seattlejester

Now there is merit to running a bigger return, but only if you are using really really thin lines with more than factory rated pressures. Once you pass the minimum restriction sizing for the pump, return hose line size doesn't really matter. On quite a few high hp turbo cars with aftermarket regulators you actually have a boost reference to the fuel pressure regulator, so the regulator only builds up excess pressure when you are in boost and using more fuel (the increased pressure helps compensate for the extra fuel), so running a larger return then the feed would not serve the purpose of preventing back pressure in the return line. When you have over stock levels of required fuel pressure you are using more than stock levels of fuel so it is a zero sum kind of situation. The pressure in the intake manifold is pushing back on the fuel in the fuel injectors so you need the additional pressure to pump the fluid into the intake, the pressure behind the fuel is overall the same. Most mid range regulators are AN6 size. Running a bigger hose is not going to do much good when the exit port is still restricted to a 6AN fitting. It's like hydraulics, doesn't matter where the restriction is released, once the line is filled with incompressible fluid the pressure is the same. Whether the pressure is released right after the regulator or at the fuel cell it shouldn't really matter. If longevity of the fuel pump is your game, it would be better spent trying to design your fuel system so the fuel doesn't take any slopes to the fuel rail and that your fuel pump is supplied with a steady column of fuel (mounted below the fuel line in the tank or as close to the level if not lower than the sump). I mean this is all from thought, in practice magical things may happen, but theory and practice says otherwise.

Yea the ceramic elements in my heater are two little bars about an inch or two wide so I doubt it will be getting too hot, and they will be pointed towards the glass and the rest of the heater doesn't get even warm so I'm not too worried at all. The built in fans are probably going to be more useful then the little heating element. We get maybe a few days of snow a year and it's generally around 40-60 most of the year and 70-100 in the summer, so not too concerned. I have a daily so no plans on driving when it's uncomfortably cold. My new alternator is 140 amps so it can handle quite a bit of load . I'm not the first to take advantage of stock holes, why do more work then necessary? Honestly I think the pulley is just a pulley, not a harmonic dampener like in american cars. I know the toyota pulley is balanced from the factory, but I don't think a couple grams here or there will make a difference with the rubber dampener in place Plus the trigger wheel itself is balanced, and similar hardware was used. If it turns out it does end up making a weird vibration or something, I can always add some steel putty into the spacers to make them of similar weight. I do plan on finding another pulley and maybe welding the new wheel on if this turns out to be long term.

So I was supposed to start my car two weekends ago. Plan was to fill up the fluids, crank for a bit, turn on spark and injectors and start, but failed at the first item. Started off with mounting me remote oil filter. Needed to find a location away from the exhaust, easily accessible but out of the way of the wiring. Ended up mounting it at a 45* angle right after the cross member. Easy access and hopefully no problems. Drained engine oil and filled with no problem. Drained transmission oil and filled through shifter with no problem. Poured in coolant and problems. First leak was right under the intake manifold. Unbeknownst to me there was a barb to feed coolant past the throttle body. So I grabbed my stock intake manifold, pulled off the barb to fit to the new one, and low and behold, no threads on the new intake. The problem was the hole was under the runner, and given how tight the whole assembly is, it would be hours to take off everything to get at it with a tap for a plug. As much as it pains me, I went with marine JB weld. Tested it first on a pipe and found it didn't budge or leak so I had my solution. After pouring in 1 gallon of coolant I noticed a drip, from the block off plate for the heater return. Took it off to find that I had knicked the silicone sealant with a stud causing the leak. Lathered on the silicone again and put it on, no leaks so far. Filled it up all the way with water this time to make sure the leaks were not a hazard. No problems. I spent the next two days trying to get the toyota CPS sensor to work with megasquirt. Maybe due to it's age or some other reason, it just was not picking up the wheel speed at anything close to reliable under 500rpm (tested with a drill). At that point I decided to cut losses and go with a DIY auto tune wheel and hall effect sensor proven to work. Wheel arrived, I had considered welding the wheel on, but decided that getting it centered would be difficult, so I chose to bolt the wheel on. The 7mgte pulley is deep, so an extended crank pulley bolt would not be an option. So I decided to drill into the center pulley bolt and tap it for a smaller screw. While drilling the small hole, I noticed 4 holes in the pulley. These holes are actually for a crank pulley puller, but they would serve my purposes magnificently. Problem was that the bolt pitch was 8x1.25 where the trigger wheel had slots for the smaller 1/4 inch bolts. Tentatively the plan was to weld a 1/4 bolt head to head with a m8x1.25 bolt, when I remembered I had some m8x1.25 threaded rod that I could shape at no cost to me . So after a few measurements... Then shaved the sides 180 apart to thin the bolt Then used some spacers and a nut to give the wheel a nice flat surface to sit against Benefit is using 4 bolts the wheel lines up almost perfectly with the center as the sides of the cross line it up side to side and the center of the cross line it up in the middle. Saw a picture where someone tapped the timing belt cover for the bracket for the hall effect mount, so I did that as well. Still need to go back and take a look at lining up the spacers as the wheel is bowed in a little bit with everything tightened. But pretty painless process. The longest portion was making my shaved bolts and running a die to ensure they had a good thread at the bottom and figuring out the correct drill size for the center pulley, but should hopefully get a nice cranking signal this weekend.

