OldAndyAndTheSea

There are two main functions of the fuel injection relay. Its overall job is to provide reliable current to both the fuel pump, and the injection system. This relay controls when the fuel pump will actually run. The fuel pump runs at two intermittent times: First when you are CRANKING the motor, and only then. Then once the motor starts the fuel pump power signal is based on the Air Flow Meter flapper being open. This is done this way so in case the car wrecks, or you stall the car out, subsequently the AFM flapper closes, shutting off the fuel pump. This eliminates the possible, and expensive need for a casket should you wreck, and break a fuel line. If you are going to run a straight new line to the fuel pump, most recommend using at least a 20 amp relay either way, for reliable constant power. Then they will hook the fuel pump power to the oil pressure switch, so when the motor sees 0 oil pressure the pump shuts off, much like the AFM controlled switch in the stock wiring harness. Here's the link to the fuel injection bible. Read it, if you haven't. It's full of valuable information. http://www.xenons130.com/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

Sounds very mean. Wicked sweet!

Installed the gas tank yet again... Third times the charm haha.

Sounds like an air problem? Since the car will only run with the pedal floored, this means the throttle body MUST stay wide open to get enough air for combustion. First, I'd check for vacuum leaks. Then I'd investigate the air flow meter, as these are often the weakest link of the equation. Google: "Datsun Efi bible" if you haven't read it already, I feel this will make you 100% more confident in regards to the Bosch injection system. Best of luck!

on my 82zx turbo, yes

Sounds wicked!!! Very nice.

yeah mine took a whoopin' with a rubber mallet.

Yep, I too have these lights. I LOVE em. No problems and very bright coupled with the msa relay upgrades. Edit: Here's a pic of them without the car on

wow! way cool! I bet it's pretty loud while driving.

Yeah I'd imagine that's exactly the case. Yeah people have spliced N/A harnesses to work with turbo applications, but for what its worth, and the opportunity cost of a decent 82-83 turbo harness well outweighs the work involved. I'd do this: since you have the turbo motor (and hopefully a turbo distributor, if not get one) find a nice 82-83 turbo harness, and a turbo (preferably manual) ecu, although an auto ecu will work just fine. The only thing you need to figure out, is which turbo base motor you have, and like I said earlier, the 81 turbo harness is a little bit different than the 82-83 years. Then again there's always megasquirt, or some other standalone ecu, but that's a bit more involved.

you can never grease too much in my opinion. But yeah just pump them til you see some grease peeking out. 5 cents worth of grease prevents 5 grand worth of work.

The wiring harnesses should be the same. The differences are in the 81 year harness/car as they use a crank angle sensor instead of the module in the distributor (82-83) The other difference is that the manual (5 speed) turbo ecu should have a rev limiter, as the automatic car will not. so find the harness and you should be set

yeah it sounds like your afm to me as well. If you know you are getting the fuel to support the injectors, and since you're getting spark, I'd say its the air part of your equation. The spring that controls the afm flapper has most likely weakened over time.

Very nice, cleans it up quite a bit. Looks real good!

Drove her under its own power. Still some issues but heres some outside pics, obviously needs 9.5 inch wheels but that has to wait...

Yeah I'm pretty confident the Porsche rear end would hold up to the power, I thought I heard even the N/A rears could hold over 400 horses or so. Would be a fun car in my opinion.

