OldAndyAndTheSea

I've had a similar sound turn out to be a bad thrust bearing (if I'm assuming your sound correctly.) I've also heard some pretty noisy clutch throw out bearings too. Could you take a video of the sound? I'm sure that would make it much easier, and someone more knowledgeable than I may speak up. Also if the paint's clear coat is flaking up, this means the base coat is also damaged. So unfortunately you aren't going to be able to recover that part of the paint , without respraying. But some McGuire's rubbing compound would probably do wonders on the decent paint left.

Took off my headers and exhaust for storage. Put on my freshly shaved intake manifold and mocked up my turbo setup. And began comparing the two setups to make my new 3"

They finally released the android gopro app!! https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gopro.smarty

The sounds 6-1 Headers make though......Well worth the 250 dollars. Make every day sound like the 24 hours of La Mans! Here's a link to what my car sounded like up until I pulled everything off to go turbo, http://s524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/?action=view&current=photobucket-20006-1334973775522.mp4 6-1 ceramic coated headers to a 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust to a dynomax turbo xl muffler

That's the permanent car broken button. I sure hope you didn't press it.....

Bad coil? or Ignitor? (if turbo) I'd start there.

FINALLY finished working the roof on my buddy's '71 240 Ugh.... And of course, perpetually waiting for parts for my Turbo build.

Yeah, I think everyone is having similar photo issues. All my photos uploaded from my phone usually resize themselves, and allow them to be enlarged easily on the page. Now you need a magnifying glass to see just what the picture actually is. haha. I'm sure the site is still recovering from the hack. That being said, I'd love to see my bigger pictures return.

Wow....that sucks... Only positive I see is that at least the hatch glass is replacable. Id hate to have to work the roof instead. Sucks though...

Yeah, I am converting my N42 combo right now. Sticking with the 8.3:1, with SDS Didn't understand why someone would build a N42 block to only throw a huge gasket in there to lower the compression. Why not just build an l28et from the start.... I want the higher CR, so this motor is my first choice.

Got my rail two days ago. It's freaking beautiful!! Superb quality piece, and fitment is spot on. Thanks for the fine product my friend. -Andy

Pallnet fuel rail! Such a nice piece..LOVE it!! Thanks Pallnet!

Looks like a Jaguar xk120 but the headlights are different. Pretty design, love the windshield. Reminds me of my Lyman runabout.

Okay. So while I wait for some goodies. (ACT Clutch/Pallnet fuel rail/240mm flywheel/exhaust flanges for 3'' exhaust etc...) I started shaving my intake manifold. It is an N42 Non EGR intake manifold. Eliminated all bungs except provisions for, the brake booster, the fuel pressure regulator, and a mechanical boost gauge. I'll let the rest of the pictures do the talking. High Temp Primer Sanded-320 Wet Painted GM Blue Better outside pictures to come when the paint fully cures. I think it turned out great. EDIT: outside pics!

Just about finished with shaving my non egr n42 intake. Lots of work to make it pretty. (Full process with like a billion pictures in my build thread.) Pics!! EDIT: November 1st: Got my Pallnet fuel rail! Mock up

Definitely down fot at least a sticker and a hoody

Don't forget. If you are converting your l28e to turbo you will need the rear sump oil pickup in order to bolt your turbo pan to the n/a block. Also don't forget about clutch upgrades, (240mm flywheel and clutch kits) Just take your time, and research EVERY aspect of the turbocharging process. I am undergoing the same project, converting my fresh n42/n42 combo. There are a lot of little things to consider. Also don't forget a nice wideband 02 sensor. Especially with your enormous injectors, tuning will be a problem without this.

I just went to eBay for mine when I didn't hear back from AZC. Spent like 50 bucks for the spacer and the longer bolts, shipped. Works perfect. Just search 240sx throttle body spacer. My next ordeal is trying to fill the small gap still open at the top of the intake manifold opening (the L-series manifold opening is a tear drop shape, so the top left corner is just barely peeking through)

This exactly. If I turn up zilch in the search bar here, I go to google. They almost ALWAYS turn up some thread I've never seen, with the answer I'm looking for.

Okay, so I have continuted acquiring my turbo build pieces, I am very close to finishing. Here's what I have purchased so far. (this is a N42/N42 combination head/block) 8.3:1 static compression with 2000 miles on a fresh rebuild -Turbo oil pan -Turbo oil pan pickup (rear sump) -21x8x2.5 FMIC -2.25'' aluminum intercooler piping -Pallnet (barbed) fuel rail -60mm 240sx Throttle body, and spacer, which I modified for the stock linkage. -Stock 270cc injectors (until I tune the car) -MSA 2.5'' Downpipe -ACT 240mm Street Performance clutch kit Those are the bigger pieces. I have still yet to purchase the following items. (should happen throughout the next few weeks/winter) -240mm Flywheel (preferably lightened) -3 row aluminum radiator -10 inch puller radiator fan (electric)to make room for the intercooler piping. -Greddy Type- RZ blow off valve -Oil Cooler -Innovate LC-1 wideband -Megasquirt II PCB v.3.0 (no longer going with the stock electronic swap, even after I labeled every wire from my donor harness haha..) I'm excited. As for the pictures, I haven't taken too many pictures but here's a mock up of my intercooler and piping (leading to those nice 6-1 headers hahaha) More to come!! Once I get my brass plugs today, I will start shaving my non egr n42 intake manifold. Pictures and write ups will follow!

Yeah, wicked nice ride! Coming from someone who painted his own ride too, I know the amount of work and time, you put in for those results. My hat is tipped to you, Sir. Go for a drive!

WOW! That was in POTSDAM!!?!?! GRRR I'm definitely within reasonable distance away... You had to pass me on the way up. Super lucky! Sweet find. Keep the stream of pictures flowing.

The temp gauge should be an easy fix as well. I cannot remember definitively what the color of the coolant temp sensor wire, but a part of me believes it is (yellow, possibly with a black line) Confirm anyone? But I'd reuse the stock coolant sensor (240z) in your thermostat housing routed to the yellow/black wire, which is hopefully still wired to your gauge. Edit: Just saw you have a different harness. I'm still assuming the stock sender will work with the stock gauge.

And apparently spindle pins just pop out with a tap of the hammer too.

The car looks particularly upset now. Sorry to hear about this, glad everyone was okay in the end.