RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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Very excited for you, David. The Euro spec motor should make for a remarkable Z... 7 lbs/hp, all the silky-ness and music of a straight-six, with a dose of NA ITB response. Jealous, I am.
Thanks for sharing
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I don't see how you lose suspension travel when you cut below the perch and weld it on lower. Explain?
If you lower the bottom perch, and use the same spring, the car will sit lower, agreed? The car is now lower and so is the upper perch/isolator/bump stop. The top of the gland nut remains at the same height, but now sits closer to the bump stop. That equates to less bump travel. Total travel hasn't changed. You are trading bump for droop.
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You guy's are too kind.
My stock tachometer had become sticky on the top end and the stock speedometer isn't readily adaptable to this conversion. Time for new gauges. I liked what I was seeing from Speedhut, so I rolled the dice. Conveniently, they build a GPS speedometer. Since there are no speed outputs on the ZF transmission (electric or mechanical), this made things easy...
GPS antenna...
Drove the car into town and ran a few errands. The speedo worked beautifully. Time will tell how well it works in more challenging conditions.
To get the car up and running, I used a stock Datsun EFI pump and regulator (with the stock carb'd tank). The intention has always been to re-vamp the whole fuel system when I was ready for another project. It's looking like I'm going to have move that project's priority up a couple notches as I am running out of duty cycle around 5500rpm (due mostly to the lower fuel pressure).
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I don't know how I missed the word "hood". Sorry. Carry on.
Easy miss... thread title was vague. Fixed.
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Jon, I think he is talking about 'hood lifts'. I've seen the conversion as well. I'll do some digging when I get a break.
EDIT: Drats, Waddie beat me to the punch.
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All the time.
Maybe you should wear some dark sunglasses
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You are correct, I prefer less chit chat and more technical discussion.
No, I'm not a fan of asking questions for the SAKE of asking questions. It consumes bandwidth, pollutes the database and reduces the effectiveness of the search engine.
Yes, I am not usually stimulated by subjective questions on a technical forum. And subjective questions about undefinable moving targets are even less useful.
The average Z on this forum probably swings 15-20% in value just between winter and summer alone. And you've been kind enough to narrow it down to "one day".
What good is a question if critical information is unknown or left out?
How much faith can you put in an answer if it's based on guesses?
What good is an answer if it's wrong?
And yes, I *AM* the worst Admin here, but you're stuck with me
P.S. It would a good idea for you to read... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/89218-locking-out-accounts-of-members-posting-without-a-location/
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I just hope I didn't 'pressure' you into it. You know I'll support whatever direction you choose.
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Ross, I am with you on pursuing the most accurate timing method possible. I have spent some time around an engine dyno and I can tell you that one a degree error in ignition timing on a high compression (16:1+CR)engine is critical,
big horspower gain/loss or melted pistons.
And none of them were mild street cars relying on pump gas.
Please keep some perspective on what Ross is building. It's not an F1 qualifier, Top Fuel, or NASCAR. It's a mild motor, running mild boost, on inconsistent fuel. For his goals, a +/- shift of 2 degrees from MBT won't be consistently measurable with common dynamometers. Been there, done that. Further, if you are attempting to run that close to the ragged edge on a street car, I would probably recommend getting some counseling for that gambling addiction you're fostering
I would also mention that most OEMs have used both a cam and crank sensor (even in the absence of variable cam timing).Yes, modern OE engine management REQUIRES them. Not for the purposes of power or melted pistons. They're there to meet the stringent regulations of OBD (miss-fire tracking is the big one). Not only is this complexity not necessary for most of us on this forum, none of the mid-range EMS's have the ability to take advantage of that technology. It's moot in Ross's case.
Additionally, all things being equal, two position sensors have twice the potential for failure. Lose either one while visiting Aunt Nelly in Nebraska and you're parked until diagnosed and repaired. Lose a cam sensor on a modern OE car, and you'll still limp home. Different technology for different purposes. Apples and pears.
