CantZme

welcome to the best Z site on the web, may your time here be informative..

congrats my friend, you and your car deserve it...sweet RBZ

looks sweet, I can see you finally got rid of that red oversprayed muffler...

damn justin, i'm loving the powder coated valve cover, turned our beautiful

why the vq30de-k? the vq30de has standard intake manifold unlike the variable intake manifold on the k which uses a solenoid to open/close... I'm thinking the earlier vq30de's are better candidates because they are plentiful, cheap and don't use any variable intake manifolds, so complexity is down to a minimum, since you are going turbo. They are extremely cheap and a couple of guys are seeing 500whp on stock blocks. I assume that if you can mate a vq30de-k to a z33 6speed, then this should be possible(the only difference between the two is the manifold and a more aggressive cam on the k)

thanks bro, that would be greatly appreciated

the only map I found was the one you posted with your 8psi setup,which I was planning to use; however, I was hoping to possibly start with a tune from someone who had used a wideband. Nevertheless, thanks for your response and the installation write up as well, I would have never figured this Ms thing out by myself:wink:

Nice looking z bro, that thing looks like it gets up, I'm sure the guy in that integra thinks so too;) What's your setup like(boost, turbo, injectors)?

anyone willing to share base fuel/timing maps for something along the lines of stock boost (7psi) L28et setup? I/c'ed, 437cc CFI ford inectors, 3in dp to exh. and everything else is pretty much stock. Running v2.2 with the flyback board and running ignition off the CAS. I want a base fuel map that I can hopefully improve on when I start tuning with the wideband and I want to get a good foundation. Any help is appreciated...and btw I searched.

ditch the 2mm hg, it'll just lower compression, which is already REALLY low @ 7.4:1. Off boost response will be horrible and the stock compression can already handle an excess of 20psi(depending on mods)...ditch the HG, it'll only hold u back from your goal of 275 WHP

hey guys, finally about time to tune my MS for my l28et setup. I haven't really had much experience with performance shops as i tend to do most of my work at my father's auto shop. For the single reason that i've never tuned, i want to watch and learn before i tune myself to prevent any rookie mishaps. Does anyone know of a good dyno shop or tuner in the 818 area(or around) that is familiar with MS1 and the l28et motor? I am also looking for anyone who can properly tune MS with or without a shop because my father owns a smog dyno that can be used as a dummy to make 3rd and 4th gear pulls. Anyone and everyone who can help me please inquire; and of course I will pay anyone who decides to help me out. Fuel maps are welcome as well , as they can be a great basis to work off of. Here is what my setup is going to be: 83 l28et (triggering MS from CAS) MSNS V2.2 running flyback board t3/t04e (50trim) Perrin EBCS(hoping to run off MS like the typhoon solenoid) 3in dp and exhaust 437cc ford injectors just want to push 7-10lbs max right now as i still have an r180 and get really paranoid about demolishing it, but hoping to use the ebcs utilizing the duty cycle feature for boost to setup variable boost. All comments and complaints are welcome as i know we all love to flame:icon54:

using the search function would probably be your best course of action, but i would suggest to read up on reworking the l26 (the motor that comes in the car) with a mild cam, porting your stock head and bolt-ons or maybe check out the l28e (came in all 280z and zx models). I could be wrong but i think all l28's are fuel injected. realistically, i would save the hassle and keep the l26.There are many other motors out there, but all l- series are drop in and require minimal work to swap. Depends on what u want really. RB25de's and other rb's are readily available to you guys down under so just keep reading and keep your options open. just my .02

very nice, congrats on the progress , i'm probably gonna have to borrow those MS files when u clean em up and get a solid tune btw:biggrin: since i am going to be running stock boost with 437cc green top ford injectors as well for the time being

roostmonkey, is that a stock cam setup? how are u making those kind of numbers at such low boost? suprising what kind of numbers these oudated low compression single cam motors can make with a few mods...

can't wait to see what kind of #'s this beast puts out...have u flow tested the head btw?

h/c/i + all bolt ons and then some

webezeeed, what is your head/block combination? depending on your head and your compression, your target a/f will differ.

u can't let this thread die and get buried in the archives!!! keep it going guys!

I think a dyno section would definetely need a moderator to verify dyno numbers using dyno sheets and updating as new #'s are come. Correcting hp according to different dynos and all of mumbo jumbo would just make it too difficult to maintain and formal IMHO. Something a little less formal and less serious is what we need, just so future L6 owners can see what to expect roughly when modding. The guys on honda-tech did the same and it has turned into a massive archive of dyno numbers which has served as a tool to many with their builds, seeing what works and what doesn't.

is that whp or fwhp?

can we get some L6 dyno sheets and #'s posted? it would be nice to see what kind of power everyone is putting down with what mods...i know i can search and find what i'm looking for but i think we should have a single thread for L6 dyno #'s (turbo and NA)...unfortunately i have not dynoed mt l28et yet so i have nothing to start this thread with let's see what your datsuns are made of!

check it... http://www.hybridconnection.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2033&osCsid=8691a2c21d6179afeba89a50a3d96605

link is dead

as far as compression goes, u might want to lower it a little just to insure your motor. Generally 10.5CR is not a safe compression ratio for a boosted application, but with good tuning using a wideband or dyno with some high octane gas u should be able to prevent detonation. I would recommend using the HKS 2mm headgasket as well, which would bring your compression down to mid 9's i'm guessing. You'll still have great off boost response and build boost quickly wth a compression ratio in the 9's but you'll be able to run your desired boost without worrying.