makaofox
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Everything posted by makaofox
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So been a long time but I finally got a retune after all these years. Only updated the fuel pump to an intank aeromotive phantom stealth and changed the boost to 14lbs. On a mainline dyno made 400hp which dyno jet numbers is 440ish on 14lbs which is exactly where I wanted to be. If i pushed it to 18 I probably can break 430 maybe 450 tops but no need at the moment. All this with 6th cylinder on 100psi while the rest are at 175/180!
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Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel
makaofox replied to seattlejester's topic in Toyota L6 Forum
All I know is the CD009 is a pretty big trans and in a 280z alot of stuff needs to be cut out. My trans is pushed up as far as it can go up and it STILL scrapes on the driveway and big bumps. Its about flush with the frame rails. Also had to cut into the change holder area about 2-3in but its still very comfortable to drive. Im using Austin Hokes shifter bracket which is amazing! My only gripe is when you cut and weld the shifter shorter, it gives you decent room but the shifter itself getting into reverse is tough. Not physically .but the downward function isnt how it is in the 350z where u have to really push it down, so getting into 6th always worries me. Not that anything will happen but it isnt as smooth as a 350z would be due to not having the same support. -
Yea 7m's are but this one was probably just bad luck from the start. Not gonna worry too much about it for now. But summer time will bring out most of the issues. The 350z trans has a pretty decent ratio, it also had the same 3.54 as the 280z/350z. So those guys usually do 4.11s but for an na thats amazing for a Holset id have to start in 4th! lol Ive needed an alignment for 7 years, im just uber lazy about it. My camber is really aggressive to fit in the wheel well. So I wouldnt be surprised if toe is out of wack. While the car was stalling and starving for fuel, I did the stupidest thing and gunned it (which brought it back to life) and BOY was it fun! The car after that did not approve but didnt die. I will check filters before swapping pumps and see if I can get another cruise out of it.
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Havent been on hybrid in forever. I like the AEM cant complain, does what it needs too for the horsepower I have. Update: Still paranoid the motor will blow for a 3rd time, potentially something in the motor may be off. Fuel pump started acting up AGAIN for the 3rd pump, decided to pull the trigger and purchased a Aeromotive Phantom 340 kit. Looks like an awesome kit and a friend with a rb25 z local has one and has no issues with it. Still plenty of things to do that I havent done, due to working on my yellow z. Still need to Install coilovers Install LSD from MFactory. Debating If I wanna upgrade to 3.70 (currently 3.54 with no complaints on how it drives) Suspension alignment Fuel pump reroute and install (modify fuel cell) Brakes front may need rotors and pads Brakes rear may need rotors and pads, fix leak on caliper right side Need new tires. Currently have toyo r1r 235/40/17s and they were great but short life with my camber about 6k miles. Not surprised. Shifter boot Probably more later one, depends if the motor will hold up.
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Honestly no matter WHAT swap you do it will cost around 10k-15k. 1j, 2j,sr20, vq35, rb25, rb26, ls1, lsx, and any other swap. The only cheap swap are the typical small block chevy/ ford, maybe rb20 and maybe L28ET but you can easily drop 10k into it getting to 500+hp. What adds up are things like brakes, body repair/reinforcement, rear end, fuel and interior components like gauges. I built my car in stages. First year rebuild it all suspension with poly bushings and drive it stock as I brought it. Year 2 brakes+fender flares/wheels. Year 3 collect 2j parts continue to drive car. Year 4 collect suspension bits plus rear end ie coilovers and LSD 3.90 gear. Year 5 install 2j swap. Year 6 shake down and enjoy car (blew up 2x so missed out on most of the season). Year 7 drive z and pray she makes it through the season no issues lol. Over the winter ill install the coilovers and rear end as this winter I got caught up one buying another z and gave that one some love in the hopes when my 2j is down I can still drive a z.
