roger.svoboda

If you keep a clean machine with plenty ram you don't have those problems. IE7 works fine but when you try to run XP and IE7 with 250 MRam you going slower than a Honda Civic with a 6 inch tailpipe. I also computer geek what MOM said is correct. You need to maintain your computer with same meticulousness that you take care of your Z. (I'm assuming anyone on this sight does change their oil once in a while)

cylinder head temp sensor another likely culprit. If you don't have an accurate record of when the timing belt was changed. DO IT NOW. not fun when all your valves are bent. Check your clutch and brake fluid if black change it. Most z31 you get werent' well cared for. Also tranny and diffy fluid. Both main Battery cable ends for corrosion the stock strap type cable clamps usually split. Also run a 10 gage ground wire from the negative terminal over to both sides of engine compartment. Stock grounding wasn't the best. Just some stuff I would do first thing unless the guy is like me and has complete maintenance records.

check some of the other sites like classic z or zcar.com. There was a complete post somewhere about how to set valves and change out valve seals with out removing head.

probably easier to take the intake off but doable without. Turbo or n/a??

do a search on how to remove dash to get at CC. Not real hard but no fun. Take out the seats makes things a lot easier. Remove steering wheel. There are like four screws by the windshield and four underneath two under the climate control module are the ones everyone forgets.

You can test the speedo itself by running it with an electric or battery drill. on the zx speedos there is a legend that says something like 1000 rpm is sixty mph. a wooden match stick has about the right square section and strong enough to run the speedo. (course you need to take it out to do that). If speedo checks I would give the speedo cable a close visual inspection from the back of the speedo to the tranny. On two of my z's the cable had been pulled from its brackets giving me erratic operation. Once I put the cable back the way it was supposed to be everything worked fine. Don't know about 240 but on zx there is a short cable from the speedo that hooks to the long cable from the tranny and there is a plastic joiner piece where the hook up that falls out and if so no speedo reading. Hopefully someone else can confirm what you have on a 240. good luck nice to a young guy getting into z's.

You can get a decent VOM through harbor freight (online if none local) for like 15 bucks. I was quite amazed as i wanted something I wouldn't mind losing unlike my Fluke 83, but it is quite a nice little instument.

Remember to put a stick in there next time you pull a head. needs to be about 7" long 1.25 inches wide. I made mine out of a piece of one by lumber (3/4" thick). drill a hole in it and attach a piece of rope strong enough to pull it out. After making that goof I now have one hanging in a prominent location.

the rocker has to be on the part of the cam that is not part of the lobe. the whole purpose is to give some lost motion so that when the linkages ectc. heat up to operating temperature it assures that the valve is not being held open when on the non lobe portion of the cam. If you set them when the rocker is on the lobe it will not open the valve fully.

R 180 is not as wide as the R200. About 6+ inches and the r200 is 8+ inches. if you look at them from the rear the R180 Looks sort of like a rectangle with round corners and the R200 like a square with rounded corners. Put a ruler on it is the easiest way.

83zx n/a. got a blue and a black/white to the coil. Prolly 16 gage. 18 gage blk/wht goes to condenser. tother end probably goes to the dizzy. Didn't feel like getting dirty so early to find out. A/C compressor has a yellow wire which transitiions to blue about 8" from the compressor itself. All above wire descriptions are coming out of the original factory harness. This car was never worked on by shade tree mechanics cause one owner with money to spend only had qualified guys to work on it.

to change 0-5 v to 0-1v your best bet bet would be an operational amplifer. can get them from radio shack with appropriate diagrams to accomplish what you want.

copper gaskets can be annealed with a propane torch. heat to dull red, let cool. they are softer than a baby's butt. You can overtighten watch to see if you are squeezing it out. If you did enough wrench work you can tell when she tight by feel if not using 24" breaker bar to tighten.

adjust your free play for the brakes. there is a threaded rod to the master cylinder. make it longer by running the nuts in the right direction.

You want to use a U shaped motion when welding otherwise you get too much heat and blow out joint. By welding in a U you take heat to the unwelded section thus preheating it and allowing the hot spot at the joint to cool slightly before you come down and then make the other side of the U.

generally when welding pipe/tubing you use a chill ring which fits inside the pieces to be welded. Thus you can get full penetration of the tube because the chill ring prevents burning through. If you are going to reweld because you are unsure of the weld penetration you should V out the weld before rewelding. I would probably V out half the circumference reweld that and then do the other half with a bit of overlap.

