roger.svoboda

did you drop the driveshaft? if so then you missed some bolts. use a good flashlight and look over transmission really good from under the car looking toward the engine.definitely more than three bolts. At least five may be more. did you download the fsm and look in there.

download the fsm from xenon website. All that info is in there plus a lot more. REad it you'll know more about your car.

you might as well bite the bullet and drop the tranny. Lots of things can go wrong in there that you can't see. You have to do it anyway so why waste time guessing or asking members for a clairvoyant seance reading. Even if it is a tranny problem you still have to take it out. four jack stands, tranny jack, and proper handtools you can have it out of there in under eight hours even for a first timer. search around plenty writeups on how to proceed. download the fsm from xenon full of useful information and it is free.

pretty much happens to anyone with an s130 or z31 (and probably any car using hydraulic link for clutch operation). Just replace the master and slave. don't muck around doing one then the other as you will find yourself replacing it in the near future. of course with no fluid in the reservoir might be your only problem. do your check the fluids in your vehicle very often? pays to do a check at least once a month. You aren't driving a 2 year old HOnda.

junkyard or try roger at tennessee z barn I think it is.

don't get the coolant temp sensor confused with the cylinder head temp sensor. On the older z's they called the unit that functions to send temp signal to the ecu the coolant temp sensor but on an s130 it is referred to as the chts located back around the #5 spark hole. the coolant temp sensor is up front. don't trust your stock temp gage they are notoroiously unreliable and inaccurate. If you really want to know coolant temp get an aftermarket gage. coolant temp will not affect how the car runs except in the sense that when she cold won't run quite as well as when at operating temp. definitely check teh connector for corrosion/broken wire but be sure you have the right sensor.

if he did a maf and z31 ecu conversion there is no flap to move or do anything else. If he has an afm and a z31 ecu it aint' gonna work bubba. You need to recheck what you have done and ascertain if the sensors are providing the proper information to the ecu. are all your connectors clean and free of corrosion. is your battery any good. are your battery cables any good. doesn't take much in the way of low voltage to give a Z a lot gremlins.

probably. does it have the number badge proving it really is a 10 ann edition and other paperwork. Depends to some extent on the restoration work that was done. some unscrupulous people have been known to redo, repaint and rebadge. Check around the web there should be a site that gives you vin #'s for those cars. they only made 2500 of them in the gold/black. so if it has a plate inside that reads more than 2500 that might be a clue to a scam. 3900 for a 80 s130 might be high unless really in fine shape. Have you driven it?

check your ignition module. Are you getting 12v to it?download the fsm if you don't have it. xenon web site free

fuel pressure test rig you can make this for under $20 goes between the filter and the fuel ring

check fuel pressure at the ring. check for spark. Post in the s130 section rather than the s30. I don't often look at that section because I am most familiar with the s130 and others may do the same. quite likely to have a fried ECU. Don't have idiots help you.

you set rough ignition timing by looking at where the rotor is under the dizzy cap. as I said above pointing to #1 if you are at top dead center on the compression stroke. you got to look at the valves to see if you are on compression stroke. cam lobes pointing up and out. four cycle engine sees TDC every rotation but the one you want only occurs every other rotation. got nothing to do with any other marks until you get it running then with a timing light you set the advance by looking at the marks on the pulley in relationship to the metal plate attached to the motor which show you the degree advance. Go to auto parts store buy a positve cable long enough to get to the starter. Buy a short cable with a lug with a hole in it to the bolt into the frame that is below the bttery box. buy a cable with holed lugs on each end to run from the bolt to the starter. stuff is cheap and readily available. another solution is to go to a real battery shop (not walmart) and have them make up cables to fit your car. I had them make some for my 86T and cost me less than $20.

did you redo your battery cables? new battery won't help if cables are corroded, loose. if po put these clamp type on your cables get rid of them. Also the ground strap should go to the frame to a bolt about a foot below the battery box and then to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. plug unplug the afm connector and examine for corrosion. Deoxit by CAIG is the best for cleaning connectors. plug unplug the ecu same same. plug/unplug will often rub off corrosion to make contact but cleaning is the surest way. Don't understand your reference to finding tdc then moving it a mark on the pulley. Distributor position determined by the oil pump gear being in the correct position on its mate. this is what drives the distributor and determines rough timing. fine is by timing light. there are marks on the gears. another possible is ignition module but you said you are getting good spark.

you can set the timing approximately by pointing the rotor at the numeral 1 embossed on the dizzy. It should at least run, altho badly, at least enough to get a timing light on it. As you said probably flooded. disconnect fuel pump and with a fully charged battery. hold accelerator to the floor and keep it there while you crank. get a few pops good. do it two maybe three more. then reconnect fuel pump and hope. Low voltage is a killer on the s130 so get battery load tested to be sure it is up to the task. i chased gremlins for 3 months with a NEW battery finally said got to be that I tested everything else and went back to the shop. they tested sure enough a dud. new battery all my problems (at least car ones) went away. another possibility is the oil pump is one tooth off and you can't time it then.

yes

could be the fan clutch they make a god awful noise when they are going. sure the fan belt is tight? if you think it is under the valve cover pull that six bolts only. if something is wrong you will see it right a way.

check your fusible links

if you saw smoke you fried something either the wire itself or a fusible link.

L28 is a pretty tough engine. at 125 K miles unless it has been abused and had no maintenance done it should be in good shape. you either have a lot of money to spend or too lazy to find out why the car isn't operating properly. compression check. fuel pressure. vacuum check. ignition check. battery and charging system check. just a few things you might want to do OR just throw money at it and hope for the best.

Be sure your battery cable terminals are tight and free of corrosion. just putting in a new battery with crappy cables may not solve your problem. be sure the ground goes to the frame and then to the starter. grounding thru the starter is not a reliable connection. it should go to a bolt about a foot below the battery.

white smoke oil in radiator. don't care what that gasket looks like. something is wrong. never torqued down. head warped. you need to do some more checking.

you should post your question in the s130 forum. there are differences between the zx and the z. if you want answers you need to post something more than it turns itself off. what was everything that was recently replaced? what is your fuel pressure? have you put a timing light on it to set the ignition timing? you should download the Factory Service Manual (fsm) from xenon website its free. do a google search for fsm and you will find it. The first thing to do is determine whether the heart of your electrical system - The Battery and associated charging system is any good. Any good battery shop will load test the battery and determine if the charging system is working usually free. Are all the battery cable terminals tight and clean of corrosion. ZX don't like low voltage causes all sorts of gremlins in the electronics. If you have the one size fit all clamp on connectors (pic) invest the $20 in new real cables not some jack leg make do fix. Read the fsm describe what happens and what you have checked. post in correct section.

try cleaning the connectors for the ecu, tps and afm for a start. Deoxit by CAIG is the best I've found for cleaning. Are your battery and cables up to snuff. terminals tight and corrosion free. Battery load tested? zx don't like low voltage and will cause gremlins if everything isn't correct. Is your battery ground strap properly grounded to the frame before it goes to the starter. grounding thru the starter is not a reliable ground. you need to do some diagnostics and present your findings. otherwise all is guesswork. get the fsm from xenon.

somehow you connected the power for the fuel sender into a relay (maybe?) or crossed into the igntiion wiring somehow. what you have done is cause it to lose power which is why it goes to zero. you need to do some work tracing wires in the schematic and figure out what you did. you didn't note what year car nor type of dash you are asking about. that information helps to get answers.

spit or wd 40 and PUSH