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Very accurate post. I spent less than that going NA-T but also blew the more 2x due to bearing issue probably due to an oiling/debris issue which brought the cost back up. Alot can be done to achieve high hp and not spend a fortune thats the beauty of the 2j.
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I used the stock 280z MC. It took awhile to get used the clutch. Its a fairly aggressive clutch so its a step above "on/off" but with adjustment to the rod I got it maxed out and feels decent. Comparing stock 350z MC and stock 280z MC they have the same 3/4" bore so the feel/throw should feel the same. Depending on which stage clutch you go with it will generally be a soft/low throw clutch. Unlike a stock 350z with a soft and higher throw clutch.
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I used a Holset HE351cw, awesome turbo get response. Holset in general spool fast and kick in really aggressive. A/R's for holset arent measured the same apparently. But something like a HX35,40,50 or 55 are solid choices. Hx40 is a common choice for drifters. All holsets are T3's unless you have the big ones like hx55 then its a T6. So I customized my flange to T4. At 10psi im making ~330whp on a essentially a stock motor. 10psi for a holset is nothing, they can do 20-30psi all day.
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Goddam the air must come in like a windtunnel thats awesome. I used a Q45 TB and for the tps I just switched the wires around. Get a flange and weld it easy as that. Q45 flange is cheap I got a really nice one on ebay for $180.
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The CD009 is a great trans. It came on a car for 15 years so parts will be of no short coming. I got it at a junk yard for $600, brand new from nissan is $1800. The Getreg is 3-7k, not an option for 99% of us. Yes $3k is alot for all of us but the parts that wear out can be easily and cheaply replaced luckily. So if you burn up a flywheel just need the plates replaced with the bolts and done. Clutch isnt "custom" like they make it seem. Im not aware of which models they mix and match but im sure it can be attainable when your clutch goes. I have R200 with 354 gears im in 4th most of the time 5th brings the rpm lower but reasonable around 2k. I have yet to go into 6th at all in over 200 miles. So who knows the mileage ill get from it. I do however want to upgrade to 3.7 gears but I feel the power band would be too snappy and 1st will be completely useless even for taking off. I can already start in 2nd no bogging at all lol.
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SeatleJester- I didnt want to bog him down lol. Those were the absolute necessities/ differences for the GE to be a solid platform. I personally enjoy the 350z trans its really smooth and comfortable and super easy to find at junk yards.
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I went GE-T. I got the motor for $500. Far cheaper than the GTE but the distributor will limit the size turbo you want. Unless you get a manifold that brings the turbo back and lower. Front facing manifolds are easy to come by and make life easier. The wiring is different and may get pricey but its not bad with a standalone. Bigger injectors are needed regardless so i went with ID1000s. My goal was only 400-450hp which im very close too. I put down about 365 wit 10psi on a holset turbo. All you truly need to go NA-T is OEM twin turbo GTE head gasket ARP head studs for safe measure not that expensive ARP main studs for safe measure not that expensive ARP rod bolts Bigger injectors and fuel rail, I would just get a front facing manifold its easier. Standalone ECU Thats all you really need. You might need a MSD ignition box if you go for bigger power or you can do coil on plug conversion and delete the distributor but thats alot more work. Its really cheap to build a NA-T. Also consider i blew up my na-t TWICE and its still cheaper than if i went GTE lol.
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Installed the pump on the first of July. Drove it around 100 miles then another bump on the road, injector drive for cylinder 1 took a dump. Had spark but injector wasnt coming on and could swap it around and the injector works but the wiring seemed to be the issue. Tested it seemed good but no power from ecu. Not the first time a driver went. Spare drivers apparently are no good. Luckily someone on ebay rebuilds them, so sending it out tomorrow. Driving it off boost its fast as hell! The welded R200 for sure wont handle it lol(I have an LSD that needs to be put together), sounds like itll blow. Car needs new tires anyway so ill let them spin. Kind of want a new fuel cell thats baffled the foam stuff will eventually clog the filter again anyways. Also the fuel gauge drives me NUTS! how can I be on E and fill up with 6 gallons on a 17 gallon tank! Looking at a classic instruments fuel link interface that has a resistor in it to really level out the fuel gauge.