I think the half moon bolts are found on later zx particularly turbo and 2+2

somehow you are getting confused an M12 bolt has a 17mm hex head. an m10 bolt has a 14 mm hex head. JIS standard (whot the japs use on cars) is the bolt head is 4mm larger across the flats than the diameter of the bolt until you get to 12mm when it jumps to 5mm. This pretty much covers the bolts you are going to find on a Z until you get into the larger sizes like 16mm and up. There are tables on the web were you can view these dimensions or find some one with machinery's handbook. You will very seldom find some sort of custom bolts because they get expensive and confusing. I repeat an m10 bolt with a 14mm hex head across the flats is a standard and easily available bolt. Nissan don't make bolts they buy them from someone. Most bolts you will find are stamped 8.8 because they are hardened.

What makes you think that is an odd bolt size?? It is ISO standard. why would you pay $9 for a 80c bolt you can get at any fastener place? Regardless of what the manual says if you have 10m/m holes lining up correctly for driveshaft and flange you would n't want to put an 8mm bolt in there. Hole be mighty sloppy at that fit. I'd probably use grade 8 bolts. Why do you think you need to replace them? Bolts in a drivelline fail in shear rather than tension so they only need to be tight enough to not back off.

nicely done very creative.

You have two items. a waste gate and a blowoff valve. The waste gate should open and regulate max pressure smoothly. The blowoff vavle is like a safety valve opens and closes no regulation. Sounds like they are working against each other. Do a search on this for more info.

If you look at the distributor cap it will have a line where #1 spark plug wire goes. AT TDC your rotor should be pointing at that line. This will get you close to where you should be and should be able to run the engine. It is very easy to get one tooth off on the drive gear. Engine will run but you will not be able to time properly with timing light. If that happens you need to drop the oil pump and then index one gear tooth in the direction that will allow you to set timing properly. Your pictures are too close up to tell where the thing is pointing.

someone changed it OR it was some oddball sold not in the US. Like you every zx I've seen has rack and pinion.

I think you need a better mechanic. If you are paying someone to do all this you need to get better help. Unless you are speaking metaphorically in the third person of yourself as the mechanic.

with a donor car right there you shouldn't have any problems. I did a 5 spd from an 81 n/a to a 81zxt. Only thing I ran into was driveshaft from the turbo auto had a larger output spline than the five speed so had do some driveshaft swapping but you should not have that problem. Don't know where you heard about weak rear ends but they all the same. for those years I believe everybody came with the R-180. The later zx had the R-200. You can tell which is which by measuring horizontally across the diffy. R-200 is like 8" across and the r-180 around 6". When you change pedals I found it was easier to pull the entire cage that holds the pedal assembly rather than trying to remount/dismount pedals in the car. It comes out by pulling the brake booster bolts and two bolts you have remove the gauge console to get at. You will swear it won't come out but keep wiggling and swearing at it and suddenly it just kinda jumps out in your hand. I was ready to give up and then one last tug and out she came. Disconnect linkages too obvioulsy. there is a welded clip on the body to keep the slave cylinder hose from hanging in the air. Not there on the auto tranny model. I didn't worry about that and had no problems. Even the rubber mounts have the third hole for the clutch hyddraulic line. but since you have the donor right there just move everythng over. Starter is the same there are some difference in the tin around the bellhousing but you got the donor right there so no problem just swap the stuff over. I think I could do the whole thing now in 4-6 hours. Tranny jack helpful. Get the car high enough to get the tranny out. Drain fluids or you get puddles. You need to pull flywheel clutch etc. might as well replace you are that far along. Rear engine seal you are already there. Some tips. pressure wash wheel wells saves eyeful of dirt you will get. Remove both seats. center console. put the windows down before you disconnect battery. Cut piece of 3/4 plywood to lay on when installing pedal cage. bell housing bolts can be got at from below with 2.5 to 3 foot extension and universal. Nice to have someone up top but not totally necessary. merle haggard would love you