OldAndyAndTheSea

On our clutch systems, failure can be traced (but is not limited) to a few sources. Clutch Master Cylinder (most likely you will see a leak if this is the case) Hydraulic line breakage/leak (again look for leaks) Clutch slave cylinder (may leak fluid, or may just no longer function properly, I'd watch as a friend pressed the pedal to confirm travel.) That being said, What do you mean the car stalled out? Due to user error (you)? or was it something mechanical feeling? Like pressure plate or throw out bearing failure?

Have you had any problems with the 1/4'' fuel return? I swapped mine out for 5/16'' in my 73 240, but I was curious to see if you've noticed any fuel system/pressure issues yet? This is eerily similar to what my winter turbo build is going to be. N42/n42 standalone stock t3 turbo build. I'll be watching to see how it turns out. Nice work!

Okay, on a 82 or an 83 zxt, the distributor/ oil pump drive gear has a star shaped imput for the distributor. The n/a dizzy gear does NOT share the star shape and is just round. Pull the dizzy to confirm the shape. Also make sure you timed the shaft correctly to the oil pump at cylinder 1 TDC.

Was at a gas station filling up. A car drives by with 4 people in the car, a man in the back seat rolls down his window and says "YEAH! You drive that PORSCHE!!" But I wasn't even driving.... <_<

Scuff them and shoot them with black paint. The quality of the prep/paint dictates the longevity of the product. Or you could plasti-dip them for a not so indefinite option. If it tears peel it off and re apply. That's the cheapest route, in my opinion.

Hey thanks for the compliment! They are all Autometer Phantom gauges Here are a couple better pictures.

Looks so good! Love the headers.

Typical bondo doesn't like being laid over anything other than bare metal. There are other products, like polyester glazing puttys which can be used sparingly over paints, but I won't get into those. I'd clean the metal best you can, media blast if necessary; cheap devices can be made or purchased at harbor freight. Then use whatever filler. Prime that area Sand (150 ish grit) POR-15 I'm sure there are a bunch of different avenues, but meh, that's what I'd do at least.

Common rule of thumb with l28s is somewhere around 10lbs at an idle once warm, and 10 psi per 1000 rpms until around 50 psi. These readings differ slightly from motor to motor. Also changes depending on what oil pump/ viscosity oil you are using. This is a very general overview.

Nope sorry can't say I do. Thanks for looking though!

Hey there I'm sourcing parts for my winter build, and I am looking for the following clutch components for my Turbo conversion. -240mm 2+2/Turbo flywheel (lighter is better of course, prefer resurfaced; ready to go) -240mm Performance Clutch kit (ACT,SPEC,Etc...) Drive ability is key (no chattering please) Power goals are modest and looking for 250-275WHP. -2+2 Throw out bearing collar (I think the turbo ones will work too) I'll also just throw out a couple other components I need just in case someone has them. -Intercooler with piping (going with the stock T3 currently so 2 1/4 inch is preferred.) -240sx Ka24 60mm throttle body/TPS/and spacer (bonus: adapted for stock linkage) -3 Row Radiator in good condition (bonus: attached electric cooling fan) Post what you have with a price. Pictures are always a plus as well. I will pay all shipping costs. Will be shipped to Henderson, New York (13650) Thank you very much for your time, and have a great day.

or robbery skin. "Nah officer I didn't rob that bank. It must have been the OTHER ....Datsun 240z.."

Hidden battery cutoff switch

Hey guys, my 1976 Air flow meter decided to die on me. No longer sending a current to my fuel pump telling it to operate, so after some tests, I've determined I need a replacement The replacement MUST be from the first generation 280z This is the picture of my broken one. The numbers must correlate. Let me know if you have a good working condition air flow meter, and let me know what the price is for it. I will pay all shipping costs. Will be shipped to Henderson New York (13650) Thanks in advance!

Sweet, thanks Keep em coming!

Hey there I'm looking for a rear sump oil pickup (found inside the oil pan, attached to the base of the block. Some people call it the oil screen) I'm turbocharging my n42/n42 L28 and I need the rear sump oil pickup to be able to install my turbo oil pan Post if you have a nice used, undamaged REAR SUMP oil pickup, with a price please. I'll pay all shipping costs. Will be shipped to Henderson New York (13650) Thank you Feel free to post here or pm me if you can facilitate my needs.

