seattlejester

Is there a reason that 0 is the maximum? The work equip wheels that you want are usually custom order, and the last time I checked they do come in negative offsets. And if you chose to sell them it would probably be easier to unload them in the z community with negative offset. Would be easier to unload in the miata community closer to 0 offset. Waiting to check is not a bad idea. It would be unfortunate if you ordered a custom set and they didn't quite fit.

It's called a fuel cell. Pretty much just a box to hold fuel. Made from a variety of materials, the one shown is aluminum and can range from a rubber bladder to plastic. Usually reserved for more serious builds as you forgo creature comforts such as a fuel filler and such (unless you get a remote filler setup). Do a lot of searching and build thread surfing, you will find you can learn a lot on this site. Welcome.

Goodness that is a good chunk of change right there. Without knowing the exact height that the coilover collar will be sitting, it will be a bit difficult to fully commit to an answer. If the collar sits above the rim then you could run a thinner tire to get some clearance, if it runs at or below the lip, you are going to have to have the correct offset. I would say better safe then sorry and either wait until they arrive, or just order something towards the safer size, there isn't any real benefit of running the rim closer to the strut if you are planning on running flares, you have quite a bit of room to move in the other direction. Yes, in general people with stock suspension are limited to ~4.5 inches of back spacing with a small margin of safety. For a lot of rims though there is a hidden depth, such as some 8 inch rim are actually 9 inches wide lip to lip meaning a 15x8+0 will actually have closer to 4.5 inches of backspacing. The front spring is actually a bit wider if recollection serves maybe around ~4.5 so the spring perch at around 4.75 to 5 inches is pretty large, so you can run a bit more backspacing with coilovers, but the rear is already on the thinner side at under 4 inches, so a coilover setup may not get quite as much clearance. So if we apply the same logic to the wheels you are looking at, a 15x10+1 will actually have roughly 5.5 inches of backspacing which is very very much near the accepted maximum one can run without spacers on coilovers. A 15x9.5+1 will be roughly 5.25 inches of backspacing so a little more breathing room there, but still fairly on the close side. Depending on your tire make it can run a little wider than you may realize thus having a bit of safety is not a bad idea, granted 245 on a 9.5-10 inch rim will have a bit of stretch going on. There was a local guy that I almost bought wheels from who was running 15x10 + 48 using the stock datsun studs as a spacer using a spacer adapter on welded in tein coilovers. I think I calculated it and it was something like 15x10 +15 or 20, but I definitely walked away from them because it would have required some massive spacers to run properly. He swore they didn't rub, but I really didn't want to stick around to check. Really though I would say it is much much better to err towards 4.5 inch. You can run quite a bit more offset especially with flares, and there really isn't any benefit to being so far inboard. You could also shoot tein an e-mail and ask. I'm sure they would be able to answer the question.

Trouble is comfort I imagine. Unless you have room to flip your car over, fitting the rear subframe is going to be really tiring doing it from underneath. A guy I know just cut out the whole rear subframe and floor in the rear section and box framed it so he can pull up to install his non original subframe rather then push up on a subframe, every other thread I have seen is usually done with the car rotated 180 for the repeated fitment. Just to play devil's advocate, I think you can get an LSD with cv axles in the rear with disc brakes and adjustable suspension (camber and toe) without the spindle pin for ~550 in full hardcore JY diving DIY spec to keep it comparable to the 240sx subframe swap, but the weak point would indeed be the stub axles and lack of aftermarket. Granted given some hp figures some people are putting out, I wonder if worrying about the stub axle is overkill.

Hmm, probably not, but more info is needed. What car? 240-280z, or 280zx? The tein made to order coil overs? or tein coil overs from another make and model? The standard size people shoot for in an s30 is a 9.5 wide -19 with flares. A 10 wide +1 will be about 26mm closer to the suspension. Factory spring perch is a little over 4 inches wide, if you are referring to the s30 specific kit I believe they use their standard coil over spring which is ~3.5 inches or so with the perch/locking ring being ~3.75 inches from my recollection. If you can clear the locking ring you may be able to fit the 10 wide +1. If the locking ring ends up close to the tire or lower then you may not have enough clearance to run those wheels without spacers. Once you fit the suspension, measure the distance to the face of the hub. Subtract 1/2 an inch to an inch to account for rim lip width from that value and that should help your wheel selection.

