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RTz

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Posts posted by RTz

  1. Well I guess I should ask this. Whats makes the L24 so undesirable to build as a power motor.

     

     

    Because an L24 has a street value of $25.00. An L28, $30.00.

     

    Point is, there isn't much monetary difference between the two. BUT, the L28 has 16% more displacement and, all things being equal, 16% more power is a pretty darn good return on your money.

     

    If you're rules restricted, the story is different. If not, the decision is simplified.

     

    Can we close this thread now?

  2. With phones, it really is a "one size doesn't fit all" thing. Somethings important to you, might not be important to someone else...

     

     

    Someone finally gets it :cheers:

  3. I voted L28ET. This is totally personal preference, but there is something about swapping a non-Nissan motor that just bugs the hell outta me! It may as well not be a Z car, you know? Personally, I like the fact that you can throw an L28ET in a 240z and run with the modern motors of today and still keep that nostalgic inline L motor in the car. This is off topic, but I just saw a Viper roll up to an intersection outside the window of my work. Anyways, another thing I like about the swap is that so many parts are interchangeable between the L series motor, its great! It is true the LS motors are the best bang for your buck...but why!? Obviously the guys that do it are looking at power to weight ratio, but man, what a slap in the face to Nissan! Just my opinion :)

     

     

    Rule #7....

     

    7. Remember, this is a Hybrid site. Do not ever get on the purist Datsun/Nissan soapbox or promote Datsun/Nissan only swaps. The Admins/moderators will not tolerate this. The mere mention of keeping your Z "all Datsun" will be frowned upon. Several other sites exist for this mindset.

     

     

    Make those comments somewhere else, please.

  4. I'd be interested in hearing a first hand report as well. One of the drawbacks of my BMW swap is that there is no VSS in the transmission (BMW puts them in the diff.) I have a workaround for it, but the GPS may be a more elegant solution.

  5. Mongo stopped by with his Mona Lisa today. He kindly offered the keys, so BRAAP and I took it for a short trip. A little more tuning and this car is gonna rip. But... but... but... the intriguing part is the rear suspension. An unfamiliar car with a prototype suspension demands some discretion, ergo the drive was decidedly cautious. However, I will say this... the only Z's I've driven that ride this good and deliver this much power, squat excessively... and Johns car does NOT. Definitely keeping an eye on this Z's future.

     

    Two thumbs John! :2thumbs:

  6. I've never liked the position of the stock Z shifter. It's too far forward for my tastes. I much prefer the shifter be on a similar plane as the steering wheel. Exaggerating the problem is my 2 1/2" steering wheel spacer. Fortunately, the BMW trans. is external rail and lengthening the rails was not much effort. I lengthened them exactly 8" with 1/2" solid aluminum round stock, welded to either side of the original upper rail. The lower rail was done with a single piece of steel tubing. I believe it's possible to do this this swap with the shifter landing in the stock location, but you'll need to get creative with shifter offset.

     

     

    ShifterLengthend2.jpg

     

     

    ShifterLengthend.jpg

     

     

    ShifterTunnel.jpg

     

     

     

    The third picture (above) also shows the aluminum block machined to accept the stock BMW bushing for the rear shifter mount.

     

     

    Needed a notch in the tunnel stiffener. The upper shift rail needs this 'pocket' to run through. Notched, sealed, and undercoated...

     

     

    TunnelBraceNotch.jpg

     

     

     

     

    An 18ga sheet steel plate was fab'd, welded in, seam sealed, painted, and undercoated to accommodate the new shifter location...

     

     

     

    ShifterInside.jpg

     

     

     

    ShifterInside2.jpg

     

     

     

    Driveshaft installed (notice the copious exhaust room!)...

     

     

     

    DriveshaftInstalled.jpg

     

     

     

    I can now address the driveline geometry question with some certitude. After shimming the RT diff. mount 1/4", the guibo is running at an angle of 0.1 degrees (it's able to run with some angular deflection, but it needs to stay as straight as practical). The CV joint is running at 1.6 degrees, well within the comfort zone of CV's.

     

    Today, I can officially claim the drivetrain to be fully mated. Think I'll have a beer :mrgreen:

  7. I ordered an iPhone 4 a week or two ago because my AT&T contract was up and they allowed me to purchase it at the subsidized $200 and some odd price. I haven't actually paid for it yet I don't think because Apple won't have them available to ship to me until July 22nd. Aftering stewing on it for the past two weeks I was wondering if it's actually worth spending the money over say an air dam or something Z related. I have a 3G as of now. Thanks for the opinons.

     

    If your 3G is in good overall condition, you should be able to sell it for more than $200. I know of people that pulled that much out of 2G phones, and over $400 for the 3GS's.

     

    My iP4 arrives this Tues. I'm expecting it to be a significant jump over my 4 year old 1st gen. phone.

  8. I'm going to give away two sets of stickers, one small/one large x 2.

     

    One set will go to the member that posts whatever raffle/game I chose, the second set will go to the winner of chosen 'game'.

     

    In other words...

     

    1) Propose the entertainment. Whichever members idea I use, wins one set of stickers. Deadline 8/1/10. Note: If your idea is the same as another member, whomever posted it first is victor.

     

    2) Afterward, win chosen game, and another set will be shipped to your doorstep. Note: If the game is information based, you are not eligible for both scenarios.

     

    Easy enough?

     

    Let the games begin...

     

     

     

    P.S. I will be more inclined to chose games that are related to automobiles, and especially jaded if the content is Datsun related :mrgreen:

     

    P.P.S Sticker information here... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89174-hybrid-z-vinyl-stickers-for-sale-support-your-favorite-forum/

  9. I can get a ls6 Coil pack, brackets and wirening harness, Im running msd6a, with halteche11v2

     

     

    Do not use the MSD6A with any LSx coils.

     

     

    Should I get a ls6 coil pack from a z06 corvette?

     

    or should I get the ls1 coil pack from the suburban or a camaro??

     

     

    I apologize if I'm jumping to the wrong conclusion but, if you're referring to the brackets I sell, they only work with the truck/Suburban coils.

  10. Now Im being told it is my Fuel Pressure Reg or my Cold Start Valve.

     

     

    Yes, it would be wise to check your fuel pressure.

     

    Yes, a cold start valve can cause excessively rich conditions. You can probably get away with deleting it altogether. My Z's start just find down to 8 deg. F.

     

    It's common to have a malfunctioning water temp. sensor/circuit. Usually poor connections, but the sensors are also suspect. An improperly working water temp. sensor will flood an engine pretty quickly.

     

    The AFM can also cause similar symptoms, but more challenging to diagnose. Start with the simple stuff.

     

    Download the EFI Bible. It's not specific to your turbo EFI, but it's heavily related and will help you understand the concepts.

     

     

    Please avoid cross posting. I'll delete the other thread.

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