roger.svoboda

$75 is way out of line for a flywheel unless it has been turned or has some other features. Like they said above get a centerforce and use the 225 flywheel

did that swap in a 81zxt. The nissan 5 speed worked fine. Your drive shaft will be okay as long as all you do is swap out the engine. Just pull your flywheel and put on turbo engine. I used a standard 225mm clutch (out of a junker) and it would slip some in first if you really jumped on it but after that okay. I'd get a centerforce clutch and put it in there unless you got a 2+2 240 mm clutch and flywheel laying around.

Check your battery cables. Lots of times people just cut the lousy factory post connectors off and put them one size fitall junk on there. They will get you home but they corrode in places you can't see. my z31 had corrosion about an inch down the cable because of this. Car ran okay as long as battery hot and run every day. I let it sit for two nights and had a similar experience to yours. Dummy me had the new cable sitting in the garage but too lazy to change.

hoses run wrong or left a plastic dirt cap in the radiator. I've never seen an engine that is so designed that air doesn't just go out.

Did the reverse swap and everything fit. 5 spd from 81 n/a into 81zxt. Drive shafts and output shafts were different so I wound up pulling a R180 from a 81 2+2 w/cv shafts and putting it in the 81zxt. Drive shafts on turbos are fat little guys like a z31. Drive shaft on n/a is skinny. I could have had the drive shaft cut and weld on the parts from the two units that worked but the R180 at the junkyard was the cheaper solution moneywise but not timewise. So short answer yes you better check your driveshaft before you start the swap. The input flange to the Rxxx is changeablae with a large wrench or impact tool but can't always find one that fits the driveshaft. The skinny drive shaft uses M8 bolts and the fat guy uses M10 (might be M6 and M8 can't remember). One set of bolts has a half moon head the other is conventional. One input flange is round and the other square.

Got any junkyards down there? Best place to find stuff like that.

This may be too basic but you will need the brake/clutch pedal assembly out of a manual. Clutch slave/master cylinder plus the line connecting them. EAsiest way to get the pedal assembly is to remove the whole cage that holds the pedals. About six bolts I think two are under the speedo so that has to come out. They never seem to want to come out but you fiddle and wiggle and fiddle an wiggle and suddenly the thing is sitting in your hands. Obviously need to disconnect the linkage to master cylinder and clutch cylinder. The four bolts through the firewall hold the brake cylinder also if I remeber right. All the holes and brackets to mount the clutch hydraulics are in place you just need to mount the line from slave to master. There is one bracket that holds slave cylinder hose that won't be there but I don't see as really necessary. It is welded on so you cant just unbolt and put it on the auto car.

Well if you ever did a clutch on anything else -- pretty much the same. tranny jack will help a bunch unless you got some buds with arms the size of my leg. give yourself a day for the first time around. Probably only take 3-4 hours if you have done it before and have an air ratchet. Some real loooong extensions or several one footers to reach the bell housing bolts makes things go easier. when you say you are getting a kit I would assume you are getting the alighnment tool, throwout bearing, pressure plate and clutch disc. Might want to consider replacing rear engine seal as long as you got things apart. Hope de flying wheel don't need surfacing. Usually don't unless you heard nasty noises. If you have to surface the flywheel definitely replace the rear seal.

If it is a T-5 came out of a turbo car (so you probably got stock nissan 5 speed) so had the 240 mm clutch plate originally. which is the same as your 2+2. The n/a cars had a 225 mm clutch plate. I put a 5 spd out of a 81 n/a in a 81zxt with the 225 mm clutch and worked okay unless you really dumped it in first. It was not a new clutch however was the one that was in the junker when I got the tranny. Once you got to second it held okay. Check zdriver.com for a post from bleach he just swapped a turbo engine into a 2+2. Only way to know the ratio of the diffy is to pull the rear cover. Ratio stamped into the ring gear (or count the teeth). R180 is a little over 6" if you measure across it horizontally. The r200 measure like 8" or so (sort of square). You probably got the CV joint rear axles if came from a 2+2. You need to check the driveshafts tho. The turbo drive shaft is a fat guy and the n/a is skinny. ouput shaft from the tranny on an automatic may be different than the output shaft on your manual. I would up trading out the whole drivetrain because of this. diffy w/axles, drive shaft, tranny, clutch assembly, flywheel. oh yeah you do need a flywheel. measure across the shiny (friction face) of the flywheel. 240 mm is 2+2 and 225 mm is n/a. Flywheels look the same except for that.

for $500 jump on it. Make sure engine not frozen tho that could pose some problems.

