CantZme

All 350 sbc's are not the same. Some are 4 bolt main cranks and some are 2 bolt, each with it's own advantages. Compression ratio is also something that will vary from engine to engine, which needs to be taken into account if u plan on boosting or just want to be making good power. Some are also EFI and some are carbed. Examine your options before buying anything and have a PLAN of what u want (power, economy, future build plans), because if u don't, u'll end up spending A LOT more in the end.

so what's under the hood?

honestly, it really depends on how handy you are, how much rust there REALLY is and your bank account. Paying some1 else to do the job is always going to cost you more than doing it yourself(obvious I know) and if there is a significant amount of rust that needs to be removed and repaired than u might just be better off buying another Z. check out the classifieds to see what's on the s30 market right now, figure out how much the repairs will cost you and make a decision. how is the overall condition of the car otherwise? Parting out the car(as said earlier), is a great idea so that u can get some funds for another Z...and who knows, u might be able to get more parting it out than u paid for it...

I don't know how much power you're lookin for or what caracteristics you're lookin for in the turbo, but search "hy35" and you'll be impressed. The turbo is good for a good 400+ hp and can be found cheap since it comes off the dodge 5.9 cummins turbo diesel trucks( can be found for less than $300 on ebay)

+1 ^

Why not the l28et (turbo motor from ZX)? The swap is very straight forward and compression is already 7.4:1 (good for gobs of boost) Many are seeing 300whp with minor fuel managment, turbo and cooling upgrades. No need to rebuild an l28et if ur not looking for too much power and they can be had pretty darn cheap ($500 more or less). The l28et uses the f54 block which is the strongest of the L series blocks and also uses the p90 head which is the best flowing of the L series heads. If you're still stuck on the supercharger, then an L28et is still a gr8 base since you can sell the turbo parts such as the manifolds(since you'll probably have a custom intake manifold for you setup), turbo and other random parts, but then again that's just my .02 cents

how much boost pressure?

nice choice of color, very true to it's time...keep us posted on your progress and start a thread for your project in the member's projects section of our forum

wow, u really get over things quickly and git 'er done...u need to post videos of this BEAST as soon as u get her tuned and running well

please keep the turbo motor!

oops, i missed the "no EFI"...my bad:mrgreen:

from what i understand, the e88 will likely bring compression up higher than 10:1? someone correct me if i'm wrong:rolleyesg... wouldn't it be a better idea to just pick up an l28 with flattops and a p79 and just port that head instead? the p79 is the stock head(no quench issues here), i think it flows better and you'll keep compression down as well(87 octane baby!). with the money you save, get a mild cam and you should EASILY be able to reach your goal with some fine ignition and EFI tuning. then again, that's just my .02 cents... -Adam

very nice, i like the finish very much...any plans to ditch the bumpers? i think the car would look amazing with out them

i'm green with ENVY...the sound of an LS1 with open headers is euphoria. nice work, keep us updated

how can u let deck height pose itself as a problem? it's nothing an oversized cowl hood can't fix, right?

nice looking zx u got there

74 260z, no bumpers and shaved sidemarkers, stock block and CR l28et(64,500 on the motor when it came out of the donor), t3/t4 (stock hotside), but specs unknown since it came with the motor. 437cc ford injectors, MSNS v2.2, 3in dp and exh., summit plastic 15 gallon fuel cell, tockico adjustables and energy polyurethane bushings all around. stock 4 speed and r180 waiting to be pulled for N/A 5 spd and non lsd R200 that are sitting in my garage. Many other supporting fuel and ignition mods, but who cares? 2 years in the making and still not running... =( damn I can't wait to drive this thing @ 15psi

with piping that large on an N/A motor you're going to lose a lot of power and your car will be disturbingly loud;however, if u must, get a good shop to madrel bend an exhaust for you or just get some U- bends and some straight piping and weld away. BTW your 1jz motor swap will probably cost twice what you have budgeted and will take way more time than expected, so down time for your ride can be a lot longer than you think... look into everything a little more and keep your options open...bcuz u might end up having to live with an annoying 3" exhaust for longer than expected + with all the tickets you get, you might just end up wasting more money than doing the cat-back twice...just my $.02

looks gorgeous, very tasteful choice of color...now we just need some videos of some smoky burnouts!!!

"This is the ONLY Diesel Powered 280Z in the U.S of A" Pretty bold statement to make:rolleyesg

damn, L6's are getting tossed everywhere I look...

250-300bhp n/a isn't as easy as many think from a l28e, but with some serious head work(valves, springs) and porting(port match intake manifold as well) paired with an aggressive cam + supporting mods such as i/h/e, ignition, fuel system and a standalone like Megasquirt you can expect anywhere from 200-250bhp(wishful thinking), but 300bhp is almost impossible without a stroker or high compression build. if money is an option, go turbo, but u could of learned all that from using the "search" button.

any info will help, so please feel free to put in your 2 cents...

hey guys I have everything hooked up according to the installation guide but my fuel pump is not turning on when I try starting the car. I'm currently running a tune that the MS was previously running off of (the car had started with this tune, but I decided to rewire the whole thing due to half assed install that was hacked onto the car when I paid some backyard mechanic to install it). When I try to start the car I am getting no power to the pump and I'm getting a clicking noise from the injectors and and the relay board as well (maybe the injectors are opening?) but this only happens when the key is in the on position. I have all the injectors grounded to the inj1 inj2 terminals on the long side of the board and getting power to the injectors from the 12V side of the board. The fuel pump power is connected to the fp terminal on the board and grounded where the pump is mounted in the rear (pump is a walbro 255). I know there is defenitely something wrong because the fuel pump works when I run it str8 to the battery, but it will not work when connected to the board and switched power is on...

what a car, stock internals that make the 2JZ look girly, IRS, and a throaty american DOHC V8 exhaust note for south of 30grand, what more can u ask for? congrats on the purchase, u make me so jealous