roger.svoboda

probly just need fluid and the muffler pop made you notice things that actually were there before.

What happened to me on 280zxt was that i tried to start without the spark lead to the coil connected. This in effect flooded the engine. When I reconnected no start but did smell fuel. Finally disconnected the fuel pump opened the throttle wide and cranked a long time she finally sputtered and spit and then ran for 5-6 seconds on the fuel in the manifold. Reconnected fuel pump and it started okay but I left the throttle wide open when i tried the restart. It was a little sputtery but once warmed up was okay and not a problem again.

Oh by the way did you check the junkyards. IF you havea analog dash then find a 79 that way you can get the 130 mph speedo. ANd the three gage cluster comes out with one screw after you pull hte glove box. If your present gages are just not working correctly that would be your cheapest fix. BUT if your intent is to upgrade to better gages then be prepared to put some effort into it. If you have two of the three gage modules you can swap the parts of the gage that display from one module to the next.

You have digi dash or analog? Digi dash can't do much with except find a one that works. Analog dash you might be able to find a coolant temp gage that would work in there. It appears to be 50MM (two inches). The combo oil press temp gage and the boost gage area 75mm (3 inches). They along with the clock are mounted in a one piece unit on a circuit board. I think it would be dificult to work on that to carry new gages. I believe you would have to fab some sort of carrier to hold new gages. The new gages might or might not work with the stock sensors you would have to check their specs against stock. Normally gages come with the sender (sensor) that you must install on the engine. Wiring already in place in the harness but you might have to adapt connector and then splice into the gage. Well if it worked I put in a pic of my 83 n/a dash. There is room for a gage next to the radio or if not care about radio could make a nice gage panel there. Need a piece of aluminum flatbar 4" by 3/16" (or 1/8) by I think it was fourteen inches long but you shold be able to measure the length. Cut it to fit the trapesoid and pop rivet it to the radio carrier that is in there.

IF z's are like zx's there is a short cable that runs from the speedo to the long cable that goes to the tranny. You can get to that connection without pulling the gages. But I don't know that z's are the same but you might look under dash by the firewall.

The speed sensor is part of the speedometer. Bitchin betty lives back by the spare tire.

i just talked to a powder coat guy. He will do wheels one color for $60 each. Two tone he said probably more than twice because of the extra work. Anodize and powder coat two entirely different processes.

OR you had insufficient grounding to begin with and the kit corrected that problem. I always run a couple of ten gage grounds from the battery to the vehicle on either side of the engine compartment. One of the reasons Lucas got such a bad rep with limey cars is that they seldom had sufficient "earthings" as they call it. Gee I never knew you could sell someone $8.59 cents worth of wire and terminals for Seventy. It sure is pretty tho

Yeah the speedo will just swap in if you have analog gage cluster already. You need to rewire to use a digi. Look at the local pull a part for a 79 they have the 130 mph speedo. Our wonderful govt decided in 80-83 that people would have a fright if they knew they were going over 85. Not sure if earlier years will swap in but I do know the 79 will. I have 83 n/a w/digi dash and 83 zxt with analog. I also found a neat speedo out of a maxima that will fit into the gage cluster.

I keep throwing the damn things away guess I should sell them to some fool on ebay.

except for weight why even take the evaporator out. Lots of work to lose 5 pounds.

Heater core and a/c evaporator are two different devices you certainly wouldn't want to hook up a coolant hose to the a/c evaporator. whereever your coolant hose goes now is where it should stay. and yes the air does go through both units. Not totally familiar with your system but in general you can remove either the evaporator or the heater core. But they sometimes need to be removed as a unit and separated once they are out of the dash.

the black stuff you see is water mixed with the brake fluid. Read up on the stuff. It is hygroscopic and miscible with water. Brake and clutch fluid should be changed regularly. Period depends on your own comfort level. I do mine at least every two years or shorter if it is really black. IF the fluid gets hot enough the water boils and you no longer have an incompressible fluid in your hydraulic system - which is what you need for it to work properly. Or do you really have fluid in the reservoir one of the young guys in our club couldn't figure out why his clutch no workee. He said see I have fluid when you look at the translucent resevoir but when I pulled the cap there was nothing there but a film of sludge.

