OldAndyAndTheSea

Nah, you won't need the filler neck from any other car. The one from your 240 will work, at least the one on my 73 did when I completed this swap last month. Like you said, the J-Bolts need to be longer, and you will also have to consider how to reroute your new vapor lines, since the tanks are different in that regard. Other side notes on the swap 1. The driver's side gas tank strap will not fit 100% perfectly in the tanks groove, it will be around 1/4'' or so off square. 2. The 280 tank has one less vapor line than the 240z so you will have to eliminate one line. Here are a couple pictures of my longer J-Bolts and how the rear of the tank fits on the car, using all the original 240z parts. Notice on the next picture the SLIGHT offset of the drivers side strap. Best of luck on the swap!

Those are all nice welders. Can't go wrong with Miller. The 140 would definitely suit all of your needs. And if you're looking for the pretty much an identical machine check out the Hobart Handler 140, it's a much better deal at $500 on Northern Tool (free shipping too I think) I'd say though, that you would do be able to do anything you wanted to do on the car with a Hobart Handler/Miller 140, with a tank of 75/25 argon/co2 gas. I don't think you would require a 230 machine for the types of jobs you are planning, even though the auto set capability is pretty nice, but not at ALL necessary. Both of these welders are 110 units so you can plug them into any wall outlet and they still have the potential to crank out some serious amps if need be. Get the best 110 machine you can find, and you will NEVER regret it.

Automatic 82' Turbo zx I picked up for a grand. Runs and drives great, has a nasty exhaust leak. Will be my new project once I get my s30 back on the road this spring. Can't wait to work on it again.

I took my large 6 inch wire wheel and removed all the factory paint to bare metal, and used my smaller 3 inch wire wheel for the hard to reach areas, like under the driver's pedals, and corner areas. Hammerite will definitely stick to sanded paint, but I figured, "while I was down there" that I would regret not taking all previous material off the car. 150-180 grit is a good choice of sandpaper for the hammerite to stick to, but I'd knock down the stubborn areas with something a bit more abrasive, like a 40 or 60. If rust is present, media blasting is pretty much the only "GOOD" way to clean the metal. Thanks for the comments guys, it means a lot! I'm in the process of installing my new carpet, and I need to test fit my dash harness, then wrap it, then MAYBE, jut MAYBE will I be able to throw the dash back in there, can't wait to see those Phantoms. Mmmmmmm delicious.

It's ALIVE!!! Second start video. http://s524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/?action=view&current=photobucket-5024-1332619942924.mp4 Exciting.

I'm pretty sure this wire (I don't remember what color it is, I imagine some sort of yellow/yellow+black signal wire) is part of the harness that comes out of the hole in the drivers side radiator core support.

That looks like the BCDD hookup Also known as the Boost Controlled Deceleration Device. This helps the car decelerate easier, especially after WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, it allows the motor sufficient time to burn the excess fuel after your foot comes off the throttle. You can eliminate this by pulling the device and blocking the hole with a plate, but you run the risk of the exhaust popping/backfiring slightly if you do so, since the mixture will run slightly richer, and as you could guess subsequently your motor will rev down MUCH quicker with the BCDD removed. Here's a thread that does a MUCH MUCH better job justifying the BCDD valve and it's operations. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/70142-bcdd-removed-now-backfires-at-downshift/

You know you own a Datsun when you've sat on that sharp little lip for the door weatherstripping MORE than you've sat in your actual seats. or You hold your breath every time you either start the car, or look under the carpet.

Wow! Incredible work and super unique. Very nice

I just want to stop begging some supernatural force to "...please let my car start". But in a perfect world 1.) 70-73 240z with Standalone engine management, somewhere in the 9:5:1 Compression ratio range, Lumpy cam, 6-1 headers, and triple throttle bodies, coilovers and 4 way slotted/vented discs. or 2.) 70-73 mid compression (8:5:1), modest boost, L28et Whatever it would take to put 275 BHP or so to the wheels, no need for anything more than that, the car just spins. I want constant TRACTION, and the ability to BREAK traction at any moment.

Got a few more little things done on the car, like finishing brackets and minor detail things... Started in with diagnosing wiring and tracing wire origins. Also got around to making a mounting plate for my new maintenance charger. (Mounted to the stock bumper brackets) Placement was right on for the hinge clearance. -Bought a Painless master battery disconnect switch kit to be mounted on the firewall and the switch hidden inside. -Installed 280z Gas tank, bad shot but you get the idea. Longer J-Bolts are required for the swap. (have since swapped to 280z Jbolts) White LED lights to be mounted under the dash shining on the floor area, hooked up to a switch and the door jam switches as well Swapped over my new gaskets and replaced my goofy Rose sandblasted quarter windows (if you don't know what I'm talking about check back to ANY picture of the windows before, you'll understand) Cheap little bracket arm thing that came with my filter, installed using a rubber hose covering the end to prevent vibration scratches. Nothing major but more to come Take care all!

I am looking for a Throttle Position Sensor from a 1975-1976 Datsun 280z. Must be in good working order, post what you have with a price please. I will pay all necessary shipping obviously. Would be shipped to 13651 Thanks a lot.

