Ed260Z

No expert here, but the 25 has stronger internals, and the Tranny can handle the power. The 20 would need to be bored out, then new pistons, rods, and crank. That will bring over what the 25 is to begin with, and you still need the tranny out of the 25, since the 20's tranny just won't hold up. But like I said at the start I'm no expert, so this is what I've gathered reading through all of the post so far, and some of my own experience Hot Rodding cars.

My biggest concern is that the Progressive front springs are going to compress as soon as I put some weight on them. And leave with only 2-3 inches of travel. My rear springs are the worse, and really sagging. Th 30yrs old + fronts are not in to bad a shape, but I would like the ride height lower. But not in the weeds.

Holy Cow Batman. That is a seriously sweet looking engine. Just one more reason to like the RB26DETT. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101994

Where did you get that clear cover from? Looks sweet with everything all blinged out under there.

So what have you done to your motor? If you are getting over 450Hp with the RB25 I might go that route instead of the RB26.

CLEAR:twisted: That sound like it would be very cool. Ofcourse then you would have to bilg out that whole section.

I'm looking for between 350-400Hp to start. (Tight budget) Put as I tweak out the car, and I have the money to spend I will start to up that number. When I'm done I want around 550-600Hp, but who knows I may want more. I know the the RB25 block could handle that power, but that's at it's limits. And I don't know about you, but I don't like the idea of have to rebuild this motor because it couldn't take the power. Also the RB26 Lets itself easier to get more power than the RB25. And from what I've seen it's cheaper to get 600Hp out of the RB26 plus it will be more reliable while doing it. Just my thoughts based on the information that I've read so far.

Actually I ment the Timing Belt Covers. What pan are you useing? None of the RB20 pans that I've seen have had that indentation at the bottom. In fact they all look alot like the stock L series pan.

I'm going to get the same Kit in a few days, and i'd like to know just how much it lowered the car. I've read on some posts that it dropped so low they couldn't even drive, and others said it dropped the 1" I'm looking for. I've got 205/60/15's on the car now (because I wanted to keep the stock tire size.) This car is a daily driver until I get my new company car. Next spring I'll be dropping an RB motor into her to replace the stock L26 that's in it now. So the weight up front should be about the same. Anyone have an answer about how much the car will drop with the Tokico Spring Set?

Just curious, but why did you switch out of the Tokico springs? Was there something wrong with them?

I'd say a 3.9 or 4.11 would be ideal. I'm still debating myself which to go with. My car will be mostly street driven with the occasional drag. (Up the Boulevard:-D ) The 3.9 rear, I think, will give me more flexibility, but the 4.11 will give me a faster 1/4 mile time. Ahh decisions, decisions.

As far as I know any tranny that will bolt onto the RB25 will bolt onto the RB26. This is why most people want to use the GTS tranny in a RB26 converion to RWD. (Simply plugging the transfer case on the AWD tranny is NOT the way to go.) If you want to do a AWD Hybrid with the RB25 I'll trade you the AWD tranny for your RWD GTS tranny.

I don't see how it could make any real difference. I'd go with whichever side you prefer to sit in while your driving.

Mine are Red. I know that Summit has them since that's who I got mine from.

Did you put any bracing on the tunnel, in the interior? I like the way that is done. Since I'm big on the "Stock Look"

Very nice, and informative site you got there. But I though you where going to change the color on the Cam Covers before you put them on?

OK, so a twin turbo only increases the volume of air, not the pressure?

Alot of good info there, thanks. But since I din't know all that much yet about turbos. I'll guess that 1.0bar is around 10lbs of bost, and 1.2bar is about 15lbs. Is that right?

Is there any way to mount a 4 point half cage with out loseing the factory seat belt retractor? All the ones I've seen mount in that pocket. I'm looking at the cage more for rigidity than saftey. The S30 chassis is so old that the only way to make the car safer would be to put in a full racing cage. I've already resigned my self to the fact that if I ever got slamed on the side I could kiss my A$$ good by.

The energy suspension kit is the way to go. I noticed a huge difference in my car already, and I have not even installed them all yet. Keep in mind that it does not include the front sway bar bushings, since there are different sizes available. You can try Jegs or some other discount retailer, but Summit has a great reputation and good prices.

Anyone know how much "useable" "safe" boost you can get out of the stock RB26DETT turbo's? I think the the factory sets it at 12lbs combined, which seems low for a twin turbo set up. (@ only 6lbs per) For the start of this project I'm only looking to do some mild mods to the engine to get the power around 350-400 Hp. As I get the rest of the car tweaked out I'll gradually up that. But for now I'm just looking to re-flash the ECU and get a boost controller.

What car can I get a 3.9 LSD out off? I like the idea of a basically bolt in mod, with the long nose R200 LSD. I don't want to do a ton of fabrication just yet, since I'm trying to keep the project around $6K for the driveline. I'm already in the process of beefing up the suspension, and the chassis will be in the spring. Followed up very shortly with the engine. In total I'm estimating about $8K not including any paint and body.