If you look at the specs it specifies a minimum of 2mm wide and 2mm gap between each tooth for the hall effect sensor to read. I believe it has something to do with a switching voltage. If the teeth are too pointy the flow of electrons can just be interrupted at high speed and cause the ECU to miss or ignore the signal. I think you may be confused if you think I am trying to use the hall effect sensor with the toyota wheel. I ordered the DIYA 36-1 wheel to use with the hall effect sensor. Won't be using the toyota wheel. The teeth on the toyota CPS are actually fairly flat so I actually wouldn't be surprised if just buying a hall effect and drilling into the housing may actually fix a trigger problem. If someone was truly lazy they could also weld the smaller 3 inch 36-1 tooth wheel onto the CPS wheel and add a hall effect sensor off the side of it as well. I'll take a tooth log once I install it. I have a few tooth logs from my drill powered VR sensor so it should illuminate the noise question.

Yea it is a bit confusing, I believe the setup you are referring to is called the flying magnet style of hall effect magnetic wheel. You wouldn't want a magnetic sensor trying to pickup a rotating magnetic field, it would be quite chaotic if that was attempted. I'm tired, so this may seem a bit off, but for anyone who is curious in the future, the difference to my understanding... A VR sensor reads the flux in the magnet. The magnet is permanently attached to the back of the sensor and it is pulled at maximum when a metal object is close and a voltage is generated as it passes by. The spike can then be tuned with software. The problem with these lie in the fact that...one your coil has to generate enough of a field that the passing object will generate a detectable flux, and two the signal generated needs to be processed to get a signal for the passing teeth. This is preferred when the tooth wheel is small, wiring is difficult (no power wire needed), or the location demands maybe a hotter operating temperature. Hall effect is a sensor with a magnetic field as well although most are now electrical coils or funneled through a crystal of some sort (my apologies my memory is failing me at the moment). When the electrons are knocked off course it basically fails to read. Thus hall effect sensors basically have on/off detection, either the electrons make it to the end, or they do not.

