RTz

You've been PM'd

Another, more recent, shot...

Now that's a KILL.

This 2+2 belongs to a customer of mine... Clint Barnts. It will soon be wearing a scratchbuilt intake and Wolf EFI system. P.S. Pay no attention to the obviously fast, rice'd Celebrity in the backround . . .

To my knowledge, HPtuner is not applicable to early L-Jet EFI. Please correct me if I'm mistaken!

Pretty much. Significantly more sensitive then OEM and, it seems, most aftermarket EMS's

Agreed, 711's are pretty damn decent for the $$$... but they suck in the wet.

True... especially on an L24 due to the restriction of the AFM being more significant on less displacement. BUT, have you ever installed/tuned MS? I'm guessing no. While it can/does work, it requires more diligence than other systems. FIX IT.

Amen.

I don't know whether to laugh or cry...

I'm curious... is English your first language?

If you continue to write as though you are 6, then you should expect to be treated as though you are 6.

Yes, it is possible to use 280 efi on an L24. Its not ideal though. There are many factors to consider, but the biggest issue is probably that the torque curve of the L24 is higher up the RPM range. It will definitely take a significant amount of fiddling. Depending on your budget, you may be better off with a stand alone system.

This probably won't help much but... The VG30DETT has been successfully installed in an S30 at least a couple of times. My point? the VQ35, believe it or not, is substantially 'tidier' than the VG30DE.

VR sensor, trigger wheel, EDIS module, coil-packs, and pigtails. PM BRAAP... I think he has an extra system for sale. Just a suggestion... It would be far easier to read your posts with some effort towards capitalization/spelling/punctuation.

2000 Chev. Suburban. All sources I've been able to dig up suggest that they are electrically the same as LS1 coils. Difference being the location of the wires... These have the HT and LT leads opposite each other while the LS1's have them on the same side of the coil.

I think you're barking up the wrong tree... constant flow means having an injector open at all times while modulating fuel pressure. None of the current aftermarket EFI systems that I'm aware of are intended to be used this way... and its about 10 steps backward in complexity and control, in my opinion. A pair of fair sized TB injectors should do the job well with a stand-alone EFI system.

Jon, Or... you could just ship them to me/him and one of us will take care of that for you.

Rob, I would see it as the injectors needing to be 3 times larger... opening for the same duration.

All you need is the butterfly... 'delete' everything else.

Chewievette, Interesting idea. I think the difference between a 90 deg. inj and one that is 'optimum' is going to be negligible in most cases. You'd be most likely to notice it at idle and very light loads, when airflow is low. Mount them at whatever angle you can in the upper chambers and you should be fine. 4 injectors (instead of two) coupled with MS might have an idle quality advanatage as well. MS's resolution is not that great (0.1 millisec) and this could become critical with two large injectors. However, I did hear rumor of a new code release that improves MS's resolution... I haven't looked into that yet.

Ok, I *think* I see where the confusion is... I would refer to that as "mechanical" timing (or even static timing). Its mostly irrelevant at this point. Some systems will accomodate mechanical timing with an "offset" variable in the software. Electromotive just expects you to add or subtract the known amount on your own. Not a show stopper in any case. Moving on... Again MS would probably be the cheapest way to retain a dizzy and have full control, including two igniton maps (one for NOS, if you like). I'm not sure if MJ has the two map feature... you'll have do dig. If it does, then MJ would save you a couple dollars in the end. Yes, EDIS implements multiple wasted-spark coils. Its triggered with a crank sensor... a 36-1 wheel and a VR sensor (variable reluctor). Pretty straight forward. EDIS interfaces pretty well with MS, IME. Cost is largely dependant on your local JY... EDIS systems around here can typically be had at U-pulls for $40 to $75. An assembled MS box from DIY AutoTune runs around $240 to $330. Add your choice of wires and there you go... P.S. Most pawn shops in my area sell used laptops for $150-$250 and I'm sure you could do better elsewhere... you don't need anything fancy. HTH

Mike, If you hang everything on initial timing, especially with NOS, you will very likely melt your motor. Initial timing is only relevant at idle right? How much time do you spend idling? Catch my drift? Yes, with a traditional distributor, adjusting initial timing pushes the whole curve up or down, but the curve itself remains constant. If you find the correct timing at high RPM/LOAD (by adjusting initial) then what do you do about the midrange? How about the low end? The fast guy's would then re-curve their distributor to optimize the timing everywhere. Why? because you just can't get there with initial timing. With a stand alone system, when you adjust initial, the only thing that changes is idle timing. You must develop the curve. Do it wrong on NOS and you've got liquid metal If this all sound like its not worth the bother to you, then I would suggest sticking with a standard distributor thats been curved by someone with NOS experience. I'll bet an entire dollar that GrumpyVette can point you in the direction of just such a thing.

Elaborate?