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Hello hybridz i am trying to gage the value of my 71 240z. so if i where to sell it one day i could bet the best bang for my buck.
Worry about it when "one day" comes. What its worth today is likely to be something different when you sell it. It's a pointless question, in my opinion.
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Thanks Bo,
Succumbed to peer pressure
...I thought I'd give the GPS speedometer a whirl. I don't have a speed sensor (mechanical or electric) so this is an easy solution.
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...a crank trigger is a more accurate than a distributor since it shortcuts the slop in the distributor's mechanism.
With a traditional distributor, yes, there can be a fair bit of slop. With a turbo ZX distributor, the only slop is between the crankshaft and spur gear. I'll bet the slop is less than you think.
A few yeas back, I ran a test with a standard distributor. I posted this shortly after...
I installed a VR sensor on the crank of my 510 (still L- powered). I also installed the matchbox style elec. dizzy. This sensor is also VR. I then took a two channel O-scope and data logged both VR's. Keep in mind that the dizzy still had mech. advance (also vacuum adv. but disconnected). In general, 80% of the time, they 'scattered' inside of 4 deg.
That's WITH the advance mechanisms in place, and that is where the brunt of the slop is going to be found, by far.
I bet if KTM puts a timing light on his car, the crank damper will appear to be rock solid, or pretty close, as long as there isn't excessive wear on those two parts.
Don't let us dissuade you. If two sensors makes you happy, go for it. Just trying to make sure you get what you want.
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In all seriousness, how are there people who speak English as a 2nd, 3rd, or even 4th language, whom obviously don't have a firm grasp on our grammar, that can still be better understood than one born in this country?
I would say that foreigners do, in many cases, understand our grammar better. One of my closer friends is not native English. He could rip my grammar to pieces if he wished. It's a social problem, not a geography problem. -
I was thinking (probably incorrectly) that Wolf could use the two closely spaced slots (0 and drilled hole, you call them "dual pulse" in the sticky) as an indicator of the crank cycle.
That only applies to whichever trigger you are relying on for timing events. Crank sensor in your case.
The coil firing would be triggered by the crank sensor and the optical sensor in the distributor would be used to indicate the crank position relative to the engine cycle. Not sure how to state that in Wolf terms.Wolf phraseology would be "Reference+Sync". Reference being the crank sensor and sync being the cam sensor. Again, this applies to your particular situation. If you think about it, using the example you listed above (in the sticky), the 6 evenly spaced slots would be "reference" and the additional, closely spaced slot, would be the "sync" pulse (only happens once per 720 degrees, correct?). The difference is that you're splitting the duties between two sensors. Make sense?
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I assumed (without actually looking at the software) that it could be set up similar to your "Sequencing Batch Fired Coils" sticky: "Ignition 1 Pulse Offset" is set up to fire relative to slot "0" and "Ignition 1 Pulse Skip" = 5. Every time slot 0 comes around Wolf would know cylinder 1 is on compression TDC. Can Wolf determine the sync pulse in this manner?
Not exactly. I think we need to back up a bit... your crank sensor is going to provide engine position information. All ignition and injection events will be timed to the crank trigger. The crankshaft makes 2 complete rotations (720 degrees) for the four complete cycles. The only thing the 'cam' sensor is doing is keeping track of which 'cycle' the engine is on by telling the ECU every time the crank has made two revolutions. Of course that's simplified, but the point is, the cam sensor should only be reporting one pulse every OTHER revolution of the crankshaft. No events are directly triggerd from the cam sensor in this type of installation.
Side note: A proper cam trigger can be used in lieu of a crank signal. Using both adds complexity and the gains are typically less than the variations normally found within A dyno. For most of us mortals, a cam trigger is more than satisfactory.
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You're on the right track. A couple things...
1) The red wire supplied by Wolf in the trigger harness is 5v. You can use it if you like, but 12v will provide a bit more buffer for noise. I've done both successfully.