Andy: I definitely hear you on the oil pump, I spent maybe 2 hours checking the clocking on mine only to find I didn't have an ignition signal. Probably a good 10 times of checking tightening, loosening, ugh, definitely unpleasant. I was actually considering ordering a few more to play around with (different methods of attaching to pulley), if your tax return is far off, I wouldn't mind sending you one. madkaw: I tried quite a few configurations with gaps definitely finicky about it's location. The toyota sensor actually has 3 sensors in it 2 for the 1 tooth wheel and 1 for the 24 tooth cam wheel. Turns out all three sensors are the same, so I may play around with the other two and see if it was maybe an old sensor. Granted the other two sensors would be just as old...but it should give me something to do over the weekend while I wait for my new trigger wheel. Akrev: I'm pretty much thinking that the VR sensor just outputs too small of a voltage at low RPM to read through the wire harness or something of that nature. I bought additional shielding so I will definitely shield the bit that goes to the new halls effect sensor. Thanks for the potentiometer settings. I literally tried 1/2 turn increments for a good 5 turns, bottomed it out and tried again, so I think that it may be better to just cut the cord after switching out the sensor tomorrow. The 36-1 wheel will have better resolution anyways . The DIY on the diyautotune sight showed one bolt to steady, although they may have just been demonstrating one hole. I think the 7mgte pulley is just like the L-series pulley in that it is not used to balance but instead just used to run accessories off of, but I may just add the second bolt for reassurance. The current problem is that I have a full radiator and intercooler, so it is kind of tempting to actually just weld the trigger wheel to the pulley, although I'm not sure how I would get rid of the center portion. I think it would be better to remove radiator and intercooler, and just drill into the pulley bolt for the center bolt and then space it out with a few washers and secure it on the grooves in 2 locations 180 apart, unless the pulley is really easy to drill into, in that case 4 holes at 90 apart.

AkRev: sorry I totally missed your suggestions/observations. I've edited my post above to reflect my responses. So I ran the tooth logger for my intermittent signal at diyautotune's suggestion. Megasquirt was picking up maybe 1 or 3 teeth every other second at cranking speed. With a drill it was picking up a consistent signal, above 500 RPM but was not reading the missing tooth. The voltage/signal intensity spikes were really all over the place as the rpm's fluctuated. I think the stock toyota VR sensor does work at higher rpm, but at low rpm I think it is having problems communicating with the ECU. After 2 days of cranking I am throwing in the towel. I bought a 6 3/4 36-1 crank wheel from DIY auto tune and a halls effect sensor. I am thinking I can tap my crank pulley bolt for the center and add a bolt to keep it from loosing center on one of the grooves. Hopefully we will have good news next week.

I'd be worried about the welded angle iron pulling out the spot welds between the frame rail and the inner fender more than the bar kinking. I'll ask my friend about the analysis this weekend.

I have to admire the willingness to take on two projects. The 240 is turning out really nice, and this zx should be a nice companion .

As long as the connecting tube doesn't kink it looks pretty sound. I would want to run a gusset underneath the tube to the bottom portion of the angle iron, but as noted the steering column would get in the way. The only concern I would have is the 0.095 tube seems a bit on the thinner side. If you wanted over kill you could raise the post in the engine bay and triangulate to the engine, but all that would do is add stress to the weld between the vertical tube and the angle iron as well as give the engine a bit of leverage to tear the post off of the frame rail. If you can get the angle on the tube, I can ask a friend to run stress analysis if he has time.

Yes at one point we did crank while running the CPS off of a drill. We had the injectors and the spark turned off, we were just worried that maybe during cranking the ECU couldn't pick up on the VR sensor. Yes, same gap. Using the stock toyota CPS 24-2 opposing teeth I.E. 12-1 crank. I made a video and marked the CPS and timed it, it is cranking 60RPM on the cam, so 120RPM at the crank. I am running a shrunken BT20 battery hooked up to a 30amp rapid charger, thinking it might be the battery, I took the deep cycle optima battery from my other car, and had the charger set to engine start mode (80amps). Engine cranked a little faster but still no rpm signal. Thanks for the suggestions. Cranking RPM was set at 300, we played around with it by setting it down and up a bit and even changing the start location of the fuel map, but I think it turns out the VR sensor was the culprit. The VR sensor was just super super super picky about the gap. I noticed that I could get megasquirt to read a screw driver passing by it all the way down to 5 rpm, so playing around with the distance the screw driver was to the sensor got the problem. I got it to pick up an intermittent signal while cranking by basically having the sensor plate touch the toothed wheel and machine a new gap between them. Now just to go over my other settings, hopefully I won't be posting many more of these help me threads for a while.

Progress looks good, that was quite a bit of rot you treated there. Keep it up!

