ratedZ

Hey speeders. I've was wondering how you guys felt about putting a push button style starter....anyone have these on their Z's. Comments?

The canister came with the turbo engine...and I'm guessing it's for smogging purposes. Would I be able to still pass smog without this thing? I don't want to remove it if it won't. Some people suggested moving the canister somewhere else....I might look into doing this unless someone here knows for sure that I won't screw my self when it comes time for the sniffer. Thanks.

You guys know what I'm talking about. I wanted to know if you could because I've seen a lot of turbo Z's without it and they where able to run their intercooler piping through. I know I could just make a big arse hole on the drivers side and squeeze both pipes including the intake but I think the other set up looks cleaner (hopefully it can clear the stock fan.) Thanks guys

Well guys I figured it out! I modded the POV like normal but when it came to add more washers the center part of the POV (which looks like a cylinder) sat too low so I couldn't add any more washers. Soo the only logical step to take was to slightly hammer the cylinder up a little so I could add another washer or two. Well it turns out that in doing so I forgot to make sure that the cylinder/retainer sat flush with the washers....so when high boost kicked in, it pushed up the washers in the POV to compensate for the slack which then acted as a vaccuum leak. I finally figured this out two days ago...smacked my self in the back of the head and hammered the cylinder to sit flush with the washers. Now she boosts all day long at 13psi. It must have been just enough to let air out because I didn't even hear anything escape the POV at WOT. So if anyone else runs into this problem make sure that the cylinder/retainer sits flush with the washers. I know I derserve it

ugh! nothing pisses me off more than seeing a fellow Zer get jacked...or anyone for that matter. Can't remember if you had custom wheels on your Neon...hope not. This kind of crap really makes me wish I could install a flame thrower alarm like they have in Africa.

I want to clean out my engine with a degreaser etc. BUT I'm very affraid to do so. I did just this last year and my TPS went out of wack and I had to replace it. The engine bay was very clean though and my engine is now in need of cleaning once again. I cleaned some things by hand but it takes a very long time and my back is killing me. So what should I do before I wash out the engine? I know I need to cover the TPS switch, K&N filter and the alternator with plastic bags. Am I missing anything else? Also, can I use a regular garden hose to do this or should I use a high pressure washer? Thanks all for the tips. PS. any recommendation on good degreasers in a can?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=296824&page=1 This has to be one of the funniest rice threads I've seen with a Simpsons twist.

hehe.....I stay away from primered hot rods....I know better lol

ok...just got back from looking at my POV. I just noticed that two of the 4 washers I have on there is thinner than the other two. Maybe just maybe, it's venting from the POV at WOT and I'm just not hearing it. Soooo....I replaced the two thinner once and I will know if this was the problem after work. *crossing fingers*

"I predict it is a leaky diaphram in the wastegate actuator (but I'm no psychic!!)" oh god I hope not! I have an extra turbo with the wastegate but have been putting off the swap because of the difficulty level. aaaarrrghh!

I just checked all the hoses around the turbo area and everything looks ok.The controller is hooked up next to the waste gate so I know it's not because the vaccum hoses are too long. The hoses for the boost gauge looks good as well and I think the gauge is pretty accurate because the car is not overboosting....I'm sure if it was my Air/fuel meter will tell me or a piston flying out of the hood would also be a good indication lol. Very weird problem....any other ideas? Thanks.

Hey guys....recently I have noticed that my boost levels do not stay consistant. For example: driving it last night I've noticed that she's only boosting 8psi. So I go out and do the adjustment on my Dawes Device boost controller and dial it in to boost 12psi. Everything is ok then I noticed today while driving that the boost level has gone back down to 9psi. I haven't re-adjusted it back to 12psi because I wanted to know what would cause this. Also, not sure if this is normal but I can't hit 12psi unless I'm in a lower gear at WOT. Like if I punch it while rolling at 3rd gear I would only get about 10psi and would start to taper off into the lower numbers. I was thinking that maybe the spring in the controller was settling and that I would have to make the necessary adjustments accordingly.........thanks for your help guys!

Here is a pic and a short article about it

It was this G-nose I wish I could afford the shipping otherwise it would be on my zxt...