Have you confirmed the actual temperature of the engine once warmed up? No need wasting more money on parts if you don't have to. Throw a thermometer in the radiator and take the reading. (also while you are there make sure the thermostat is opening and moving coolant) Somewhere in the neighborhood of 180 degrees is what you're looking for. Those gauges are known for giving false readings, especially considering its nearly 40 years old.

It's even got the cargo straps. Jealous :lol:

Dash, Center Console, and Door Panels!!!! Also liking the idea of quarter windows replaced with CF vents instead.

Okay so update: Walbro decided to die this past Saturday. I had fried my old fusible link due to my alternator upgrade. Didn't notice the voltage drop til later. So I believe this was the cause of the overall fuel pump failure 2 days or so after. Or maybe its just coincidence? Either way, I'm ordering a new one, and while I wait.... I finally decided to begin to piece together my initial turbo setup for the winter. Best part is 95% of the parts were already owned I've pieced together pretty much everything but.. I have a few questions regarding the turbo harness. This is out of a 82 zxt. First question: In regards to the following picture; I am wiring this into a 1973 240z, I don't know if these wires are used in the swap and the page of my haynes manual that has the wiring diagram is completely faded and illegible. Where do they go? Any help would be appreciated. Wire Colors are White with link White White/Black Red And if they carry power...Can one be tied into my fuel pump relay constant? Here are pictures of my fuel pump relay part of the harness. Second Question: Is the blue wire with the red stripe 12v switched power? Wasn't able to confirm. Third Question: I am relocating my cylinder head temp sensor to my thermostat housing (n42 head), is there a water temperature sensor to supplement this reading to the ECU or does the cylinder head do the whole job? I see a water temp sensor, but I think this is for the gauge? Which doesn't apply to my swap. Am I correct in assuming so? And if there IS a water temp sensor for the ECU (FI ONLY) what does it look like? I think that's all for now, I used Bumble Zee's and Zeerari's guide/supplement for the information thus far, and only need those couple questions figured out to make the swap smoother. Thank you for looking, and I hope some kind fella or lady will help. Here are some pictures of my layout so far. Stock Harness ECU and AFM from a 1982 280zx Turbo When I do the swap I'm most definitely going to write an intensively documented guide on how to swap an 1982 harness into a 240z. I'm initially going with a Stock 1982 zxt Harness with stock t3 turbo, FMIC, MSA 2.5 inch downpipe, BOV daily driver setup, on my N42/N42 Turbo L28 Build. Very excited!

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/82371-my-notes-on-the-na-l28-to-turbo-swap/ That's for N/A - Turbo The parts you'll need, etc..... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/34469-a-quick-fi-and-ignition-280zxt-to-s30-turbo-swap-guide/ That's the write up for wiring in an l28et harness into an s30

Sounds similar to what my truck did when the Driver's wheel bearing was bad. Have you picked the car up yet to see if there is any physical play in the hub? That's where I'd start.

First off, thank you for your service, and welcome to HybridZ! Sorry to hear about your troubles, and I wish you a steady and hopefully fast recovery. I'm sure the Z will help. It sure did when my Dad died. That being said, SWEET FREAKIN PROJECT man!! It's going to be awesome. Keep the stories and pictures flowing!!!

You said the car runs and drives, its just the fuel pump thats giving you problems, and by problems I mean constant running. The air flow meter actually has what is called a "Fuel pump contact point" built into the AFM that sends the signal to the fuel pump relay to trigger the fuel pump's power. That's where I'd start. Here's the Bible for the L28e system. http://www.xenons130.com/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Hopefully it works out.

on the 280z the fuel pump is supposed to run at two different times. first, only when the motor is cranking once it fires the air flow meter controls the fuel pump being on. As long as the flapper is open the fuel pump will run, so if you wreck and the flapper closes, the car shuts off, without the risk of shooting raw fuel all over the place, or even worse, fire.... Maybe someone wired the fuel pump constant to the ignition on. But I'd investigate your AFM, physically push the flapper open, if the fuel pump doesn't come on, someone may have bypassed it. Also the fusable link problems are very common with these cars, search "maxi fuse"