The Crusher

I've had the same thing happen to me, twice. New mounts, new motor, new radiator. It was my fan clutch not disengaging quick enough. I decided to go with electric fans, now all is good.

I'm in Sacramento, I used Driveline Service of West Sacramento. They have rebuilt several Z drive shafts and half shafts for me. They have also shortened and lengthened the drive shafts on my Jeep. They use good quality parts and do a good job on balancing.

I saw this on eBay, but it has an automatic transmission. But for the price, you can easily go manual. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-240z-1971-datsun-240-z-high-performance-small-block-conversion-project-/201078440160?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2ed13580e0&item=201078440160&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

pm'ed

Sorry for my late response. I lost track of this post. Anyway, do you still have that driver door. Would like to see it, if you could post a picture, that would be great. Thanks, Richard.

I'm in Sacramento, but no V8, sorry. But I did just put a fresh motor in my 240. It was looking really beat up, so I refreshed the engine bay too. I'll post some before and after, it might help. I would love to see your build so far. Sometimes talking with another Z enthusiast can give good motivation too. So far I think it looks pretty good.

I think I have it.

rk2334, I tried to post some picture, but I'm having on luck. If you pm your e-mail to me, I will send them to you. Thanks, Richard.

Ok, when I get home tonight, I will post some pics.

I have a brand new full dash cover for a 240z. It has the instructions and the glue adhesive with it. I'll sell it for $75 plus shipping. Let me know if you are interested, I can post some pictures. Thanks, Richard.

I would think that your choice will depend on your rear end gearing.

I am looking for a driver side door for my 71 240z. Only need the door shell. No glass, handle, hinges, or extras required. Also needs to be rust free, surface rust is acceptable. No big dents please,door dings are ok. (I found a good door, so I no longer need one.)

I have been daily driving my salvaged 71z for about 25 years. To me, a salvaged title is not a big deal, until I want to sell the car, which will be never. I feel like I'm getting my moneys worth every day. Love my Z!!!

I would check whatever was changed. Plugs, wires...ect. Look at the cap and rotor too, like daddydonuts said, check for spark on all plugs. I would think the carburetors are fine unless you changed something. My carburetors go dry after a couple of days so I have to pour a little gas in to get it started. Good luck.

Thanks for the reply Leon. I already had a new stock clutch waiting to go in when I bought the flywheel. Then I heard or read it somewhere that it was a bad combo. I guess I'll find out after I put it in. Like you said, it should be fine.

Does anyone know if using a stock clutch with a fidanza aluminum flywheel is ok. I heard you need to use a performance clutch with a lighten flywheel, but I'm not sure why. Any information would be great. I searched the forum but couldn't find what I was looking for. It's going in a 71 240, with a 5 speed, f54 block, flat top pistons, p90 head, and a stage 2 cam.

I have been running Webber carbs for about 20 years, and they are a good carberators. With that said, Apex, that "gold plenum" hooks up to the air cleaner, not the problem. But I would also say you have a vacumm leak,and I also saw that you are missing a NUT that is supposed to hold down the carb. It is on the front carb in the last picture you posted. That could also be part of your vacumm leak problem. Hope this helps.

I live in Sacramento, and theres a good drive line shop in West Sac. They have been there for 50 years and do great work. I just had 2 half shafts and a drive line done there last month. Took them about 2 days to finish.

Does the draw the go all the way to the bottom of the tank? Maybe there was a little left in the tank? No way to know for sure. Maybe I will run my tank dry and open the drain bolt to see what is left.

Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll try the hammer. Someone else told me to use a hammer too, but I was hoping for something a little cleaner. Thats ok, it will be covered up any way, I just want to get rid of the gas smell from my old tank. I just put all new hoses on and the tank is the last thing I need to change.

I need to replace the plastic expansion tank in my 71. I have a metal one out of a 72-73, but it is a little bigger/wider and does not bolt right in. Has anyone else tried this. I am looking for an easy way to do it without a lot of cutting involved. I could use a hammer but there has to be an easier way.

This is my daily driver since 1989, no plans to stop anytime soon.

That looks like it might be starving for fuel. I would also suggest a new fule filter and maybe dropping the tank. Also, what fuel pump are you running? Your fuel pressure needs to be about 3.5 psi. More and it will flood, less and it might stall.

mehas240z- You are just looking for the best idle and it is best to be between 1 to 2 turns out on the mixture screws. Even better at 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. You would rather be a little rich than to be to lean. As you turn out the screws and it gets rough, stop,and turn them back in until it smooths out. You want to be right at the edge of it. Again- you DON'T want to be to LEAN. Any thing under 1 turn out and you need to re-jet. Good luck. p.s. Re-jet in small steps. Very important. One size at a time.

http://www.carburetion.com/weber/adjust.htm This is a good reference for adjusting your webbers. I think you were too far out on the mixture screws, they need to be between 1 1/2 to no more than 2 turns out and give you a good idle. (If a good idle can not be had then you are too rich or too lean. Less then 1 1/2 out for a good idle and your too rich. More then 2 turns out and you are lean.) Then the idle screw can be ajusted and can be no more than 2 turns in. If more than 2 turns in are needed for a good idle than you are lean. By opening the idle screw more than 2 turns, you are creating a rich condition. I hope this helps.