Hey guys...I have a dual gauge pod in my 83zxt. The pillars in my Z is thin as well but I was able to fab a universal pod with fiberglass, fiberglass bondo and some imagination. The universal unit that I used is HUGE...it stuck out another inch or so on each side. First thing I did was somewhat mold the plastic to the outer contours of the pillar. I tried using a blow dryer but it wouldn't heat it enough so I used a zippo lighter After I got it to where I wanted it, I clipped the remaining plastic and screwed the pod to the pillar permanently. Next, I covered it with fiberglass to get the seamless look. Skimmed it with fiberblass bondo, sand, repeat until smooth. Lastly I painted the pod to match my interior. It looks pretty good...it has no seams and fits nicely. I have pics but I still need to get it developed.

Could someone include a link to the "Apex'i Super AFC"? I want to learn more about it. Thanks.

That's exactly how I have mine hooked up. It worked fine until I sprayed liquid wrench which seemed to make my o2 sensor act funny....it now sends a false reading to my air/flow gauge and would sometimes not work at all at WOT. The best advice I've gotten is to replace the sensor with a one wire bosche kit. They go for about $20.00 at your local parts store. PS. are you sure that you got a GOOD splice? Double check before you buy another sensor.

Hey guys....well like I said I've been spraying the bolts that are associated to removing the turbo for the past two days. I also had to spray some on the o2 sensor mounting bolts because their on there pretty good. I think this is where I screwed my self.....I drove the Z lastnight and for the first time my Air/Fuel meter read "lean". Infact it would sometimes not show any reading at WOT. The funny thing is that there would be no pinging and the car runs just like it did before I sprayed the bolts. NOW, did I mess up the o2 censor? after the drive I opened the hood and smoke was pouring out of the area where I sprayed.....which tells me that it's drying it out. Would this problem go away once it dries out? Thanks guys for all the help...

Is there any way to clean up the replacement turbo. It has a little grease here and there but if I remember correctly it's not good to get the turbo's wet. I just wanted to clean it up a little...not expecting it to shine because it will come right out once I have the money to send the old turbo out for the t3/t4 treatment. Can I lightly wet the outside with a rag/toothbrush dipped into soap and water? Any tips on doing this the right way? thanks all.

I will be replacing the turbo after I get the oil line from MSA. Not looking forward to it but I couldn't justify spending $1500 to get it done by the Z shop. The turbo looks to be original and I know those bolts are going to be a biatch to get off. I already started to spray all the bolts with a can of spray that eats rust (can't remember the name) so I'm hoping these bolts will come lose without breaking. Have tips on removing the turbo? This is the first time I'm going to be doing this...so I'm a little intimidated. Just looking at the lack of space in that area makes me sweat...and leaves me wondering how hard it will be to get leverage on those bolts. Oh well, only one way to find out right? One good thing that will come out of this is that the bolts will be a lot easier to remove once I get the t3/t4 turbo.

Hey what's goin on FAIRLADY 327, the Z is going to be running 12psi by this weekend as she runs friggen rich and hopefully I won't get any pingage (is that a word?) with some octane booster. Can't wait to get an intercooler in there Oh yeah, how did you know I have family over in Frisco? hehe I'm always up for some racing fun win or lose

OK...at stock settings I was able to blow the doors off of rice boys and keep up with other faster cars. Now I have it at 10psi...what kind of cars can I play with? I want to make sure that I race cars that are in my league...IE I don't expect to win against a Supra. Although some day, I hope to give one a run.

Yes the AC will work...but it will overheat. I guess I could venture into the electrical fans just for the AC. Now I just need to figure out how I can make it come on when the AC is on. Any other ideas?

I was looking at the front of the car where I will be installing an intercooler. It looks like the pusher fan is going to have to go to fit a front mount intercooler. That really sucks for me as AC is not a luxury in Las Vegas. I was looking at Porche's 944 intercoolers and it looks a lot thinner than the popular intercoolers and might be able to fit over the fan. The MKIII Supra intercooler looks a little smaller than the Starion kit but not too sure as I'm only looking at picks. I guess my question is for you guys who are intercooled. Do you still have your AC? Any way to keep the AC with the intercooler? Thanks.

Yep, I just got back from a speed run. It's hot as hell here in Vegas and again I didn't here any pinging. The gauge is reading rich and the car pools real hard...I've had to slow it down a few times because I don't trust my old tires lol. As you can tell I'm having a lot of fun with this extra boost in power....