I've just completed this swap in my 73 240z. My reasoning behind this was due to the fact that my carb bodies were very worn, and I required new cores to continue. Plus I am eventually turbocharging my motor and this was the first big step in doing so, although this doesn't apply to you. I used the FI system from a 1975 280z. I am very pleased with the result. I will say I have absolutely noticed an increase in reliability, and obviously cold starts happen much easier. Considering you are in the Buffalo area, this is a concern for you as well (I went to Buff State by the way). As previously posted, the carbs, if fresh and well tuned, will give very little problems and can be daily driven. But if you are having trouble with the carbs, and keeping them tuned, this is probably an indication of needing a rebuild, or your 40 year old units are just past their prime. You could always get a pair of Ztherapy carbs and call it a day and be driving soon. But if you are considering the swap here are a couple things to think about Things to think about with the swap: The gas tank and fuel system will need to be addressed. Since the 240z gas tank does not have baffles, it should be swapped out for either a 280z tank (must be 75-76 non space saver tank) or a fuel cell (overkill in my opinion for a daily driver/street driven car.) The stock return line will not be sufficient for a fuel injected application. I replaced the stock 3/16'' return line with a 5/16'' hard line. And I am using a Walbro 255 inline fuel pump. and obviously you will require the FI components (intake/afm/engine harness etc...) Google: "Datsun Fuel injection bible" for a complete list of the parts needed, and how they operate. performance wise, I would agree with Six_Shooter, you wont see any real significant changes (unless your current system is not running properly). The biggest difference I have noticed, aside from the easier cold starts is throttle response. This was a HUGE plus for me. I am thrilled with how my system came out and if you want to check it out, I have documented my entire swap from carbs to FI in my build thread (link is in my signature). I too used all NON emissions stuff. Let me know if you have any questions regarding the conversion, I will be glad to help out. Best regards, Andy

Oh no..... One the ALL TIME GREATS. Respect. The Shelby Daytona will always be one of the greatest cars of all time to me. TRULY will be missed.

are you 100% sure that your master cylinder is good? I've had trouble with clutch master cylinder, especially aftermarket ones. The problem I found with them was that the pedal linkage (the push rod) was about 1/4'' shorter on the aftermarket cylinders and did not have the length required to fully engage the slave cylinder. if you have the stock cylinder and an aftermarket one handy just put them next to each other on a bench, you may be surprised with the difference. This was the case for me. gotta love those hydraulic clutches...... Hope you solve the problem. Edit: happened to find a picture of my two different masters, its rough but if you look closely since the mounting points are lined up, notice the rod length difference. (both adjustments are maxed out for length) This MAY not be the case for you, but I figured I would throw this out there.

Hey Jimmy, Do you happen to know the lengths of your plug wires? I'm planning on doing a pretty much identical routing on my car, but have yet to measure the individual lengths needed. Any info is appreciated. but anyways, fabulous car, mate! Super clean.

Gotcha, and yeah since I am definitely planning out a coil over conversion later this summer, this will work out well. Thanks!

Sweet thanks for confirming! I'll go ahead and order away. Thanks so much for your time.

I'm installing the hyperflex poly bushing kit and while taking my front end apart (1973 240z) I ran into some issues with my LCA inner bushings. Am I correct to assume that these are what people call "Front camber bushings"? Here are a couple pictures of my part. I've researched, and couldn't find a definite answer, as apparently every other person calls it something different. I'd like to replace them, and just wanted to know if I am looking at the right replacement parts. Obviously she's pretty beat, and I've found this kit on eBay, is this what I am looking for? and if not, where can I buy these suckers? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-Front-Camber-Bushing-Kit-/360380011706#vi-content Let me know if I'm on the right track, thanks very much for your time. Any input is greatly appreciated. Cheers!

works of art. pun intended

That's your fuel filter. You should be able to blow through them as they are physical screens that fuel flows through. But they are cheap and you should probably replace that. It looks pretty beat. Since your motor bumps with starter fluid this means you have two of the three components for combustion, air, and spark. As you said you are not getting fuel. Since the car is injected it could be a multitude of things causing your fuel delivery problems. Here are some of them, listed in my humble opinion from most to least probable cause for your problem. Bad Fuel Pump or dry pump (the stock units require a ridiculous amount of fuel in order to prime if dry) Rust or particulate matter in fuel tank Rust or particulate matter blocking the fuel lines Rust or particulate matter blocking the fuel injectors, or sticky injectors Injectors aren't opening (but since you removed your fuel filter and I'm assuming gas didn't spew everywhere this isn't the case for you) and lastly, some electrical problem (fuel pump not turning on, bad afm, bad grounds somewhere) <--I think that one is least likely Best of luck, hope this helps