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Everything posted by patzky1
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I used to think it was decent, but that was before I saw the light and decided to go hybrid. Oddly enough, a friend of mine who owns a (cough) 96 camaro was the one to tell me about this site. I'm glad he did. That was "way back" when I was 17. I really think they get a lot more trolls there than we could ever get here as a result of our excellent moderation and their lack of it. Also, did you notice the wanton use of the f-bomb on that thread? Geesh. Pat
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Look here: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=4&i=232109&t=232109 The funny starts about 18 posts down. Pat
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Not going anywhere for a while? Have a snickers!
patzky1 replied to auxilary's topic in Non Tech Board
Never rolled an ankle, but I can tell you that getting a helluva a stinger in football is like a near-death experience! I still can't swing a hammer with my right arm like I used to because of a resulting torn/loose ligament. I've also broken a toe and hyperflexed my knee in wrestling. My knee used to want to pop and be sore all the time, but that's been 5 years ago now and I'm finally over it. Get well soon! Patsky -
Now I'm getting an evil thought: Put a rotary engine in a lawnmower...hmmm. I did the ol' sbc jtr route and don't regret it. Only thing was that at first I did not have an overdrive tranny and it SUCKED. Seriously, what was I thinking? I put in a big, torquey motor so that it could have to wind up on the highway? No.
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The extra coil pack has two leads to attach to your nipples. They call it the "stimulator." Teh dizzy is what you get afterwards. Pat
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I have a 77 daily driver and a 78 parts car. I noticed no differences at all when swapping suspension stuff over. Also, the alternators were the same. Not sure if the PO of the parts car did something weird or not, but both were externally regulated.
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K, thx. I thought I would ask since you always have witty stuff to add to the forum (not being sarcastic here) and it sometimes is also on Fark. Cheers, Pat
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Hey, Aux.... What's your Fark screen name? ooT_3M_ta3 Pat
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It's funny because that thing tries SO hard to be a big car! Aww, look at the extra seats and the big tires on that little Z, isn't that so cute? Pat
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Hammer: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive car parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. Mechanic's Knife: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing convertible tops or tonneau covers. Electric Hand Drill: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling rollbar mounting holes in the floor of a sports car just above the brake line that goes to the rear axle. Hacksaw: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. Vise-Grips: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. Oxyacetelene Torch: Used almost entirely for lighting those stale garage cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the Whitworth socket drawer (What wife would think to look in there?) because you can never remember to buy lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from the PX at Fort Campbell Zippo Lighter: See oxyacetelene torch. Whitworth Sockets: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for hiding six-month old Salems from the sort of person who would throw them away for no good reason. Drill Press: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against the Rolling Stones poster over the bench grinder. Wire Wheel: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "Django Reinhardt". Hydraulic Floor Jack: Used for lowering a Mustang to the ground after you have installed a set of Ford Motorsports lowered road springs, trappng the jack handle firmly under the front air dam. Eight-Foot Long Douglas Fir 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack. Tweezers: A tool for removing wood splinters. Phone: Tool for calling your neighbor Chris to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. Snap-On Gasket Scraper: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. E-Z Out Bolt and Stud Extractor: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit. Timing Light: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup on crankshaft pulleys. Two-Ton Hydraulic Engine Hoist: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and hydraulic clutch lines you may have forgotten to disconnect. Craftsman 1/2 x 16-inch Screwdriver: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. Battery Electrolyte Tester: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought. Aviation Metal Snips: See Hacksaw. Trouble Light: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. Phillips Screwdriver: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads. Air Compressor: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty suspension bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, and rounds them off. Grease Gun: A messy tool for checking to see if your zerk fittings are still plugged with rust. Hehehehe. These are not mine, but from Peter Egan of R&T. Pat
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501, 10 trys, 3 redlights... Average for non-redlights about 530. Forgive my ignorance, but why is it impossible to get less than a 500? Pat
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Correct fuel psi for carbed 350
patzky1 replied to Kazuya1274's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
I had a stock Q-jet and was running about 7 psi just fine with an e pump. Then I got an Edelbrock 1405 (600 cfm, AFB style) carb and it wanted to leak past the float needle seats until I got a regulator and put it down to 6. Your carb may be different, but Edelbrocks aren't supposed to like more than 6 psi. Point is, don't rush to get a higher pressure pump until you know your carb can handle it. You may have a semi-clogged filter or line somewhere. I had a similar experience to yours before and it was due to a slightly (not very) dirty fuel filter in the line just before the carb. Once I changed it out the car came back alive on the freeway after merging, etc. instread of falling right on its face. Pat -
The headline says it all... Pat
