The Crusher

I had a little time tonight so I decided to pull the shifter out again. As I go to pull off the shift knob, it's tight, but felt a little funny. It's a wooden knob with a metal insert, and the insert has developed a little play between itself and the wood. Needless to say, the rattle is coming from the knob. A test drive confirmed it. Glad it was cheap and easy. Thanks for the feedback, it helped in the long run.

"Drive shaft in balance?" I ment to say, Yes.

Factory nylon.

I have a 71, 240z, with an early 5 speed transmission that was rebuilt some years ago, maybe 10 or so. The shifter rattle is louder and more noticeable in 1st, 3rd, and 5th, but is happening in all gears. It feels and sounds like bad shifter bushings, so I pulled the shifter and all the bushings are in great shape. If I hold the shifter, it gets quiet and feels pretty smooth, just a little sloppy. The motor feels smooth and I'm not hearing any odd noises. I'm just looking for some insight before I start tearing my car apart, and hoping for an easy fix too...lol

I have a 71, 240z, with an early 5 speed transmission that was rebuilt some years ago, maybe 10 or so. The shifter rattle is louder and more noticeable in 1st, 3rd, and 5th, but is happening in all gears. It feels and sounds like bad shifter bushings, so I pulled the shifter and all the bushings are in great shape. If I hold the shifter, it gets quiet and feels pretty smooth, just a little sloppy. The motor feels smooth and I'm not hearing any odd noises. I'm just looking for some insight before I start tearing my car apart, and hoping for an easy fix too...lol

What a WORK OF ART! I've been following this thread for months, and to see it in the engine bay. Just AWESOME! Great job Derek!

I don't have a panel, but I can tell you what I did. I had some body rot like that, and a body guy told me about a place that does body repair with zinc. They media blast the area and then apply a thick zinc coating. The zinc will stop the rust and is easy to work with, at least that is what my body guy said. The place is called American Stripping, and they are in Sacramento, you can look them up online. Or you might find someone closer to you that does this kind of repair. Also, it was not that expensive, compared to cutting and welding, and then grinding, and all the time to make look right again. This is almost like zinc bondo. Good luck.

You can try unplugging it from the power source, if there is no backup battery to the alarm, the car should start. Also, the relay that interrupts the starter should be tied into the wiring on the steering column. The wires that plug into the back of your starter switch. I will say that my Viper alarm has been the BEST car alarm I have ever owned. Good luck, I hope it works out for you.

Forgot to mention that I'm close to you, I'm in Sacramento, so pickup is possible. Thanks. Richard

l have an N42 head just sitting around, it's on a running motor with a lot of miles. It's an N42 combo. I'd be willing to separate the two. I'd like to get $150 for the head, if you don't like the price, please feel free to make an offer. Or if you want the whole thing, just let me know.

Just got it out of the body shop in May. It is a Nissan color though.

I took some pictures, I'm thinking $40 plus shipping, let me know if you are interested.

I'm in Sacramento with a N42 head. Sorry not LA, but close.

I should have one in my garage. When I get home from work I will look for it.

I know you said a set of su carbs. But I have a set of Weber DGV's that just came off a running 240z 1 month ago. Carbs are about 2 years old and come with 2 boxes (kits) of extra jets. PM me if you are interested. I will let them go cheap.