Has anyone ever tried to buy the cardboard stuff they make the original panels from? that would be really nice as it is more flexible than plywood.

If you are worried about pitch pull any m5, m6, m8 bolt you can find. They didn't use coarse and fine threads no mix and match. Some of those however might be sheet metal screws.

If you got a decent fastener store in the area just buy 10 or 15 each of what you want they arean't that expensive. Japs use ISO standard. Get 25 mm length probably work everywhere. Cut em off if too long. DIN standard actually the same but the m8 bolt has a 13mm hex. Hardware store prices much higher than if you go somewhere they specialize in fasterners.

rings don't seal perfectly. They are designed to hold high pressures for short periods of time. If you were to fill the cylinder with oil you would notice the level dropping slowly over time. Why are you working on the block with oil in the crankcase?

Make sure the kickdown switch and vacuum modulator are working. My 81zxt got smoked off the line by my son's Honda until I got up around 45 then said bye bye. Couldn't figure then one day at a light I pulled it down into first manually. wonder of wonders she took off pretty good then. Turns out someone disconnected the kickdown switch for unknown reasons so she was shifting into second at about 5 mph. when you trying to get off the line in second she pretty slow. Remember also straight six doesn't spool up like a v and takes awhile to come on boost. I went five speed route but you need to find donor car with all the right parts in place

all of mine run. 83zx, 83zxt, 85z31T, 96z32TT

I have had success dissasembling the motors and cleaning them. It is just a miniature vane pump. the motor is held together with bent over metal tabs. GENTLY bend them up and loosen the armature. DONT pull the armature all the way apart there are wires attached to it about the size of frog hair. Once you get things loosened up you should be able to move the armature and see the pump vanes. Knock out any dirt and crud you see. Liberally wash the thing down with electrical (contact) cleaner. CRC makes one you can get at hardware. Put her back together and fire that rascal up. You can buy nylon barb hose fittings most hardware stores and/or auto parts. I replace all my, very brittle, hose with clear plastic tubing works fine and you can watch the fluid go merrily thru the piping. If no joy there then haunt the junkyards. Get a good picture of what the pump you want to replace looks like (there are two different styles depending on where the fluid goes). If you can't find any Z's check honda, other nissan of that vintage, maybe even toyota. Most jap auto makers use the same suppliers for peripherals. My wife and I are going to maui in a month I could bring you one I've got out in the junk pile.

My opinion Get an electrician to put in the meter pan and breaker panel. You are probably going to havae to redo the mast and feed to the breaker panel. If you still got knob and tube in there hope you aren't feeding from the house main. After that it is pretty simple if you can tell black from white. Be very careful with grounding. inadequate grounds can cause enough voltage difference to kill you. only takes around 50 mils to punch your ticket. Use gfi circuits where you are using electric hand tools could save your life. The 120 circuits use black for hot and white for ground. 220 both legs are hot black and white the bare copper is your ground. 14 ga wire pull 15 amp only. 12 ga 20 amp, 10ga 30 amp you can get table from the web on for higher amp sizes. remember romex staples to tie it down. usually want a staple about 6 inches from outlet box.

Agree with olphart (being one myself). That is what a thermostat should do and if you just take it out your engine temp varies all over the place. Why would a guy working for $6 an hour at autozone be an authority? If the muffler is dented enough to seriously raise the back pressure the car would run like &^%$%^. Two things would cause high temp. Insufficient flow of coolant (bad pump, kinked hoses, restriction somewhere in the coolant Path). Insufficient air flow through the radiator (electric fan not running or not large enought to supplly sufficient air.) Assuming the radiator you put in is of the correct size for the vehicle.

check the fuse box itself. my 83zxt had a piece of the metal contact broken where the fuse for the mirrors was supposed to be inserted. Or you may have scorched some wires in the vicinity of the fuse box. First place I'd start checking.

Just replace the master and slave remember your car can drink legally and probably has the originals in it.

two entirely different engines so unlikely without some mods.