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That's $36,000 American. Thanks, but I'll pass on it for that amount of cash. Hell, with that amount of money I could definitely build a car that would make me happier than that one ever could. Okay, I'm done. Nice car, though! Pat
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Debadge and get: 430Z, 500Z, 570Z, 700Z or whatever ya got, but you have to be able to back up a higher number than "350Z" because people will probably catch on quickly and want to see if you can. Z BEAST ZLAYER ZOOM X 3 NYUK X 3 WIZEGUY LESSONZ ILL(INI) Z ILINOYZ OMG BBQ 1 I have seen this one on a local stock Prelude: "FASTST1" LOL
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You Guys Would Drive This 802Whp Civic? Pics
patzky1 replied to slownrusty's topic in Non Tech Board
I'd take it even though it's not my preference to have to spin to 9K for 800hp, but whatever works. Definetly comes alive at about 5.5k, huh? Geeze, by that time mine is already out of breath. Pat -
What did that cost you and what exact parts did you use? I'm getting tired of my carby and thinking that TPI fwould be easy enough to do similarly to yours since I have a 77. Pat
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Hmm. Sportbikes are pretty sleek. Contrast that with the Z, which is a brick as far as high-speed aerodynamics go. According to my calc's you have about a .104 hp/weight while he will have around .140...assuming you're 2500# and he's 700#. You would have to have a significantly better power/weight ratio than he (which you don't) to win a race like that from a roll. Now, get him to race with a passenger and your chances are much better ;> That said, I love my Z Cheers, Pat
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C150 with instructor and student "buzz" Whitehouse
patzky1 replied to patzky1's topic in Non Tech Board
Well, they apparently were leaving from Smoketown airport, around 100 miles northeast of the Whitehouse, and heading to an NC airshow. This puts their direct flightpath right over the Whitehouse ADIZ (bad bad bad to fly there w/o permission) and surely they had to have some inkling of what they were doing, as they did not start off too far from it. I know it's easy to enter airspaces inadvertantly, but you have to know about and avoid THAT one, it's huge. Pat -
Did anybody hear about these dummies entering the Whitehouse airspace and causing a Code Red condition? They got within 3 miles of the building. Being an instructor, I cannot believe they did it! They even ignored repeated attempts to communicate with them via radio. Eventually F16's intercepted and they landed nearby in MD. What's scary is that they probably didn't realize what they were doing and COULD have been shot down. Geesh. Pat
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Yes, that's very fun... kids love it too. LOL. Pat
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It sounds like your friends are afraid of their cars being bested by your lil' Z with the n/a 400 hp LS6 and are discouraging you because anything over that will be even more embarrasing. Am I right? The hot Ferarris and McLarens, etc. are over 500 hp and are driveable. It all depends on the car's setup and driver's skill level (and maturity) :> Keep in mind that you have a standard transmission (no crazy high stall torque converter) and a modern fuel injected engine. These both will make your job of driving like a pussycat easier if you want to IMHO. As stated before, you'll probably be doing a lot of second gear starts with a T56 and 3.90's without DRs or slicks. Of course, you can always start with a stock engine, get used to the car, and then go wild with it. It's easy enough to go back to mild from wild if need be. My 2 cents, Pat
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Cost me 100 McD's double cheeseburgers... (1/5 of what ON3GO will loose LOL) About the third party stuff, I think it was actually Brand X people that I talked to the whole time. Learned a lesson, though, and that is to at least send the rebate stuff via delivery confirmation mail with whomever. Sure it costs more to mail, but it is miniscule and you have proof that the rebate peps got it. I really do think it would be easy for them to frequently tell customers that their rebate form got "lost in the mail" even though they did get it. OK, I'll stop my conspiracy theories for now! Pat
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Hi all, I just need to rant a little bit about a certain mail-in rebate that I never received from Brand X cell phone company. The promotion for my phone started last June. The deal is: pay $150 now, fill out all of the paperwork PRECISELY, make copies of everything, and you get $100 back. I painstakingly did all of this and even mailed the envelope on June 15th. The waiting period was stated to be 10-12 weeks. Well, 12 weeks passed by. I had forgotten about the deal, but it crossed my mind again at around 14 weeks after mail-in date. So, I figured I would give the nice Brand X company some leeway and wait just a little longer. I then completely forgot about the whole deal until recently (d'oh!). It was not until two days ago that I remembered about it and tried to check online about my (non-existant) rebate. Their website basically said that I was never entered into the system! How the hell? I do realize that Brand X is not liable if it got lost in the mail, but should I be? So, I called the number supplied on the copy I made of the rebate form and supplied the rep. with all of the pertinent info. She just said "Sorry, sir, but that rebate program has since expired and there is nothing I can do for you since it is past 3 weeks beyond the 12 week waiting period and I just can't help you." What the hell is this? If I give them some extra time to take care of my sh$t then I get screwed? I'm pissed. Also, no where at all on the rebate form does it say that I had only a certain amount of time to call them with concerns before I would be SOL. Now, I realize that the whole mail-in rebate business is just that, a business, but they need to be reasonable. I also heard that the companies only actually honor about 25% of the rebates they get mailed to them because of any little discrepancy. Also, not even close to 100% of the people eligible for rebates mail it in. So, has anybody else had any dealings with a similar "business model" that is basically set up to screw the customer? If so, please share. I would also like to hear some opinions about further action I can take. I know its only $100 but it's MY $100 and I think it is owed to me at this point. The company has provided decent service to me until this, too, so that is a little disheartening. Patsky