronically, it could be the fluctuations in cranking voltage as it spikes as the engine starts to catch and powers the alternator briefly. The sudden increase in voltage could possibly cause the stream of electrons to be increased making the sensor skip a tooth or something of that nature. My plan is... 1. Take the wheel and the spacers off. Check the height of the spacers and add an extra washer so that it is actually floating off of the pulley so that it can't be bowed in. Flatten the wheel back to straight if it is bent, and then add the correct thickness washer behind the center bolt as well so that it is a flat plane. 2. Gap the hall effect sensor so that it is indeed less then 1.5mm from the teeth. 3. Play with the potentiometers to see if I can reduce sync loss during cranking (fuel injector fuse removed) and get it to read a constant value without loss. 4. Route a temporary exhaust using flex tubing outside so fumes are not a problem. 5. Confirm continuity between oil pressure sender and gauge and then confirm continuity between sensor and engine block. 6. Go over LC-1 wiring and power up the stand alone gauge so I have two reference points for AFR Pretty sure the solution will be achieved with the next visit. Do appreciate your input.

...I appreciate the response, but I think you may be confused with how the hall effect sensor is wired in. It gets a straight 12 volts powered from a constant 12 volt ignition source. Without the car running it's hard to get more than that. It does generate much more of a consistent square wave, but it's still a sensor, and sensors need to be tuned to ignore extraneous noise. I can't remember if I uploaded it, but if you look at the signal the VR was picking up, the signal strength fluctuated quite a bit based off of RPM. With the hall effect sensor, the signal strength is actually fairly flat lined in fact I think it hits the same height each time. I mean I have already reaped the benefits. It works much better then the VR sensor I had, and the car even started for quite a bit. From not running, to running, benefit gained...no? I might be missing some intonation or something not conveyed through typing. I've been taking tooth logs which are pretty representative of what the sensor is actually outputting, there isn't much hope going on in the process. It is not really a difficult problem by any means, I think Akrev hit it on the money and I am in full agreement that it has to do with the reading of noise of some sort which would account for inconsistent tooth count on startup. Which will have to be reduced by moving the sensor closer, shielding the signal wire better, or playing with the potentiometers on the megasquirt board.