Hmm that's not good, that sounds similar to my setup. Are you using the RT style front diff mount? Or just a reinforced front diff mount using the stock rubber with the limiter strap?

Hello, Just a heads up to the powers that be. I noticed starting this morning that the hybridz.org redirects to iis7 site? The rest of the site is accessible once the forums.hybridz.org address is used. This is on the safari web browser. Have a good day, Brian

That makes sense to me. I believe you would only have to change the tooth # 1 angle value and the rest would be kept the same just the reference value would be switched.

What is your current rear driveline setup? Stock cross member? R180? Poly bushings?

I think the main benefit is to stop the stuck spindle pin from ever becoming a problem again. For any of us that have had to saw the spindle pin and press them out, the situation can be quite bothersome. If for some reason the bolt is stuck down the road, you would just have to put an impact on the bolt head and impact it out. Also this becomes more of a requirement when you move to helm joints for the RLCA.

That seems jarring with what I have in my head. Under stock fender: 9 wide with 0 offset Zg flare: 9 with -13 offset in front, and 9.5 with -19 offset in rear BAMF flare: 11 with -52 offset in rear A 9 with -15 would be 40 mm further out than the 7 inch wheels I have right now And that picture is with a few degrees of camber in the back. The easiest way to remember is to find the boundary from the hub face to where it hits the suspension (the inner boundary). On a z car with stock like suspension that number is about 4-4.5 inches. With coil overs the number can be pushed towards 5-5.5 inches I believe. After you have that number all that remains is your outer boundary. A good size to start with is 8 inches wide, we will use 9 inches for the example as people have reported that size fitting with a bit of camber. So for 4.5 inches of backspacing (our golden number), on a 9 inch wide rim, you will need an offset of 0 or more negative (9/2 = 4.5). Z flares add about 2 inches, thus if you want to run maybe a little wider with less camber, since the outer boundary is further out you could run a 9.5 -19 offset (9.5 - (19/25) ~ 8.75/2 ~ 4.4). BAMF flares I want to say most wide ones add 3 inches, thus if you wanted to run a bit wider you could run an 11 with -52 offset (11-(52/26) = 9/2 =4.5). So as long as you maintain the inner number and choose a tire that is appropriate that should help choosing a wheel. You can go wider of course, but that will mean running a stretched tire, or running with more suspension travel/camber. Remember there is no best on hybridz, and if you plan on running spacers you will need longer wheel studs as you run out of thread pretty quick on the stock wheel studs.

Hmm I may have to consider a side exhaust. Maybe not as close as yours but maybe out of the rear quarter. Super jelly over here.

Sounds pretty awesome. Question for you, any exhaust fumes in the cabin?

Yea, I have had major problems and still have a bit of problems with the fumes. I usually take a nap after anything close to a long drive because I feel light headed afterwords. Carbon monoxide will get you pretty sick, dizzy, light headed etc. A high flow cat should pick up some of the gas, but....if you are generating a lot of carbon monoxide you can clog up the cat pretty quick. If fumes are getting into the car, the CO2 is just as bad. It can displace air in the cabin and can literally knock you out if you are not careful. I would definitely check the hatch gasket (dollar bill trick here) as well as the taillight gaskets and around the fuel vent lines. I would imagine dry rot would be quite common out there. Also a place that is often overlooked is behind the black panels on the side. A place that is also missed is the firewall. Making sure to seal unused holes will keep the smell of gas and oil (which can be mistaken for exhaust fumes) from wafting into the cabin. Checking fuel vent lines is also a good idea. Definitely check on the intake and exhaust manifolds and make sure there are no loose nuts and the gasket isn't pinched somewhere. If the fumes get real bad and you are positive everything is as good as it can be, it may be time to forgo style and add a 6 inch tip that extends past the rear of the car and has a turn down to try and get the fumes out of the rear vortex. If gf/health is important to you, maybe time to consider a cheap run around and move this car into the project car category?

Looks really good, maybe buy an electric die grinder to keep as a spare? Keep up the work, and the updates on the zx!

