patzky1

HAHAHA, A couple of my friends went to the movie and said it was OK. One was quick to point out that there was a LOT of CG racing scenes and I can believe it since the cars the actually drove were stock in reality (I think). Oh, and one of them said he thought I would like the movie. HMM, no. I guess he thinks I'm a boy racer (geeesh) because I talk about my 280 every now and then. As for those numbers, wouldn't the Challenger with like 425 hp do better than 0-60 in 6.6 and 1/4 in 14.8? Pat

Ah, yes. I also enjoy having a large amount of torque and some horsepower on tap instantly whenever I want, that's why I wouldn't personally do a turbo swap. Hell, all I have is a carb'd 305 and I can accelerate as quickly as I please (most of the time) with just a little twitch of the throttle. It's really such a different beast than with the pukey L28 (slam on it, watch the tach for redline, shift, repeat...). Also, I get about the same mileage (23) as pre-swap since neither configuration has had OD. Cheers, Pat

Yeah, you can pull the WHOLE computer and ALL of the wires that go to it. They're all just for the injectors, sensors, a computer ground, etc...have fun! Also, you need to unwrap the main loom that goes to the headlights, alternator, etc... as per JTR. The only wires you really need to keep from that loom go to the horns, lights, oil press. sensor (if you plan on still using the datsun unit), signals, fuel pump, alternator, tach, and the four big ol' (white/red) wires that go from hot on the starter to fusable links then through the firewall. There's also gonna be a LOT of junk left over in the engine compartment to get rid of (more than for a 240 swap), but as stated above you don't need it! If you have an internally regulated alternator you can even get rid of the voltage regulator. Hope this helps and I didn't leave anything important out. Pat

I'm interested in the exhaust except for the headers. Got pictures? Pat

The richest AVGAS that I have ever heard of is 102 octane and it's leaded (102LL). Not sure if the octane is standard or motor, as Scottie mentioned, though. The stuff costs from 2.75 to 3.00 a gallon, depending on location. Also, don't get caught using it in your car on the road, I think it is frowned upon. Pat

Surely you all know about the shuttle Columbia going down early this morning. All I can say is that I feel for all family members of the crew. First shuttle re-entry problem in something like 141 missions. What a shame. Pat

Do you go to Bradley? Pat

Check out the huge camber on the rear wheels! LMAO, I bet it handles well... Pat

'77 280Z, 6,000 rpms (my redline) with a TH350 (no lockup), 3.54, 215/65/15's. So, whatever that adds up to. Anybody? It must be approximately 140... This was before I got the right speedo gear for the tailhousing and I haven't done so since. BTW, a spoiler on the front made a big difference for me since the suspension is more or less stock. It used to get squirrely at about 120 or so (when it still had the L6) but was only starting to act up at my top speed with the spoiler on.

I took out the stock pedal and cut off the "ball" at the end with a hacksaw. Then I took the pedal from a chevy and cut off the connector. BTW, the car i cut the connector off of was a caprice. Any chevy from the JY should have the same connector. I then welded the chevy connector onto the end of the stock pedal, making sure the cable would be straight enough. Simple as that, whole thing costed me $5 for the chevy pedal. Also, I suppose you could just cut the flanged part of the stock pedal off, rotate it, weld it, drill a hole for the fitting, and use a hacksaw to make a spot for the cable to go as you slip the fitting in... Pat

Just be sure to re-pack the bearings on the exercise wheel, too! Sucks when those go out. Patsky

I'd say the tail number was the best clue!

I'd say the tail number was the best clue!

HI all, when I start my JTR SBC '78 Z it will start fine then it'll die without fail after about 15 sec. of idling or sooner after bliping the throttle. What I think has happened is that the electric fuel pump works during cranking but not after that. Is this possible? If so, how should I wire the pump to give it power all the time (I'm not using the oil pressure relay) Thanks! Pat

The green wires are for the reverse lights' activation. Nothing more, nothing less. Pat

Just wondering..... Craig, did you and the mechanic get the wiring done? Looks like I get to take all the wires into the car and out of all the harnesses to wire it correctly. Hoping I wouldn't have to do that. Pat

Well, I know you keep the big white wires and that the big white/red wires go to the big white wires via two fuseable links, just like the original setup. hook up the white wires to the "big" terminal on the starter like it was on the Datsun engine. ALL of the White/red wires can remain and are basically just power to the car's systems such as headlights, turn signals... The fuel pump wiring setup is well-explained IMHO. That leaves the tach wiring... I have a question, what do you do with the ignition transister? You need the black/white wire and the blue one from it, but do you just get rid of the transister somehow(thats what the book VAGUELY says)? I broke out the multitester and found out the blue wire from the ignition transister is connected to the thinner same-color wire that goes to the tach. So then I just got confused. This is my second conversion and a friend of my father's wired up the first one but, unfortunately, neither the car or he is around anymore so I'm kinda SOL on this one unless someone can help out. Pat

Yeah, 9 G's vert. will start to make you black-out! But 9 G's horizontal would probably just plain knock you out if it is applied fast enough (torque!). Pat

bump

HI ALL I am doing my second conversion... a 77 280 with a carb'd 350. What do you do with the ignition transistor on the passenger's footwell? The JTR book says to take it out and that you need two of the wires (one's blue and one's black w/ white stripe). I just forgot what happens to the wires other than that they are both connected to the tach (HEI). So should I completely take out the ignition transistor? If someone could take a look-see it would be greatly appreciated! Pat

Anybody??

OK, I'm on my second V8Z swap and I can't seem to remember what you do with the ignition transistor and the five wires that go to it (77 sbc carb'd). I know I need the thick blue wire for the tach and the black w/ white stripe also but what exactly do I do with them? The JTR just confused me when I reread it! Also, where do most people run their fuel lines once they pass the firewall going to the carb? On the last conversion I did the whole charcoal canister-in-the-fender thing as suggested but didn't really like it too much. Thanks a ton Pat

My Favorite: Need I say any more?? I like the girls with cars but one thing that throws me off is the magazines like "Low Rider" that consistently have skanky women in bikinis on Harleys.. Yucky. Patrick

OOOHHHHH yeah, those 610 horse "World of Outlaw" aluminum block and alcohol burning SBC's are sooooo sweet. Friend of mine races one and let me take a very very short spin....you have to push start them b/c the tranny has like two gears, high and very high

IMVHO Buy some books on building up a SBC (Vizard comes to mind) and do a NA 383 conversion. You can pretty easily get 400-450 hp out of a streetable and tame 383, especially FI, and not have to supercharge for more $$ savings. This will put your 240Z comfortably in the mid-11 sec. range for sure. Patrick