RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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If I were to tackle something like this, I would be looking hard at aftermarket EFI. Some of them are powerful enough to control electronic transmissions... then it's a matter of using auxiliary channels for paddle inputs.
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It's a little hard to read, but the angular dimension noted in post #20 is a frogs whisker over 49 Deg.
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Posts deleted. This forum is not about guessing, nor is it a chat room. Post the results or don't, but stop playing games.
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The OE water plumbing under the intake is a goofy looking thing and it doesn't fit it's new home so well...
I deleted the throttle-body heat, relocated the heater return, and eliminated the expansion tank. The cooling system retains a constant high-point bleed and bypass (small hose running to the top of the radiator), but expansion is now handled by a traditional recovery tank ('89 Mazda B2200)...
The Datsun clutch MC is too small to work with the BMW clutch. The BMW master is 3/4" but it has different pedal leverage. A quick phone call to Pegasus and...
The Tilton 74 series MC has the same bolt pattern as the Datsun, but it requires a couple small mods to work... shorten the rod a touch, tweak the hard-line a smidge, and install an SAE flare nut.
Unfortunately I blew the math. It functions... stiffly. A 1" MC is bigger than it needs to be. I'll have to back up and re-run the numbers, but for now, it'll get the car driving.
So... the Great Pumpkin is officially off the jack-stands until after start up. Only three projects left on the to-do list... chassis electrical, EFI, and the M50 intake conversion.
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Hey Ron, did you do an OBD-1 swap?
Nope. Sticking with Wolf.
You've got the M50 intake, just wondering if you have the M50 injectors and fuel rail and ECU?I have both manifolds and both rails. I'll be using the M50 manifold with S52 injectors. Some of the info below is for you, and some is for everyone else. You'll know what to skip...
The S52 manifold that came on the '96-'99 M3's have *much* smaller runners and a slightly smaller plenum than the M50 manifolds. According to bmw-m.net, a flow bench showed an average of 46% greater flow per cylinder. It may sound like overkill, but keep in mind the M50 manifold was original equipment on '95 M3's. Torque peak was @ 4250 on 3.0 liters. With the later/smaller/OBDII manifold, torque peak comes in at 3800 on 3.2 liters.
It's a popular swap. Mostly inexpensive, and the HP claims range from 10 to 25 on otherwise stock motors.
Runner difference is very visible...
As implied, you trade some bottom end power for top end. Since this car will be roughly 700 lbs lighter, geared slightly lower, with a more aggressive exhaust than the donor M3 it came from, I don't feel it's a misdirected step.
Where it is pertinent to my Z... In the picture below, you see the S52 manifold, rail, and it's proximity to the hood latch. With the poly engine mounts, this is plenty of clearance...
But, have a look at the next picture. The M50 manifold raises the injectors (and concurrently the rail) approximately 1"...
There definitely isn't room for that. However, the M50 manifold is fitted with a shorter rail (rectangular instead of square). It's a bit closer to the latch, but still doable with poly mounts.
In short, use a matching rail... S52 rail with S52 manifold. M50 rail with M50 manifold.
A couple of additional notes...
(1) The rail mounts are in slightly different locations and will require small offset plates if you mix them.
(2) The S52 rail has a Schrader valve built-in and no pressure regulator. The M50 has a built-in regulator, but no Schrader.
(3) The M50 conversion is not a direct bolt on. There are no provisions for the air/oil separator and the ancillary plumbing is very different.
Also, isn't there an HFM that's suppose to go inbetween the filter and the throttle body?
Yes... if you use BMW's EFI. Most aftermarket EMS's allow you to use an alternate load device. In the case of Wolf, I can use just about any load sensor available, ie AFM, MAF, TPS, or MAP. This installation will be MAP based.
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280zex, I suggest you don't do that again.
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1) I usually find them on 240's. I'm also pretty certain there is an aftermarket company or two selling them. You might check with zccjdm.com
2) If you are doing it for weight purposes, I might advise against it, especially if you plan to spin the motor at high RPM. Generally, a heavy front damper and light flywheel/clutch is better for our L6's.
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Rear disks are much more consistent.
Exactly.
I've swapped a few S30's over to modest rear discs, purely for consistency. Most of my activities are street and autocross (where repeatability wins races). Stock fronts, appropriately sized rear discs, prop valve, and a proper set of pads have served me well... even with V8 power.