Sorry I may not have been clear. This is during cranking. Ecu won't pick up a signal. With a drill it reads rpm fine,

Got my high rpm signal figured out, but having trouble with my low rpm. Using a drill or hand the Ecu can pick up a signal around 150 rpm. We tried doing this while cranking to see if the power drain was causing issues. Still picks up signal fine. It is a VR sensor, so I took the cover off and adjusted both potentiometers counter clock wise and then slowly turned clockwise. No luck. This is a PCb 3.57. From the updates it says full sweep is 5 full turns. Not getting anything from adjustment in the range. Any insight would be appreciated.

Yes, although I only used 3 holes, and I think the other gent who did it used two? The merit of integrity is kind of debated. The holes were used to install the factory roll protection for the race chassis. So it is double thick in that area, but a harness will exert a force perpendicular to the mounting so take it as you will.

I believe I am using D14 as the ignition, I will have to check on the coolant based on/off. Thanks for the help! Just had trouble starting last night from the lack of voltage from the RPM signal. Will be adjusting the pots for the VR and hopefully will have good news later tonight.

Changed wasted spark output, tooth wheel settings, and the boost control and error went away. Thanks guys!

To be fair, coming into this thread and informing everyone how much it upsets you with a recap of how you perceived the happenings really doesn't add value towards answering the original question either. Pointing out someone's mistake is not bashing/bullying/ or mocking. If someone's fly is unzipped, informing him of it does not make you a bully. If they take it that way that is their prerogative. You can be seen as an a-hole for doing it bluntly in the wrong situation, but that's about it. You are not forcing them into a certain behavior, making fun of them, or hating them without reason. Tony may have been a bit outspoken, but I had a sense of him peppering his statements with jovial remarks to try and cushion direct statements. Regardless of how it may have been perceived, the truth is he is doing something important, which is preventing the spread of misinformation. If the next person came around and saw the post that one can do anything with the 90amp flux welder they may end up spending their budget on a cheap welder and end up ruining expensive body panels. It is better to prevent this from happening at all and point someone towards a quality tool that will help down the road. Now, someone suggesting that all welders other than ____ are crap and that you would be considered nothing more than an amateur or something of that nature would indeed be on a high horse and a bully. Bottom line, a flux core welder is not the ideal tool unless you don't have access to gas or you work in a windy location. If that is the only condition you can work in and you have to do thinnish metal, it will be the ideal choice for that situation. A mig will deliver good clean welds when welding to well prepped materials and shielded from strong gusts and will throw off minimal sparks if you maintain the right distance. A Tig will be even better in the low propagation of sparks, but does require two hands to use correctly as well as changing out rods frequently for longer welding sessions. I do agree this thread seems to have run it's course.

Should be pretty easy once the coil overs come in. Just make sure to account for the full rim width not just the stamped width (should be able to ask the wheel company for a ruler measurement), make sure to post pictures!

So steps to be taken... It is two opposing teeth that were removed, so I will reconfigure for 12-1 crank trigger. Change settings from wasted-cop to wasted spark. Change JS11 so it only is used for one output. I actually ordered a custom board from your website. On my order sheet it says... I have PAD1 spark A outputs DB37, PAD3 Spark B outputs DB15 pin 10, and PAD2 Spark C outputs DB15 pin 11. Boost control is output on DB15 pin 5. To get the actual pin designations, I would have to open up the ECU to take a look inside? Thanks for taking a gander! I thought maybe the update or the fact that my laptop is a mac was playing haywire. Glad to see it's just some type of user error.