Have you checked the fuses? Highly unlikely both fuses went out but???? There is a relay box in the engine compartment right side forward of the wheel well. I couldn't find it quickly but I believe one of those controls the head lights. Saw a picture someplace of what relay does what but darned if i can find it.

buying a real battery like an interstate would help too. Been doing cars since 56 and been bit by the cheap battery and corroded battery terminals a few times. Don't ever buy a gel cell. They die when they get discharged.

It is actually possible to remove only the console itself. I have done it on my 85. Test all your bulbs to make sure what is out. I use a 9volt battery plenty of volts to check a bulb out and easy to handle. The slickest thing would be to replace with led but haven't found a good source for those and the bulbs last a long time. Putting the console back in is the hard part. Speedo cable impossible with out extra set of hands to keep it from moving. You can buy a 9 volt cap with pigtails at Radio Shack or find something broke that uses 9 v batt. put on some alligator clips and you got something you can use to test bulbs. Even has enough oomph to test most sidelight, marker lights etsc. other thing you could use would be old pc power supply they have +/- 12 volt and will light everythng but headlight.

I did my 81zxt with a five speed out of a junker. No problem with the starter there is a piece of tin that is different to close off the clutch housing. Not really an adapter. Starter went right in.

the 81 daily driver? is it turbo? Helps if we know some basic facts about the car as Z's vary with year and intake system.

change them first.

be careful with the puller those pulleys are just cast and will break. Take a little tension on it and then hit it with air hammer best or ball peen tap tap tap. take a little more tension tap tap tap. Or if you got a puller you can put bolts in there are threaded holes for this purpose.

if you can figure out a way to get I have one out of 81 turbo complete with half shafts. seattle $100

2+2driveshaft is longer but all else will work. I've got a regular turbo drive shaft I took out of 81 but I'm in seattle. you are welcome to it. The turbo setup should have cv shafts unless you are just changing the differential. you probably have a r180 diff so chances are driveshaft won't work from your n/a. when you change diff assuming 22 has a r200 you need to reverse the U shaped hanger bolt to get the r 200 in there. also looks to me like a early z31 driveshaft would work but never tried it.

might not be the tach might be the sender

well for one thing a 83 dizzy won't work with a 81 turbo unless you have done some rewiring. 81 dizzy use mag pickup. 82,83 use optical.

Well answered my own question after sitting down for twenty minutes asking the question I went out and gave it one last try. Wiggled it just right and she dropped out in hand. so if anyone wants to know the answer is yes they do come out but takes some wiggling.

Anyone know if you can take out/replace the steering system hydraulic lines from the pump to the power unit without taking apart half the car. I've got everything loose but seems like at a minimum might have to take the ac compressor out.

83zxt coolant temp just went black. speedo, tach and fuel still fine. Not the sensor cause I unplugged the wires on my other ones and the frame work still shows. Anyone worked on one of these enough to know if this might be fixable. got a 79 analog unit is that a direct swap or do I need to splice wires.

Standard boost on those cars won't show much over 0psi at full throttle. After I put a K&N filter on and ran the boost up I get around 3psi now. Didn't want to go any higher I just like blowing off the kids in the civics with big pipes and a fin. If you are still running stock intake trash it. I used a three inch exhaust elbow with a brace welded on to a convenient bolt and then bolted on a K&N filter. Set up works good and the car is pretty fast. They also needed a bigger pipe out the back.