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Finally got the car running! Turns out my distributor wasnt sync'd in so it wasnt starting. Quick look in the manual showed me how to do that, another thing the GTE doesnt have to worry about. She turned over and did the 40min break in. My friend suggested a 2hr idle break in and in the process, 30min in the fuel pump gave out :/ So ordered another Bosch 044, this time with a check valve and a shut off valve for the fuel cell. Since I didnt think that part through and fuel will go everywhere when I swap out the pump and check the filers lol. I had the pump sitting for years in the box, so im sure it didnt help to just start using.I knew it was going out when my fuel pressure started creeping lower and lower. Had power but tap with a hammer and it kicks on. Oh well atleast the motor runs enough to do a break in! Going to aim for 500ish miles before going for a real tune and hopefully get 400hp-500hp. It made 398 at 7psi on 9 screwed up valves and a knock lol.
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I would say no. I have the rear sump from a 2jzge supra. Its very evident when I put the mount on the wrong holes to the block a front sump wouldnt work. Thats not to say that CX racing isnt using a front sump, however the motor will not sit as far back or low as the rear sump. And in racing low and closer to the center of gravity the motor is the better the car handles.
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So me and my buddy finally finished the motor. Took way longer than expected because of all the hurdles. Found 9 out of 24 valves to be out of spec, with 2 being double the specs. So those valves were either stuck open or closed. Crazy how the car even ran or idled the way it did, props to the tuner. But now to spend a couple days to put the little stuff back together plus have to torque the crank pulley which will be a challenge. Also for anyone interested to know. I have a Holset HE351CW those come T3. Most manifolds now and days come T4. I had to use a spacer to fit on the manifold which made it 8 bolts to worry about. Well, I decided I wanted to take that out and cut the T3 flange and add a T4 flange. Sent it to my machine shop and the welder did a really nice job. I did all the measurements to keep my exhaust and intake the same without modding them for a lower angle. Im really happy with it and I hope it lasts. SO many people were telling me it couldnt be done, so hopefully I can shove this in there face. I only spent $180 to mod it and got the turbo for like $400, so all in way cheaper than a brand new turbo. Ill update once I get the motor in hopefully within this week or weekend.
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Well small update so machine shop was able to get the short block back together in a week which was awesome. Then Today just redecked the head because found a gouge in the head which leads me to believe in the future this motor would have blown if the bearings didnt go when they did. Also found out they didnt put a stock twin turbo head gasket in which is a 1.3mm gasket instead they put a cometic 1.8mm gasket which I didnt ask for. So with the thinner gasket it should run better off boost. While it was at the machine shop added some ARP rod bolts and main studs since it was all apart again. Worth the extra $200 for peace of mind. Other than that, once my friend is off we could put the motor back together in a day. So hoping to have it up and running by end of may early june. Soliz good luck, its all about just having a good headgasket, arp head studs, rod bolts and mains if you want. Its a solid motor, I just had some bad luck. The oil was bad lots of shavings. But going to run 10w40 and for break in going to use a upgraded filter that will get all the little stuff in the motor.
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Ahh dope. Any links on that, I may have to consider it. The ls1 coil swap is very pricey now and a pain at this point.
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Not sure if i missed it but what did you do for the coil packs? Did you use TT stuff or Lexus stuff? I kept the dizzy which is a pain in the butt. The swap is looking good!