Welcome to the forums! I'd say you are off to a good start. You have the most basic essentials taken care of, finances, space, time, and most importantly blessing from the spouse. Definitely follow your heart. It seems like you are pretty set on an RB motor from fondness for the GTR. My only advice would be not to hold it up to the same regard. The interior won't be nearly the same in creature comfort, the fit and finish of the install will be quite different, it will be RWD, etc etc. With that said, don't throw the L28 with triple webers and exhaust under the bus, it's quite a good combo, and as mentioned you can turbo it pretty easily. Just things to keep in mind. Plus if you do headers and triple webers, you can always sell the parts later on. Those two parts in general keep their value pretty well. If you get a chance find someone local and go for a ride, an L28 at full song with exhaust and carb induction noise is life changing. I don't know what you consider a budget, but people will tell you an RB swap is not cheap. Like you can import a GTR or two not cheap (1990 model GTR's are now legal for import ). If your key is to minimize electronics, the 240z will have the minimum. No fuel injection etc. If you choose to go RB later, you will have to replace all the fuel lines and the tank, so you won't even have to consider keeping the old stuff. The engine wiring harness will pretty much be new as well, so once again no consideration for keeping the old stuff. So a 240z will initially have less wiring/electronics, the carbs are simple, the chassis is a tad lighter. For a future RB swap it is more of a blank canvas. A 280z on the other hand will have the r200, a fuel injection system, a baffled fuel tank, etc, slightly heavier, slightly more reinforced. Granted all this stuff will be 30+ years old, so it may need refreshing at the minimum. The general consensus though is to buy whatever car is in the best shape (least amount of rust). Unless you are absolutely married to a specific chassis and you are not willing to make aesthetic changes, you should buy the best condition chassis you can afford regardless of the model type. If you want a race car a shell may be a good place to start if you plan on taking out the driveline and reinforcing the chassis anyway. Otherwise buy a complete as possible car that is maybe a little rough on the interior or mechanically unsound, buying a beauty queen to tear apart would be kind of a big blow to your wallet for no good reason. The little pieces will add up so having a complete interior if you want to keep it streetable will be a big blessing. A full roll cage would be very uncomfortable and would be quite unsafe to drive it on the street. If 550hp is your goal you may want to look into weak points in the chassis rather then putting a jungle gym in the car that you can bash your head against. Unless you went all out with gusset plates and tied in suspension pickup points, I'm not sure you could rely on a cage to keep a flimsy body together. Would be more advisable to replace floors and put in reinforcement plates, braces, and brackets for more stress prone areas. As long as you aren't launching the car too hard chassis twisting shouldn't be too much of a problem. A local guy builds v8 swapped cars and was surprised when I told him about adding beams for stiffness. He said even with LS swaps he hasn't had problems with chassis twisting. Places to look for rust. Someone familiar with classic cars or a local z enthusiast/shop will know the areas really well. If you haven't probed around old cars looking for tell tale signs of rust, it would be advisable to take someone who has along with you. The biggest problem I see is people mistakenly diagnosing rust as "oh just surface rust," or missing to spot a swelling paint bubble or chipping undercoating. A 20 here, lunch, or a few bottles of beer should be enough to ask an acquaintance to go look at a car with you. For shop supplies...it really is limitless, I may come back to this list later as it is something I always wanted to make. First off is to make a list of rules that you will follow yourself. AKA clean up garage after each use, put tools back, take out garbage, sweep, etc etc. Peg board or tool chests will help in finding tools and making sure tools get back to their proper home. If you plan on doing a lot of body work yourself and this is an attached garage, it may be time to consider sound proofing. It will help keep sanity in the house hold, a nice insulated door will help keep sound from transmitting too much. Venting may be something you want to look into. A small fan with a shutter can help vent harmful fumes from body work. Welding and painting give off copious harmful fumes and you would definitely want to keep that away from your family and yourself. Heating may be important to look into if you live in a cold climate. Lighting is really important. You want to have lights at a variety of locations, not just a central light. My dream garage would have detachable florescent lights lining the walls on the floor. Shelves and boxes will be very helpful for keeping items organized for when you need to find them down the road. Making a habit of labeling zip-lock bags and boxes will be a true blessing when reassembly comes down the line. Lots of tape (electrical, masking, painting, etc), and pens/chalk/stone markers will make it a breeze to reach up and grab them when you need to mark or label. Shop vac for cleaning up dust from sanding and body filler will help keep dust out of the air. Fire extinguisher...yea that would have come in handy a few times. A big garbage can that you can fill and seal and take to the dump will be important. You will find problems if you are dumping your shop waste into your household garbage, you can definitely generate quite a bit of waste while working on a car. A good broom and dust pan will definitely help keep the garage space neat and clean. A large amount of kitty litter to absorb the inevitable spill. Large amount of shop towels. Disposable and non disposable gloves. An assortment of tools will be handy, couple of sets of wrenches, basic, ratcheting, short, long, jointed etc will be useful. Ratchets of varying size and adjustability as well as a set of metric short and long sockets (3/8th and 1/4 for smaller spaces), a 1/2 inch set that is impact ready will be useful for heavier duty items extentions and ujoints, and wobble heads will make getting to some of the trickier bolts an easy task. A set of allen head sockets will come in handy in a few places, a set of allen wrenches for the really small inaccessable locations. A breaker bar to get the really stubborn bolts, they sell ratcheting versions as well as the basic version. Torque wrenches will be really useful for reassembly. Screw drivers, phillips and flathead of varying length will be great. Hammers, punches, chisels, impact drivers etc. Adjustable crescent wrenches, pipe wrenches, strap wrenches, and vice grips. Impact gun, air or otherwise will make your life much easier. Depending on how lazy/thrifty you are an electric or pneumatic ratchet will make short work of tightening and loosening. An air hammer will be useful as well for bushings and sound deadening removal. A sawzall will be nice if you need to cut out some major body work, an air saw/electric saw will be nice for smaller pieces. A dremel will be great for those little deburring or shapping projects. An electric shear, flanger, and hole puncher can come in handy as well. An angled die grinder will be helpful for fabrication along with a welder. You can get a lot done with your basic mig setup. I want to say mine is a hobart handler 130? and the only problem I've had is trying to weld a bead upside down. Having two tanks is also great so you can take the empty tank in when you run dry. An autodarkening helmet is also really a must. Will really help on seeing your welds. Attaching a light to said helmet will really make welding much more enjoyable. A good bench vise solidly mounted will make a great object for pressing out bushings and hammering and shaping metal. Depending on the level of shaping, a bending brake and body shapping hammers and dolly along with sandbags will help in getting just the right curvatures and bends. Plenty of protection, gloves, respirators, ear plugs, ear muffs, spark protector. I will add more and organize this in a little bit, that should be more than enough to get you started.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I did find this. Which also says it is some type of configuration error. That megasquirt actually isn't reading a signal that it is an error output. When I open mini terminal and power cycle no message shows up and it won't connect until mini terminal is turned off. I did open a new project and loaded the msq to find the same thing happen. I may have to just open a new project from scratch and see if that results in the same problems.

