seattlejester

Note: not a sane hour, I may edit this when I am more awake, so feel free to ignore it till morning. I think you should be able to figure it out with the information that is supplied, I'll help you out this one time. Blue/red = 12 volt power Black = ground Blue = high or low Blue/yellow = high or low Yellow = stop signal You may have to rub the dirt off, but you should only have 1 black wire I suspect the other one is blue. Black wire goes to ground. Blue/red gets power from the ignition signal (it should be on with the key in the on position). Blue or blue yellow gets wired to the steering column stalk if you are using a stock setup, it honestly doesn't matter which one you have set. If you mix up one for the other, you will just have, off, fast, then slow instead of off, slow then fast. Pretty easy to switch those two wires once you figure it out. If you are rewiring the whole area, It just needs to be on a 3 position switch, where when one is on, the other is off. You can orient it however you want it to (3 position rocker switch/flip switch). And the yellow wire is the wire stop signal, essentially when you turn the wiper off, this wire provides enough signal for the wiper to complete its revolution before it turns off. This wire is also not needed, I park mine vertically as it tends to lift at speed anyways, and when they are parked down low they actually inhibit vision with low seats. Not 100% sure where this wire gets signal from, I want to say it is self triggered and just needs a 12 volt source when the motor completes revolution I want to say it is interupted, not 100% sure on this one, you will have to find out how wiper motors are wired to have this one work correctly.

Oh wow, that is quite a lot of fuel, yea, please don't crank that over. That can be an accident waiting to happen. Were these new injectors? Where were they from? I know there have been some knockoff injectors sold under the bosch name as OEM replacements from certain aftermarket stores. I agree, if possible test the injectors off the car. With ignition disabled. Me thinks you may find one or two of them on constant on. If it was enough to shoot out of the plug holes, you have quite a lot of fluid in there. This is all with the assumption this is gas, I really don't mean to insult you, but there is no chance this is coolant or water correct? I mean the last time I have seen fuel spray out of the sparkplug hole is with a flooded carb where the floats sank, but far more often, I have seen and heard of internally blown headgaskets flooding coolant into the chambers.

I drove one back from oregon, those Focus ST's are pretty nifty. Pulling in 5th or 6th gear and having the boost come on is a really great feeling. The little arrow that tells you to shift up or down is pretty entertaining as well. And jesus the power was surprising from a FWD car, I gave it a little getting onto the freeway and was surprised to feel traction control kicking in with modest throttle input, and even further surprised when I shifted up and the tires still didn't feel like hooking up. I will say the parts that were strange was the cockpit felt really odd, just low visibility or something just felt like I was missing out on some information. The seats were kind of uncomfortable for me, a little to compressing on the thighs. The most annoying thing by far was the electric steering, the minor corrections I made while cruising on the freeway felt like nothing was happening, I felt like I was constantly sawing away at the wheel. But it was really an interesting car. My friend was actually looking to move up to a mustang from the ST, kind of funny how you went the opposite way.

Oh, those were options. It could very well be that he really really likes you and is really really bored so he doesn't mind doing the work. If he can weld, having him patch the panels is going to save you a ton of money, as long as he patches them correctly. And if he does know body work, you can save a pretty penny there as well. Just need to setup a communication schedule or visiting time arrangement it seems like. The replacement parts for the floor and rails cost 500 if memory serves. If you take it to a body shop, they are going to charge you that, plus labor, plus welding fees, plus whatever they want. Plus a paint job usually runs around 3k average from what I have shopped around, so unless you have 5k or so burning a hole in your pocket, you may be better off finding out the exact circumstance that this is being done under. If not follow the advice of others and pay him a friendly visit with food and drinks and talk about what really is going to happen and offer help to reach them. You can tell from a lot of the build threads on here, that body work and chassis repair isn't a day or two affair, it can take months upon months. And if the shop you pick charges an hourly fee, then you better have quite a bank roll to back up the decision.

