Ed260Z

Are you selling them?

You can get a RB25DET (Turbo) motor, tranny, Harness and ECu for about $2,700. $300 for new motor mounts. And another $500 to $1,000 for the rest of the stuff.

Is that a 240Z bumper? Your car looks like it's a 260Z. Did you use 240Z mounts or shorten the stock bumper shocks? Sorry to hear that you dumped it. But it does look sweet.

I dont know off hand what color is which, but if I understand corectly you need an ignition on hot wire. The easiest way would be to get a voltmeter and check all the wires from the stock harnes to the gauge.(6 I think) with the Ign off. Then turn the key to the on position and see which one goes hot. Hope that helps. Ed

The stock turbo should be fine for that power range. just get some cams and a boost controller the stock bottom end and head will hold up just fine. 240Z Master is documenting a full install into an S30, you may want to pm him to get more info. http://www.livesockets.com/quoc/rb

I think that he is trying to keep the wireing as simple as possible. Nevermind that it will take forever to track down the right wire, and he'll still need the MSD adapter. If your getting a Autometer Tach, why not get the matching Speedo? BTW you shouldn't throw stone in a glass house, name calling is not a good idea! As for me I want to find a way of keeping the stock tach. I'm going for the stealth look. The speedo is easier since there is a company called Abbott Enterprises making an adapter called a Cable X. It costs about as much as a new Elec. speedo. so if no one can help me wire the stock tach to the RB I'll just get all new gauges for the car. So tell me Jamie T, do you know how to hook up the stock tach?

It sounds like you need to richen up your carbs a bit or check the floats in the carb. If the floats are too low it could also cause it to lean out at high RPM. The reason you are noticing it more with the PS91 is because it has much more spark energy than the Accel coil, and burning more fuel. You are tuning it in after the engine gets nice and warm right?

It sounds like what was happening to my 260Z. The problem I had was that the generator was not making enough juice at low RPM, and would occationaly stop at high RPM. I'm sure it was the regulator. I decided to swap in an internally regulated alt from a ZX. The swap is easy to do. And my parts store took the my old generator as a core. The swap cost me $45, and it has a lifetime warranty. Problem solved.

It sounds like you could have a few different problems there. Have you done any modifications to the electrical system in the car? I would start by checking any of the work you already did, to make sure everything is hooked up right. Then I would check all the wires to make sure that they are in good condition. For the head lights I'd get a relay system installed to take all the load off of your headlight switch. I got mine from Summit Racing, but there are alot of places you can get them from. You can also make one yourself. Good Luck.

I like the carbon fiber look. I've always been more of a fan of the "Old School" bullet mirrors. Maybe carbon fiber Bullet Mirrors?

Can you get a RB26DETT with a GTS Tranny combo?

I double checked the wire schematic for a ZX, and they stoped useing a shunt in 78. I'd double check the 4 Fusible links, and make sure that they are in good condition.

If I'm not mistaken the the 280ZX has Shunt connected in the chargeing system. It sounds like that is what might be causing you all of the trouble.

How do you know that this is from a R33? I don't see it listed anywhere in the listing.

I did this swap inorder to get rid of the external regulator. I got an early 280ZX alternator from my parts store, but there are others that you can use. For the alternator swap go to www.zcarcreations.com (great directions). You only need the diode if you are installing an alternator with more than a 70amp rate. I took the regulator apart so that I would have plenty of wire at the end of the plug. I'll cut it to length after everything is running right. Now lets install the Voltmeter from a 280Z. I decided to keep the Shunt (Since it does not allow the full amps to go through the cars wireing). 1) Unplug the the small connecter from the shunt, these wires supply the power to the Ampmeter. Pull one of the wires from the plug. I pulled the soild white white one from the plug, but it does not matter which one as long as you remember. 2) Then pull the disconnected wire out of the the rubber boot, and plug the connecter back into the shunt. The one still connected to the shunt will be your power wire for the gauge. 3) Connect the disconnected wire from the shunt to the unused Black wire from the Alternator conversion. This is now the ground for the Gauge. 4) Remove the wires from the Amp/Fuel Gauge and transfer them to the Volt/Fuel gauge. The Fuel gauge wires are identical. Use the light from the amp gauge on the volt gauge. 5) To attach the wires to the Voltmeter side cut the Wht/Red & Wht wires, leave them long, and atach them to the Voltmeter gauge. The Wht/Red attaches to the wire with the red sleeve on it. (Power Wire). And the Wht to the Blk wire(Ground). 6) Plug it in and make sure everything works. DONE! Sorry no provisions for the charge light, since I could not get it to indicate properly. This allows you to use the cars stock wireing, and is very simple to do. If anyone out there has done this before and knows how to hook up the charge light please let us know.

www.zbarn.com has used parts for Z's. OEM is the best way to go. If not Victoria British has some A/M body parts. I've heard that the fit isn't great, but a good body shop should be able to make them fit.

I wish this had been around a few weeks ago. Maybe I wouldn't have had to cut off the mushroomed end of my NEW spindle after beating it with hammer to get it in.

I'm going to bring this back up from the dead. I installed an Early ZX Alt into my 260Z. My only problem is that it won't start making voltage until it gets to about 3.5K RPM, and it stops if the idle drops below 900 RPM. I followed the installation tips from Z Car Creations & ZCar.com. I rechecked my wireing a hundred times, and changed the Alt twice. Still can't figure it out. HELP? On a side note I want to change the Amp/Fuel gage to a 280Z Volt/Fuel gage. Has anyone done this with their car?

Looks like a good product. Do you know anyone who might have used them? I'm guessing you won't need an electronic flasher with these bulbs. I can't seem to find specific information on their site about it.

What engine are you useing?

Very Bad A$$. Did you have a headlight, that's already in production, in mind when you drew that? I would love to see a kit like that for the Z.

I'm talking Wheel hp. Crank HP is for advertising, not reality. An RB25DET should get you 350 Wheel Hp with very little changes. This is more than you will get out of the V8 with similar modification, but the Torque will be higher with the V8.

OHHHH! Well that's so true the V8 will give you more torque than the RB. So lets not forget to Stiffen the Chassis even with a mild V8 swap. With the stock RB25DET you should be OK. (pushing it but OK)

This has to be one of the longest threads I've read so far. And it ends like a jap novel with the hero dieing in the end. (Oldestzguy's Z) I say get a car cover for it, and let it sit untill your ready. I've into Z's since I was 18, and now on my 5th Z. It's taken me almost 15 years to find one worth doing something with. It's not the fastest I've had but it's in excellent shape. I'll be putting in an RB26DETT in the spring, and I expect about 450 Hp with some mild upgrades. Hence the need for some fatter tires, and fender flares. And the IMSA flares on the Oldestzguy's Z look sweet. Your Z has been around for over 30 Yrs. it will be around for a few more. Besides there is always Spring and Summer breaks.