2) I'm not versed with the Ford VR, so I'm uncertain of it's polarity. You may or may not have to reverse those two wires (A28 and A29). It won't harm anything to get it wrong, and the laptop will show you straight away if it's working correctly or not.
One question; How are you planning to use the Datsun CAS for a single sync pulse? Custom disc, or covering 5 holes, or?
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I started a 3D ACAD model of the structure. Mostly frame rails, strut towers, suspension pick-up's, firewall, core support, and drive-train mount locations. Parroting the others... what's the scoop? I may be coerced into contributing for the right reasons (beer
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...(2) unflinching enforcement of the rules of English (such as in an internet forum, hint hint....) is ultimately futile and self-defeating.
I agree with you, at least in absolute terms. To be clear, no staff member expects perfection... simply effort. Effort to be 'legible'. If you have to re-read a post 3 times and you're still lost, or you can't read it once without reaching for the Mylanta, there is a problem. Nine times out of ten it's directly related to laziness and lack of respect for the group. That's where we get cranky. If you can't muster the effort to write a readable sentence, how on earth do you expect to rummage the effort it takes to build a car? Tony is correct... garbage begets garbage.
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Hey Bo, I'm getting pretty close to popping for a tach. and speedo. Are you still happy with these? Anything you don't like about them? I assume you bought them direct from Speedhut?
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Interesting note about the CkPS. Friend and I had a GT35R Fed Built S50 running Tec3r (From Vic Sias) that had so many issues with the crank trigger/sensor. Basically it boiled down to the Tec3 not wanting to play nicely with the BMW sensors.
That sounds like a good solution to the issues. However, we went back to stock engine management with a TRM Chip for on the fly tuning.
Electromotive gives you three choices... 60-2, 60-2, or 60-2
Wolf is pretty flexible with triggers. Not too much it can't be configured to. Of course the downside is some extra complexity. It's all a trade off. -
Engine wouldn't shut off with the key. Hate that. Put a diode on the alternator field wire. Fixed. Probably end up re-pathing the field wire as to not rely on the diode.
Been arm wrestling a finicky crank sensor. I didn't want to use the BMW sensor simply because they are bit expensive and not praised for reliability. I built a simple adapter to mate a Honeywell GT101 Hall sensor. I can buy one for the motor, one for the glovebox, and still have $50 left over. Over a couple day's of futzing with this sensor, it was becoming obvious that it wasn't going to work as-is (intermittent trigger errors and an overly picky air gap). Stuck the trigger wheel on the Birmingham and turned it into a 30-1 wheel (stock is 60-2). Quick reconfigure of Wolf and.... perfection. No more trigger errors and the gap is no longer ultra-sensitive (useful window was within .020", and now it's over .100").
Took the car out for it's first drive. Just a few blocks and no 'angriness' (sorry Drax/Cygnus, it's coming). Even with no tune time, It's WAY torque-ier than an L-series... and it's far too loud
After the 1st I should be able to start getting serious about tuning
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So... you're trying to re-wire your EFI without a schematic? You know, they're pretty easy to come by?
I'll toss you a bone...
1) Injectors are not polarized. You can swap positive and negative.
2) The heavy solid green wire is power from the fusible links. Other wire is from the ECU and grounds the injectors to fire them.
Now, for heavens sakes, go buy a manual.
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There is (or was) a one-wire connector right above the factory ECU. It connected to pin 1 of the ECU and this is where the ECU got it's RPM information from. I have used this same connector to drive the tach with aftermarket ECU's.
You guy's are too kind.
rt260, BMW M Powered
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Thank you, Matt.
This post isn't so much about my Z, but rather a fellow enthusiast. Katokid and I have been talking off and on for a while now, and his project is quickly approaching critical mass. He's one-up'd me by a good margin... a Euro spec 3.2L...
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97688-s50b32-euro-m-powered-240/page__gopid__917221#entry917221