I wasn't thinking permanently stuck, I was thinking sticking open during running. If you were on the high side of the duty cycle, it could happen, but if you aren't pushing the injectors very hard it is unlikely. If the engine flooded, either the fuel injectors dumped excess fuel, or the ignition source faltered. The injectors stayed open too long from being pushed in the duty cycle, or something went wonky with the internals. Is the car running at all right now? What happens if you turn the fuel pump on, do any of the injectors just spray fuel? Were they new injectors? How do you know it was hydrolocked with fuel? If the ignition source faltered, you would have to find out if it was the coil, distributor, spark plug, or spark plug wire. If spark stopped being supplied you could potentially flood the motor a bit, although I would imagine the fuel would eventually make it out either by running down the side of the cylinder or exiting into the exhaust manifold or something of that nature.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wipermotor/index.htm

Bah, I didn't read where he decided to go with the Z32 transmission. That actually may make this whole swap a lot easier since you can buy the trans mount from other sources. My R154 is damn near touching the tabs in the trans tunnel for the stock mounts. Badjuju had to remove his altogether to fit his.

Yea, if he is doing it for 200-300$ he must... A. Really really like you B. Not value his time at all (AKA bored) C. Somehow see this as an investment (perhaps for future customers?) D. Really underestimated the work involved (expect a reworked quote in the near future) E. Bit off more then he could chew (expect to call it quits after a few months of delays)

What is the duty cycle on the injectors? Only thing I can think of is that they locked open.

Glad you took the bullet, I was looking at a pair of kirkey RR seats for my next pair and the wings were a concern.

' Knew a guy who pieced one together on another forum. Intercooler is actually like a radiator. As long as it is sealed, it is kind of hard to mess up. It is probably one of the few things that you probably don't need to worry about. If you get really serious there are of course arguments on efficient design and pressure drop and all that, but for modest boost applications, the ebay stuff seems to be ok, as long as they don't have any manufacturing tid bits rolling around in it, that specific one is pretty short, you can fit a taller one in the s30. BOV was junk, machining in the sealing hole/face was bad, o-ring of inferior quality. Constantly leaked. Waste gate had bad casting marks, didn't run it so no info there. Turbo, he rebuilt using garrett internals and seals. Found that the center section isn't rated for modern oil pressure, had to run a restrictor to limit the pressure. There are reports of the impeller blades chipping once more modest levels of boost is reached. Install of the kit was boosting 9psi, didn't seem to have a problem. Piping, intercooler, and couplers were ok. The couplers are 3 ply usually, they will hold pressure but definitely have a bit of flex/ballooning in them. Turbo timer, generally not needed, unless you plan on boosting all the way to your destination and turning the car off right away. Unless your ebrake is really good, also presents the problem of being unable to park in gear. Boost controller, it is a simple system, and some have found success with the e-bay stuff. At worst they are suppose to fail open to revert to stock wastegate pressure, so not much danger, but also kind of a concern there. If you use this in conjunction with the unknown wastegate, then you may have problems. The gaskets, hoses, fittings, pipes, intercooler, and all that is pretty conveniently packaged, but the rest of it is pretty much a waste of time. A lot of honda people have tried the kits, and ended up swapping a lot of the parts very quickly. And just to be clear, I have bought a lot of stuff from ebay, some of the stuff is pretty decent. But a lot of the things aren't. What happens is that parts orders are placed. Once it is fulfilled, they have all this tooling. So they decide to release parts on their own. The proprietary info is taken away, or shortcuts are taken that the original manufacturer wouldn't have allowed, and the products are flooded onto the market. Sometimes you do indeed get a decent part, but at other times it really is a mere shell of what the part should be.

I defer to you newzed, that may very well be the case, I was told the oil frothing reason by the zparts guy that sold me the part. The hose has a bulge on one end to accommodate the bigger port for the crank case, and the rest of the hose is thinner to fit the pcv. I think I may actually have a very slightly used one if you need a picture/replacement.

Redrill the caliper? There is no bracket in the rear. You have to either purchase one or have one made up. Brackets are made to match the tabs on the calipers, you don't redrill the caliper to fit a bracket.

