OldAndyAndTheSea

^ That

Walk around video Sorry its dark in some spots Can't wait to release her from prison http://s524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/?action=view&current=photobucket-521-1336350578137.mp4

The stock 5/16'' hard lines will support your power goals for sure. I wouldnt think you'd have to drop your tank, but its always a good idea to make sure she is clean before you run any fuel through your system. Dropping the tank is not too difficult, if you're doing it alone, and it is a piece of cake if you have a friend. the stock 280z fuel pump should probably be changed to something like a walbro 255 or the aeromotive pumps people use here. Other than that you will be fine.

I figure once I get old enough to not want sporty seats in my car I am planning on using 97-05 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Buckets. Love the charcoal and brown color scheme. Plus those seats are C-O-M-F-Y

Woah, awesome video! Thanks for posting

yeah I'd say anywhere between 180-200 ish is normal. My car is 180 on the nose warmed up at an idle.

Yeah sounds like vacuum to me too. Check all your vacuum lines for loose connections or cracked hoses, and check the tightness of even your manifold bolts you may have just forgotten to tighten one of them. Ive done that one or twice on my car, thats for sure.. haha. A little air makes a huge difference. The fluctuation leads me to think vacuum. Otherwise I'd say adjust the butterfly's and linkage on your carbs. Cheers and enjoy the car

Nope, I didn't have to bash the transmission tunnel at all, I bolted the seats to a plate of steel and bolted the plate to the OEM seat mounting points, Had to redrill the holes, and done. I will say though that I still am tweaking my passenger side and I am prolly gonna redo that side. But as to the thread. Today I am wrestling my carbon fiber hood. I'm making new mounting brackets for it, and trying to make it work on the stock hinges. I'm hoping for a good fit. I'll prolly have to remove the center connecting rod springy guys to make the hood sit flush at the front, since the new hood weighs so little it cannot push the hinges entirely closed, so this creates the worst body gap known to man, so I'm going to be changing that. Hopefully I can get something accomplished and post some pictures of new fitment. EDIT: Got the brackets all made up and bolted on. The hood fits great with the test fit and still has some room for tweaking. I'm excited. Took out the spring bars like I said Cut the brackets off a old parts hood. Test fit, checking gaps I'll get better pictures when I have some day light.

The dash cap, like you said, doesn't have to follow the complex curves of the bottom of the dash, so fitment is less of an issue than the full cap for sure. That being said I've seen some fugly fitting half dashes, the color, at least on mine (MSA model from 5 or so years ago) is a good match when all cleaned up. There are a couple spots that ill have to touch some heat to it for better fitment, mainly just the gauge surrounds (section in between the tach and speedo) . I originally bought the dash cover so I could paint my dash and use the cover for a clean two tone look. Ran that for a while, then decided on going back to black, I'm happy with how they fit. The seats are 200 dollar shipped eBay seats, I bought these 5 years ago as well. They used to "squish" but after some coaxing I've got the fitment dialed. Fully adjustable and super comfy. Best 200 bucks spent on the car to date.

I'm going to be dailying mine starting in the next couple weeks, whenever I swap into my new bushings. I'll go til November ish, until the snow.

Haha nope! it's got a half dash cover on it actually. I was just lucky and got one that fit pretty decent and wasn't all fugged up. I don't mind the covers as much as most of the Dudes and Dudetes here do. I have a nice mint dash still in my parts car that I intend on pulling soon to keep for either another car or making a mold for something cool and custom.

I know some guys who swear by using sewing machine oil in their carbies

Seems like in upstate New York kids forget their roots big time. Almost every 350z I've seen while driving my 240 has only wanted to race me. Nor do they even know what the car is that I drive. I've wanted a picture with this pretty much identical color scheme 350z as my 240 for some time. I just can't seem to make him pull over to chat, he just dry revs his motor and speeds away. That's what happens when you own pretty much the only s30 for 3 counties.

I got into Datsun's because apparently I LOVE throwing endless amounts of time and money into a rusty bottomless pit. But, do I regret ANY part of it? Nah. Not at all.

Changed the mounting of my four points.... Now they won't snap my spine in half if I hit anything. Haha! Next on the list: 1.) Energy Suspension Poly bushing master kit install (mainly just the fronts for now, until I change my rear end stuff down the line, then I'll do the rears) 2.) Drive the stupid car.

Take the rear brakes, and especially the 15/16 brake master cylinder.

Threw in the walbro 255, and she started up again. Third start 180 Degree Motor http://s524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/?action=view&current=photobucket-20006-1334973775522.mp4

I put my dash in the car last night, and today I am putting my interior back together.

UPDATES: Stock fuel pump has been giving me fuel pressure issues so I am swapping it out for a Walbro 255 inline tomorrow, then she will run like a top. Oh.... And how could I forget. I installed my dash! I apologize for the pictures, man it's hard to photograph Black interior inside, and FORGET about a lit up gauge pic. This is the best I could do. I'm going to have to figure that one out, once the car leaves her jack stands. The Green indicator lights are my relocated blinker/hazard lights and the toggle switch in the middle turns on my 2.5'' White LEDs mounted under the dash. Also, I wet sanded and removed the "fasten seat belt" indicator so now it is just a red lense that tells me when my highbeams are on, and the choke light is my alternator failure dummy light, since I don't have the space for a voltmeter. And here are the Autopal h4's that are offered for our car, coupled with the MSA upgraded headlight relay. Please note, the car is not running. I know many people wonder what some of the headlight upgrades look like, I sure did. Next step is bolt in my seats (fooled you into thinking they were IN there didn't I?) and then I get to move back to finishing up some touch up paint and body work. Then the most satisfying detail session ever. Couldn't be more Stoked-er!!! Oh. Found these random interior pictures, so here's an edit. Thanks for looking!

Awesome work! Its sweet seeing an extensive z31 build for a change. Very cool car mate!

Bought this 260 for little to nothing. Has some rust issues, not HORRIBLE, but not ideal either. Prettier. Slowly........she's coming around. Not bad for a fun "beat it up" car. I've got around 50 bucks into it so far. Haha, This is my budget build.

When I was 8 I found this rusty Z in a barn, INSTANTLY fell in love, and I bought it for 400 bucks. I used that car to change THIS car... Into THIS car... and since then I have bought these cars... I am now 22 years old. I've had a Z practically my whole life, I don't foresee that changing any time soon. Currently I own: 1972 Datsun 240z (Yellow car - Parts mobile) 1973 Datsun 240z (Silver car - build thread car) 1974 Datsun 260z (Black car - future project) 1982 Datsun 280zx Turbo (Brown car - Next project after the silver car hits the road this Spring)

Sounds like the BCDD Boost Controlled Deceleration Device. Search that, you'll find all you need to know.

Whoops! I can definitely see what you're talking about, thanks Tony, I'll flip those suckers around so I won't have to drive with eyes in the back of my head too! Cheers! Best of luck with the install JB!

Yeah, it sounds like a vacuum leak. If it pulses at an idle, like going from 1500-2500 over and over again, it's definitely a vacuum issue. Inspect all the rubber hoses attached to your intake manifold, check for leaks. Also, check to make sure your intake manifold bolts (What bolt it to the head) are actually tight, if not this could make your car run poorly as well. Once you fix the vacuum leak, you then can regain idle control from the idle control screw on your throttle body to bring her to where you want the idle to be.