I'm using the stock toyota wheel which was a 24 tooth wheel with a separate wheel 1 tooth wheel. I removed the 1 tooth wheel and ground off 2 opposing teeth on the 24 tooth wheel turning it into a 22 tooth 24-2 wheel. Hmm hbz isn't letting me upload the msq. msq here And mind you, the computer is reading 65000 rpm on startup with just ignition on. Megasquirt asks that I turn off the engine before even entering test mode. The engine is not running during this whole process. I mean if I look at it logically, the ecu is receiving a signal says that is reading a pulse every ~1/1000 of a second. The ecu is DC powered so I can't fathom how it can read a signal of that nature.

First off, I would like to apologize for the short info, I will add to it once I get some food in my system. Setup MS 2 pcb 3.57 3 spark output drivers Toyota CPS (24 tooth missing two teeth, 22 remaining teeth) GM Coolant temp sensor GM Intake air sensor 7mgte, coil on plugs Connected to tuner studio and it is reading an rpm signal of 65000 or so RPM. I tried changing a few settings, even unplugged the cam position sensor and I could not get the 65000 rpm signal to drop. Power cycled, but TS keeps displaying the setting configuration error. Following instructions the mini terminal is blank and does not load any error even when power cycling. When I was testing last week, the ecu would read the signal fine when I rotated the CPS by hand. All the other sensors work (AFR, CTS, ATS, MAP), although the TPS didn't seem to want to be reading anything as well. Any thoughts? I will attach my msq momentarily CPS setting is 24-2 cam speed, starting 3 teeth ahead for 90* btdc for tooth number 1 angle.

I knew it was strict over there, but wow no negative offset wheels? I know that you aren't allowed to run wheels that poke out past the fenders in some states over here, but that can be solved with a flare. Does this just apply to the stamp on the wheel? As in can you use spacers to get negative offset? Looks like you may just have to wait and maximize your width, or else the wheel is going to look pretty sunken in.