Wow, that is quite a bit of rust. Outside looks ok though. I agree with statements above. If you haven't paid him anything yet then the incentive isn't really there. Sure he will go tackle it when he is free, but there's no real motivation. If you really are friends, going over and spending time, with beer and pizza as suggested is a great way to move things along. With body work, an extra informed hand is always helpful. Keep in mind, hiring a non-professional friend may lead to less then desirable results. Only thing on the line is your friendship so be wary of that. If he is only asking for a couple hundred on top of the supplies to put in new floors, patch, fill, primer, and paint then you have yourself a bargain if he really knows what he is doing. If he really does know what he is doing, it is also going to take a while to smooth everything over. At the bare minimum for a rusted panel that needs to be painted: Cut out bad material Use as template to make new material Use butt joints/clamps/magnets/lip tool to place panel Tack panel Weld in panel Grind down welds to make it sit flush Then Sand surrounding material down to bare metal Mix filler Apply filler Sand filler Wipe down area Light top coat of contrast paint/primer to find high and low spots Sand again Wipe down area Mark low spots Reapply bondo Sand again Top coat to find high and low spots Sand again Wipe down area and clean up floor Primer for smoothness Sand again Wipe down area and clean up floor again Once smoothness is checked, reapply actual painting primer Paint Depending on paint, color sand with really fine grit Wipe down area and clean up floor again Top coat ^and that above is a mediocre job at best. If you are using new age fillers or lead filling and 2 part paints and stuff the steps seem nearly endless. It is time consuming to get it just right, and unless you are paying extra for that effort, or micromanaging each step the results are probably not going to be that great.

Crank vent hose, it routes the oil saturated air generated from the pistons moving up and down to the balance tube between the carbs to be burned.

Not trying to insult you, but did they come on the car, or with the car? If they came on the car, you won't be able to section them...if the previous owner sold you shorter struts to use for sectioning, disregard the comment above. Take note, mckinney says that their coilovers are valved differently then the S13 coilovers from megan. I personally think the 8k F, 6k R that they come with may be too much for the Z that's around 500lb/inch front and 350lb/inch rear. When I spoke with T3, they said a lot of their customers are happy with 185-200lb/in front and 200-225lb/in rear with ground controls. That's around 4kg/mm.

I've been slowly checking off the list above, and finding some more things here and there to add onto it which is why the list doesn't seem like it has progressed very much. Tighten or order a part here and add another item to the list there. So actually had quite a bit of progress today...regarding brakes! First got my rear brake lines squared away. My first problem was that on the driver side, the lines had rubbed together and had made a hole in the line, luckily I was parked when I found the problem. My second routing to prevent the lines from rubbing on each other worked quite well as far as I could tell. But, when I went under the car to route the fuel lines, I found that the line was actually touching the inside of the wheel. The lines looked fine, but definitely another possible failure point. So to definitely make sure that they could survive if they someone decided to rub in the future, I switched out my lines to a rubber coated stainless steel line from Agency Powers for the S13. I played around with the line for about an hour, playing with a jack to raise and lower the wheel to try and spot some problem areas. Eventually came to this configuration. Hopefully it will be problem free. It wraps neatly around the caliper, and avoids the axle and doesn't double up on itself under compression. I think in the future I will either move the chassis mounting point further up and inboard so the line makes an L towards the caliper. Or run two braided lines, one line to the strut, and then one line back to the chassis. Finally got around to installing the lines for the hydro brake as well. Ended up using 1/8th adapters to take advantage of the 1/8th npt outputs and adapters I had for the line lock and the proportioning valve. Ended up with that configuration, but really didn't like how tall the forward fittings was. So using my awesome ridgid flare set (basically an overbuilt regular flare set) I bent myself a little coupler. Then I used some 3/8-24 flare to 3 an adapters I had purchased along the way to shorten the height and even out the lengths on the braided lines so I can use one of my fuel line clamps to mount the whole setup against the chassis. Just need to tighten my clutch line and bleed the clutch and brakes and I should be all set on that part for the immediate future. Injectors have been found, and injector clips have finally arrived, so nothing should be stopping me from wiring up megasquirt. The intercooler piping needs a once over and I am going to attempt to roll some beads back into the piping to make sure that blowing off is not a possibility. I bought some nicer couplers to replace the more flimsy ones I got with my kit so that should be a fun little project. Total hours spent 110.