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cgmeredithjr, You've made gallant claims for many months now, with little validation other than a parts list. Don't expect everyone here to bow and kneel because you say so. If you can back it up empirically, terrific. Many of us would be delighted if you did.
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Definitely something to be proud of. Well done John.
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First, an apology for the cell phone pics. My DSLR battery charger has been AWOL for a few weeks and I know, just as soon as I buy a replacement, it'll reappear. I'd really like it to surface BEFORE then
12 lb single-mass flywheel and new (stock M3) clutch arrived...
As did an LC1. I've used the G5 gauge in the past and it works nicely when fitted to the stock clock location...
Made plugs for the air injection system...
Re-routed the clutch hydraulics to the drivers side. This opened up a nice spot to run the AN/Pushloc converted fuel supply line. I'm running the fuel rail in dead-head mode and abandoning the return line. BMW did this electronically- sort of... the system is run in recirculation mode for 20 seconds after start up, after which a solenoid switches to non-recirc.
Lokar throttle cable is an easy fit and nearly a straight shot...
Unbolted the stock heater supply elbow (pointing the wrong direction) and screwed in a barb fitting. I wouldn't do this again. What I didn't realize at the time is there is a pipe press-fitted into the head to create that water jacket. I *thought* it was cast in. I discovered this shortly after drilling this for 1/2" NPT. I stopped before going far enough to become a problem, fortunately. There is enough room for a couple of other choices, but this one is done
Radiator hoses, air filter, and a few misc chores are also checked off the list. A note on the air filter: I have a few different ideas for the intake. They are all either involved or expensive, so this will serve the purpose... for now.
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Bawb,
If I remember correctly, you're planning to boost your motor. Do you have much need for aftermaket? Your stock cams will probably be more than adequate, as you've mentioned a standalone should be in the recipe, JE Pistons can handle any CR goal, the chances of any BMW turbo manifold fitting a Z are pretty well nill, so it's a wash either way, plumbing will always have to be custom for these types of projects, etc, etc. Unless your target is 1000hp, the road blocks should be manageable. In other words, stop making excuses and get that damn thing running so we can rendezvous at the first annual EuroZfest
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As garvice pointed out, there can be advantages. As long as you have some respect for what you're doing, it's a great exercise.
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How true is this?
It can be true with some of the Chinese mounts that you find at Kragen, Carquest, etc. I've had good luck with OEM GM mounts. They're softer and stronger. Of course the Energy Suspension poly mount is tougher yet.
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This is exactely what I am looking at doing right now, Front and rear suspension, rear end 5 speed and 7M from a MKIII Supra.
Still getting measurments from it to see if it will work and if I will have to cut the subs.
I got flamed for it when i suggested it, however from this post I am inspired to go for it.
No, you didn't get flamed for it. Don't be running around here spreading fallacies about our members.
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Rocket Blocks were desirable at one time. My memory is fuzzy enough that I don't recall all the differences. The one that sticks out is a raised cam (for longer stroke cranks). BRAAP and grumpyvette would probably be good people to ping.
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Sticky, You've got a PM coming.
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Nice vid. Quick car. Thanks for sharing.
P.S. Pay no attention to sticky280zx. He's still in diapers
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Spydr26, Tone it down.
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If we're talking real CF construction, I'll take a 240 dash please
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One of my customers lives in Beaverton, has NO cat, and passes easily. He does have an aftermarket EFI system, however. I believe he's familiar with various testing stations in the area. Member name datsun79z.
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Got a tip from a member on Bimmer Forums that Bimmerworld is capable of EWSII deletes on OBDII ECU's. So I gave them a jingle to confirm. I was told it was car dependent (no go for some 328's), but yes they can flash E36 M3's. The price is pretty fair as well, at $200. You'll need to give them a call for your specific ECU/DME.
That sure simplifies the use of OBDII electronics!
Scratchbuilt L6 EFI Intake Manifold
in Other Projects
Posted
Yeah, it was scrapped for a BMW manifold...
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/79806-rt260-bmw-m-powered/
The CF plug is sitting high on a shelf. When I'm feeling nostalgic I may pull it down have another go at it. The BMW conversion comes first, as well as one other large project, so it may be a few decades