CantZme

the product is made by pcl automotive and this is the tech sheet, http://www.pclautomotive.com/Product_Profile/polyprimer013007.pdf. I shot 2 coats of the poly primer today; however, the areas that had filler applied to them are lighter and visible through the primer. 2 coats of etching primer were shot first and then the poly primer was shot. I added 10% urethane reducer to the primer as a nearby body shop advised me to do. Should I add shoot another coat of primer?

thanks for the responses guys, but It says that it's a polyester hi filler primer surfacer, so I don't think it's urethane. The can of the primer states that it doesn not need to be reduced, but to use acetone if reducing is necessary. It is smart to reduce this primer enough to shoot through a 1.7mm gun?

I am about to shoot my 260z with pcl self etching primer and have a few ?'s before I begin. I have filled some of the body with bondo and used a glazing putty over the filler. The shop I bought my supplies from sold me everything including the paint and clear. I was given PCL polyprimer and told to shoot it over the PCL self etching primer and then paint; however, I have been told from a few people that a urethane primer must be used over the poly primer before paint. I have contacted the shop and the salesman says that it isn't necessary. What's the deal here? I really don't want to screw up my first paint job. I also asked him about the thickness of the poly primer and he told me to put 20% reducer; however, some have told me not to reduce the poly primer and just use a large nozzle gun. This would pose a problem because I only have one gun with a 1.7mm nozzle and it cannot be changed since it isn't manufactured. Is it a bad idea to reduce the poly primer for the 1.7mm nozzle? Must I use urethane primer over poly primer? Please help!!

haven't taken anything apart yet actually. just want to collect all the necessary parts before I do the job. doesn't the r180 connect to the driveshaft by means of a u joint? i was under the impression that the r200 would require a yoke to connect to the late 260 driveshaft.

need a yoke for a late 260z from the driveshaft to diff. trying to install an open r200 from an 82 zx. anyone know who sells these or the part #? I can't seem to find one at a junkyard and the classifieds isn't helping much. any help is appreciated

looking to purchase a driveshaft/differential companion flange from a 280z so that I may swap an r200 from an 82zx into my late 260z. Also looking for the modern motorsport adaptors so that the r200 may be fitted with z31 axles if anyone has them. please pm me with a price if you have either.

yeah the sanding aint working right now, the die grinder seems to be cutting into the metal so I'd rather not. The propane torch sounds like it might be worth while, I'll try that, thanks guys.

I'm currently stripping my 260 down to bare metal for new paint. I have stripped the majority of the car, but some areas have bondo that are almost impossible to chip out with a chisel(previous patching). I would like to refill my body work with duraglass fiberglass filler and would like to know if it's ok to lay it over the difficult to remove bondo. I understand that many use bondo over fiberglass filler for a smooth finish so I'd like to know if it's ok to do this vice versa(fiberglass over bondo). p.s. I plan to cover the body work with etching primer and urethane primer before paint.

i dont think i did this right, my car wont start now. how much draino do I need?

Wow, great project bro, should be a monster...keep us posted by starting a thread in the members projects forum for your ride. good luck

+1 for johnc's idea of going turbo... I dont know about the clearance of turbos and manifolds, but that would probably be one of the most cost effective solutions and the vg30 can make 350whp safely...just my .02, good luck

haha...sell the ass check print on ebay

love the car, really suprised i haven't seen that thing around the valley, is this just a weekend warrior?

email me at azouri86@yahoo.com for pics. 77 280z with 4 speed manual tranny. needs rear brakes and paint, but motor and trans are in great shape, asking $1100.

do you have any pictures of the car as it sits?

gti ftw. less mass!

jeff, You don't sound too enthusiastic about the way this turned out. What I really mean is that it looks pretty good from the pictures you posted, what gives? You don't think the buffing would help?

any goldfish left? let's try to get this groupbuy going

I liked the old wheels too, but honestly I like the direction you're headed with the RB's, go for it. See you at MSA brotha!

just called this guy and he says that he's been running the 280z 5speed and that it's holding the so called "600hp" just fine. I'm calling BS for sure. Still not a bad deal if the crank and rotating assembyl are forged, but no way to find out.

very nice, what were your a/f's like?

Yeah, those are the stubs I was talking about and I do have turbo cv's from a z31 turbo. would you recommend I go with the rt top mount as well? thanks for the response btw

I have a diff that I've been waiting to swap into my 74 260z (280 body style) and I'm kind of confused about the details of the swap when searching through threads. I understand that a 240z would need the side stubs from a 280z when swapping in the r200, but I have a late 260 which is pretty much the 280 body. To my understanding, I don't need side stubs for a CV conversion?? I have z31 CV's and as of now I'm looking for a 280 mustache bar, a yoke flange,front diff mount and the MM adaptors for the CV conversion. Do I need side stubs and if so, will the ones from the 260z work if I do(i read somewhere that the spline count is the same as the 280?) Please clear this up for me guys I have tried searching and just get more confused everytime. here is what I think I need as of now 1. z31 CVs 2. yoke 3. 280z mustache bar 4. MM adaptors 5. side stubs from a 280z? 6. front diff mount from a 280z please point me in the right direction