Yay, pictures! If you have a very detailed drawing (and I mean very detailed, with measurements, angles, and all that jazz) with which style you would like, I'm sure someone may be willing to take a look (cough cough). No promises or anything though.

If they were made out of steel, you technically could. I priced it out in the past, but it wasn't worth it from what I recall. You would have to notch the bottom of the tube, cut off the brackets possible turn down the flare at the bottom. Not to mention you still need to weld the, tube onto your spindles. On top of that you still need to get the camber plates for the top of the struts. Mckinney has the whole conversion kit for 290$ for the 4 tubes with the tops. That's pretty hard to beat.

^I don't believe so. If you are moving fast enough the air will find it's way through the fan opening. At low speed and idle, you need the shroud to block off the opening not directly in contact with the fan so that it pulls the air through the radiator rather then around it. Car looks great knuckleduster!

WizardBlack: Gotcha, I got fuel injection line for the interim, not carb line, I can see the nylong webbing, the gates line I bought supposedly has quite a few layers, they were charging 4$ a foot for it so hopefully it is decent. But I am leaning towards using it just as couplers and running hardline to the accessory. You can find the metal swivel 1/8 npt soft line fittings for a few dollars on pneumatic oriented sights, paintball uses them quite frequently, as do hydraulic supply stores for pneumatics as mentioned. Better spec lines can be ordered through your local hydraulics/pneumatics dealer. My local branch has been pretty helpful in trying to figure out some pretty unique compression fittings and strange pitch threads for work.

Really? That's great news! Still no pictures I see lol. So you have figured out the transmission mount and where the motor is going to sit and clearanced the trans tunnel? You are really moving along. I think the trans mounting took up far more time than the engine mounts did. Do you know what kind of mount you want? The betamotorsport style crossmember will still require welding. And a competent welder/fabricator you would have to hire, should be able to make up a mount in a couple hours.

Some from my library, keep in mind, my braces aren't anywhere close to the best way to do it, and some people may frown on the bends in the main hoop. But it does sit really close to the roof, I could weld a bead to the gusset plate for the roof if I took the headliner out. And my seat sits forward of the hoop so 0 chance of interference with a helmet. But you can see how the box mount interferes with the seat in the first picture. Really does limit your ability to recline. I think I have 1 click of recline and 4 or 5 clicks of forward adjustment. I'm 5'10 and my feet are almost straight to reach the pedals, but my arms have a 135 bend to the steering wheel.

Ah, I see, have you considered fuel cell foam? I am all for a surge tank, I think it is a great way to guarantee fuel gets to the engine, just the added cost of double everything is hard to justify (AN lines cost more per line then per foot, i.e. 3 foot line = 40$, 10 ft line = 60$) for me personally. Though if I ever hit fuel starvation, I'll be jumping right on board. Curious, is there a reason you want to run E85? 400hp doesn't seem too far of a stretch for a 2jz, and at least over here you can find 92/93 octane, while e85 is pretty hard to come by. Returnless is out of my knowledge range, so can't help you there. Would you use it just in the surge tank? From what I recall, you have to use a lot more E85 compared to regular gasoline, 6AN was only rated to 450 or so on gasoline, I would think that you would need bigger lines to the fuel rail. Most surge setups I see have bigger outlets then inlets. That's my 0.02, sorry if it doesn't help much, keep us updated on how things turn out, or your decisions and how you came by them. Sure to be useful down the road.

Oh yes, I've been keeping tabs for quite a while! The problem wasn't as much the pedals (if anything the pedals could be a little closer) as much as it was getting a little bit further away from the steering wheel. With the stock steering wheel I think I was at almost a 90* bend in my elbows holding the wheel at 3 and 9 with how far the box pushed the seats forward, and I don't have long arms by any means.