I love Hammerite. It's pretty much Bulletproof. I would say it is DEFINITELY on par with POR-15. It's pretty thick stuff, so after about 15 minutes of painting your wrists will let you know whats up. I bought 1 Quart of the Aluminum Primer and 2 quarts of the Black Hammered Finish Enamel. The primer covered the whole interior front to back, and I used about 1 1/2 quarts of the back making sure it was covered. I think it was around 12 bucks a quart. I would recommend it to ANYONE. POR-15 is good, but I would say Hammerite is JUST as good. But in the end its all preference.

Well it has been a LONG time since I last updated my build thread. Well a whole lot has changed yet again since my last post. Despite a squeaky alternator belt, I got the car running on the SU's but soon after this video was taken my rear carb decided to pour gas out on the floor, demanding a rebuild. (holds great oil pressure doesn't it? Haha!) http://s524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/?action=view&current=photobucket-2848-1323406183412.mp4 So with that in mind, I did NOT want to spend ANY money to remain a carbureted vehicle, as my overall goal for this car is a L28et turbocharged application; WOAH! Surprising and original, I know. So I decided to convert the car to fuel injection. I rationalized this by saying that it would be the first step to making the car able to accept a turbo application down the road, by upgrading my fuel system. Finally it was time to address my car's wiring woes..... I stripped the interior out of the car, pulled the dash (wasn't NEARLY as horrible as I imagined) and bought a set of Autometer Phantom Gauges. Also bought the MSA Headlight relay upgrade harness, the running light/dash light harness, and the modern blade style fuse box. I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking. Rust Proofing: FUEL TANK - FUEL LINE install (5/16'' hard line with a 1975 Gas tank and stock fuel pump) (I don't have a picture, but I had it boiled and I painted the tank with the Hammerite enamel, it looks good, take my word for it, sorry) -Used the stock brackets.I LOVE how clean it turned out. Had to drill the old bushings to accept the 5/16 but it was worth it. CARBURETOR to FUEL INJECTION THIS IS WHERE I AM TODAY: Ready to start going through the systems one by one, and finally wire the car the way I want it, like adding stupid little LED lights that come on when you open the door by your feet, and a Painless remote battery shut off switch, a maintenance charger, and a tradtional 12 volt outlet. I will keep you posted, and I will try to take more pictures of the things I forgot to cover above, like the finished gas tank install, my fuel pump location and install, and other miscellaneous nonsense. Hope everything is going well with everyone, and I'm working on the car nonstop now, so I will be sure to update often. Cheers!

Thanks! PM sent to both.

Hey there guys I am converting my 1973 240z to fuel injection. I need the following items from a 1975-1976 Datsun 280z. Some items may be interchangeable with later models but I am unsure enough to post, so if I am mistaken, please correct me. #1: Set of dropping resistors (Previous owner cut my harness so where the dropping resistors plug into is missing, and I will have to splice the wires back together) I will pay extra, whatever it takes, to buy the 2 dropping resistors and the part of the EFI harness that they plug into. This is one of the only remaining things I need to finish my system so this is priority #1. Name your price. #2: Thermostat housing from a 1975-1976 (or 77-78 if they aren't any different) I need the bottom section, where the sensors plug into, in usable condition. Please post whatever you have, with a price please. Or feel free to PM me with ANY leads or information regarding my swap. Like I said the dropping resistor issue is the main concern at the moment and I would love to pay someone for a set of the resistors with the whip they plug into in the efi harness. Thanks for your time

Hey there, I am looking for the set of dropping resistors for a 75 or 76 l28e fuel injection harness. My harness has had the dropping resistor plugs cut out (previous owner) so I will have to individually wire each resistor, not sure if that makes any difference or not, but anyone with an opinion on the matter is encouraged and welcome to post their view(s). I am posting a picture of my harness where the resistors should go, just in case it helps in any way. Any help is greatly appreciated. I live in upstate New York (13651) and will pay all necessary shipping. Let me know a price, and if you have any pictures those would be fantastic, thank you. Thanks for your time,

Thanks for the information guys, that clears up the question I had. I guess I am searching for an early 75-76 280z gas tank. I am putting this tank in my l28e powered 1973 240z. Thank you all again for the information and I look forward to speaking with you.

Hello there, I am looking for a Datsun 280z gas tank. It must be in good solid shape, I don't mind if I have to get it boiled, I just want a good core. I am looking for a Datsun 280z Fuel Pump as well, must be in good working condition. I live in upstate New York (zip: 13651) and I will of course pay all necessary shipping. Please post or pm me if you have either of these items with prices, thank you. Thank you for taking the time to look at this and have a wonderful day.

Eagerly awaiting carbon fiber s30 door panels. Console too

Back to Buffalo State. But I will return this weekend. This weekend I will try to finish the car.

Yeah, there is nothing I love more than working on this car. Now I can drive it AND work on it at the same time. There is nothing better than that. Thanks for the kind words, they mean a whole lot. You have one of the nicest Z's around. Means the world to me. Thanks again

Hey thanks to all that have posted. Unfortunately I took these pictures at night, so once again the finish remains illusive due to the lack of lighting. Used my actual camera though so the picture quality is much better, Enjoy.

If I remember correctly its actually GM BLUE (I know, ahh contradictory). I love the color.