Getting to the final stretch. Ordered the oil line for the remote oil filter mount, still need to buy a catch can and a PCV line. Still need to wire and mount my oil gauge and wire the LC-1 into the megasquirt harness as well as go over the shoddy wiring for the center console, but as far as megasquirt is concerned car could potentially run. Bought coolant, oil, transmission oil, filter, and all the other little bits for the first start. Decided I would take a brake from the monotony of wiring and do some physical items on the car. Torqued all the bolts and.... Installed the Aerocatch on the trunk! Boy does it look nice, the underside is a different story, but at least the surface looks good. Still need to do one for the hood, but the hood won't go on until the intercooler is hard mounted and the wiring is officially done with. It's nice knowing that I have a lock for the trunk now instead of just taping it over.

I'll get a little sciencey for a bit. Please don't be offended if you know all this, just trying to be clear. 14.7 is the stoichiometric AFR ratio. That also happens to coincide with 1 atmosphere aka 1bar aka 101kpa. What that means is for every 1 unit of fuel you are running 14.7 units of air. Depending on the motor the definition of where you are lean versus rich can very, but traditionally the point of reference is 14.7 AFR. Run much leaner than that and you risk pining, run much richer and you risk bogging down the engine/being really inefficient. Warning, this is what I have seen, I don't tune for a living so all this is just observational. Definitely some room for someone else to chime in here. For turbo cars the ratio that people tend to shoot for under load is ~12 from what the local tuner sets at his shop. Keeps the mixture somewhat cooler and adds a bit of a buffer for random unforeseen events. So hitting 12 at WOT is actually pretty decent. On most tuned cars that I have seen, it tends to go opposite though, starting at maybe 12.5 and richening up to 11-11.5 near redline. I imagine your power curve would show it being quite peaky towards redline. For cruising you can run quite a bit leaner, you are not using the throttle very much or very much horsepower your cruising seems ok, the question is how it responds when you give it throttle. 18 seems to be on the higher side of things for an idle though. For the fumes, definitely check the intake/exhaust gasket and the nuts/washers holding the manifolds to the head. Unless everything is perfectly level with respect to each other you are going to have some pretty extensive air/exhaust leaks. There are also a number of threads for tips to lower the exhaust fumes, my favorite is the turn down muffler, that let me drive around without a respirator on. Also spending 30$ on a carbon monoxide detector is not a bad idea. Without a tunable ECU, you are kind of at the mercy of the pre loaded map. At least is shows that you aren't running terribly rich everywhere.

If you have to pull the motor out, it is a good time to change out to the honda wiper motor. Couple bucks at the junkyard and comes with newer wiring and a 6 prong plug.

Speedometer would be tricky depending on which transmission you have since the final gears were a lot higher compared to Z cars. Depending on the year of the Z, tachometer can be as easy as intercepting a signal wire or difficult as swapping to 280z gauges. Also kind of depends on distributor versus coil pack here. Oil pressure and coolant would be a long shot, you would either have to swap in your stock sending units/sensor, as I want to say the resistance curves are different. You could use the stock sensors (from the new motor), but most likely the sweep would be different. Voltmeter is pretty easy. Clock is self explanatory. This is something that is usually looked at way down the road though.

Memory doesn't serve as well, but the door panels were off. I want to say two around the whole body and one pulling the arm rests (some sacrificial ones I imagine). He said he leaves it like that for a week or two to really get it to adjust a bit. He had a whole spiel about the owners changing and why the results have been variable and the change in rubber compounds used etc etc, he actually does quite a bit of testing for precision. Actually was upset with me when I told him I changed out the precision gaskets lol.

Yea, that was definitely a problem point. I used a 90* low profile ratcheting screw driver, or cut a flat phillips groove into it and turn it using a side of a flat head (flathead turned 90* so it fits in the groove).

Oh please post lots of pictures, I've always been curious with the rear flare only look. Skylines run them pretty often, but I don't see too many Z's with that setup.

Option one won't work at speed. You will blow a fuse when the fan stalls.

No, and this is the wrong thread, and you are looking at the wrong boundary.

Oh I don't mean like crushing from the engine, I mean like crushing from tightening the engine mount to the cross member. Did you just drill a single hole through and put a nut in the back? Or did you put a sleeve through to keep the tube from crushing when you tighten the engine mount down. Edit: Actually I recall you said you solid mounted. I guess you wouldn't use the rubber mount, just plate steel back up to the motor?