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Lol it wasnt a good sign but ignorance is bliss and I didnt wanna believe it. I knew early on the motor didnt seem right. It was hard to pin it on a bad motor with so much of the motor having issues. Plans are this week start pulling stuff off and have the motor pulled for the weekend. I also plan to talk with the builder and see if he'll refund the money since he just closed his shop. I feel like I can rebuild the motor but I know its a tough task and I want the motor done asap to still enjoy it for the summer, so may take it to a professional. Curious what the oil will look like once I drain it. All im hoping for is shot bearings and salvageable crank and block. Also hope to not take it to a machine shop because that will eat up weeks.
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Well bad news for me. The motor has a knock and doing a compression test it was at most 125 and lowest was 110. Persistent knock between 1500-3k that was load and upwards not as loud but its there. The new black bov spring did indeed help with compression surge and the msd works. The tach adapter was screwing me up. Turns out for me i didnt need it but in general toyotas need it.
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Hey guys any input would be appreciated. Im trying to install MSD 6a with the tach adapter and SS blaster coil anyone have experience with MSD install? All the threads I searched are from 2004-2006 so all the pics are broken. It seemed straight forward and potentially may have fried the msd unit but this is what I have going on. here are some of the diagrams http://documents.msdperformance.com/6201.pdf PAGE 10 the first diagram http://documents.msdperformance.com/8910eis.pdf NEW DIAGRAM FOR TACH ADAPTER Following the tach adapter I accidentally had the tach wire on the positive and potentially could have fried the unit since the lines were crossed. BUT The unit has power and when it cranks the power goes out. Potentially also had to crimp the distributor wire might have crushed it or did a poor job not too sure, im more concerned with the wiring. My confusion is (following tach diagram) I have BOTH reds hooked up to where the ignition coil harness positive which for me is black with red stripe. The black line hooked to the "negative" of the coil for me is purple. My confusion is should I leave the black hooked up and the red lines hooked up to a switch and leave the coil harness as is with just the negative hooked up. Any help would be appreciated. I need to get this sorted out so I can go back to Evans Tuning. He said this was preventing my car from full potential, Spark blow out after 10psi. Thanks guys! What I plan to do is take everything off and just have the SS coil and go from there.
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I ordered a 6in tube when my tank is 7in deep. So that 1 inch will leave 2 gallons of fuel so when it reads empty ill really still have 2 gallons which is good. So that must be what you are dealing with. I did the math with some formula. I am scared for the foam but for this year ill go with the foam and then over the winter modify the tank with baffles. He did clarify bov not wg because i did ask. But the smaller spring I dont think will be a big deal but once installed ill start the car and see how it acts before I install the MSD coil and ignition 6a box. Nice! Good job, i really liked that manifold but running a T3 turbo just wasnt going to work with it.
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Nice cruising! Well yours does fluctuate but mine goes from full to empty to 1/4 and stops at the last point so its really hard to tell whats in the tank. I figure a tube style would also allow me to put more foam inside the tank since the middle is exposed due to the float arm being in the way. No I dont mean WG I was told bov. I really didnt understand why he wanted it that way also but who am I to argue a professional tuner lol. I purchased the spring he preferred and I will install it and he will have to re-tune it the way he wants it to act. The bov didnt have an o-ring on the vband so that did have a leak but im not sure for his reasoning on the spring, maybe he means open with some throttle as opposed to not opening at all. I suspect the no iac is doing something but when I ran the car at his shop it was fine. When i blip the throttle it wants to stall out but it idles perfectly at 850 so cant go to high on idle. Im waiting for the parts to really see what happens afterwards. BTW your AFR's are perfect! mine is a bit lean idling and off throttle but on throttle its solid.
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I was searching and found a tube style fuel sender which is great, but expensive $100. Compared to a float style its a tube and wont jump around as much. I was talking with the company that sold the fuel cell and to modify it/ install baffles its $450 for a new tank which isnt terrible as the tank alone is $250 without options. I have the foam in there but ive heard some stories how it will soon break apart with regular fuel. Well according to the tuner he wants to tune it with a softer spring and have it open. Right now it barely opens even under wot.
