Ed260Z

Thanks, do you know the link that documents the replacement? If I remember correctly he used some tubing in some of the bends so that the hose would not colapse on the tight ones.

I saw a post a few weeks ago where someone posted a link to a fuel line repair where they made their own hoses. But for the life of me I can't find it again. I've been searching for a few days now, and have gone through hundreds of posts. That's how I found this one. I think he spent less than $50 for the whole thing. I like the Idea of keeping the stock expansion tank if I can get the lines repaired. For now I've priced out some SS braid from Summitracing @ around $125. Much cheaper than MSA's $250. And it will probably last longer. Still not sure what I'm going to do. I can't even fill the tank because the fuel would spill out of the Vent lines.

Has anyone tried their exterior LED's yet?

For those of us who have an S30 with a mechanical clock, here is a quick fix for most of us. This should take about 10 to 15 minutes if you take your time. (No pun intended) Remove the front lens from your clock, and then take the 3 5.5mm nuts off the back of the housing. Carefully slide the mechansim away from the housing. Inspect the gears to see if anything looks broken in there. You shouldn't have anything flapping around loose in there. Carefully spray some silicon lube on all of the gears, as well as the elec motor. With a pick gently start moving the gears a little. Start with the big gear by the motor. spray some more lube, and work your way up the chain. The higher you go the more pressure you will need to spin the gears. BE VERY CAREFUL those gears a delicate. Once the gears are moving freely connect the clock to a power source of some kind. I used one of my R/C 7.2 Volt battery packs. But I guess that as long as it's not more than 12 volts it will be OK for this test. With and luck you will here it tick. FFFFeeeeewwww Clean up your mess, and put back in your car. Pat yourself on the back. The fact is that most Z clocks are not "Broken", they just need some lubrication. These Clocks are not know for keeping great time. That said my clock is off by about 1 min a month. Not bad for a 32 year old clock.

Sorry to hear that they didn't work as well as you thought they would. I was hopeing for some good news, as I to am looking to add some life to my interior lights. Se La Vi.

I hope you do well on your Finals. School is way more important right now than the car.

Hey Q, I haven't seen an update on your car in a while. How's it going? It seems the board has been a bit quiet lately, I guess the holidays or the cold have been keeping people away from their cars.

The charge light needs to be connected to the #5 wire. So at the very least the diode keeps the current seperated between the two. And the charge light functions properly.

How about the cap & rotor?

OK I got the alt to start charging @ 1200 RPM. This is what is also stated on the Alt spec sheet. How your asking? (for what seems to be the very few who want to know) I used a Diode between the 1&5 wires. Then connected one end of a bulb to those wires and the other end of the bulb to a Ign "ON" power source. Now this acts like a Charge Light, and provides resistance to the circuit. This resistance excites the alt into making power. Once the Alt is "on" the bulb goes out. I'm not sure if the diode is actually doing anything though. But that's how I tested the circuit, and if I upgrade to a higher AMP alt I will need it anyway so it will stay. Now I just need to figure out how to get the fuel pump to work right. Thanks Carnut for your input. You got me to realize what I was doing wrong with the Charge light circuit. Although I'd rather not lose the safety feature of the pump shut off, personally.

Anyone???????????????????????????????????????????????? I know there more than a few 260Z owners on this site. And with all of the knowledge floating around someone must know, or think they know, how to get this done.

I'd say it's the front diff mount. They will feel OK even if they are bad. You don't know they are bad until you feel the thump in the back.

Well it seems that the 260Z is the Red Headed Stepchild of the Z family. Iv'e had to make a revision to the conversion as outlined by Z Car Creations. On the 260Z the #2&3 wires should be connected not the 2&5. This allows for the alt to get the proper signal, and regulate the voltage properly. The Elec fuel pump has stopped working, and the Alt will not get excited until it gets to about 3.5K RPM. (I think this has to do with the lack of the charge light, that provides some resistance.) I've emailed Phil (Blue) from the Atlantic Z Club in Canada to see if he has any ideas. But if any one has any ideas please chime in.

This might be a stupid question, but why do you need to eliminate the expansion tank if you have a stock fuel tank? I can understand it if you install a fuel cell.

Ok he has 2 brake kits. But the 13" rotors look like the Caliper is to small. What good is it to have a huge rotor, if you can't clamp down on it.

Long list there. The "Long" nose R200 looks alot like the 180 you have now, and it's by far the easier swap to do. The only real differeance between the diffs is the gear ratio. The short nose is a pain to install and requires alot of fabrication. Unless your dropping a MONSTER motor there is no need. And if you go with a short nose get a R200 or R230 out of a Q45. An 87-89 300ZX LSD (Clutch Type) should all go for the same price. Same Diff. The odd ball VLSD is another story. But I'd say just get the 300ZX LSD if you can. Remember not to pay to much for a used LSD though. I've seen some STUPID prices on these. I just could not pay more than $400 for a used LSD when I could get an Open R200 for about $100, and then buy a NEW LSD for $500. But Whatever

Thier rear is basicly the the 280ZX rotor with maxima caliper and braket. These are some really big brakes, and you need big wheels to go over them, 16" min. I like the Arizon Z brake kit more though. Not to mention that it's less expensive. Modern Motorsports has some nice stuff, but their price's are high.IMO. I'd probably only get their driveshaft adapters, since I can't find anyone else making them for less with a good rep.

www.Summitracing.com They have them on sale right now. I like the Crane PS-60 coil myself, but get what you like.

It doesn't look all that bad. The Rad support looks unsalvageable though. The frame rails are probably out of allignment too. You can use a rad support for any S30 to replace the one that's trashed, and I'd replace the Frame rail "While your at it" to a heavier gauge box. The inner fenders look like they can be staightened back out. Find a GOOD Frame shop and have them do the work. As far as selling it, that's a judgement call. If you don't plan on getting another Z dump it. If you want a Z get a quote to repair it, and weight that against getting a new car. And doing all the work you've done so far all over again. Just my 2 cents. Ed

Well I don't think that they're right. I think that it's great that you used your own inginuity to make your own "kit". It almost sounds like everyone hear is trying to flame you for not getting the Arizona Z kit. (Is Arizona Z selling shares in their company that I'm not aware of.) If it wasn't for people with your creativity forums like this one would never exist. All you would hear is "What are you stupid you can't install #$@# in that". Granted I'll be getting the Arizona Z kit myself since there isn't enough of a cost savings to make the fabrication worth it, but I admire your efforts. Keep it going.

The pic doesn't look messed with, it just that the angle makes it look shorter than it realy is. And if you look close it's about 2" of the ground. That thing has been Slamed. After I put the Tokico (CRAP) springs on my car it droped almost 2 1/2", and it looked smaller to me too.

Sounds good to me. I'll be ordering a set from you soon.