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HybridZ

RTz

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Posts posted by RTz

  1. ZO6 if autocrossing is important. Great 'tool', but not the most refined.

    NSX... positively drooling AND the wife will probably enjoy the right seat as much as you enjoy the left (is that sexist?).

    Clown shoe... fun AND practical. Drive it every day anywhere and still embarrass most other cars.

    P car... Yes :-)

  2. You just described the intent of this forum.

     

    This is very much the 'drive' of our aggressive rules enforcement. Descriptive titles, accurate spelling, and as fact-based as practical. This place *is* a Wiki just as soon as the whole group applies reasonable diligence.

  3. Thanks guys. Quickie update-

     

    M50 manifold conversion complete.

    Battery, starter, and alternator are wired.

    ECU mounted.

    Water temp sensor, water temp sender, air temp, crank sensor, VANOS, TPS, oil pressure sender, air regulator, and canister purge are wired.

     

    All downhill from here. Guessing about 30 or so hours left...

  4. ...just an observation, the injector holes for cylinders 3 & 4 (on this drawing) should be on the opposite side of the runner centerline. That's how their shown and dimensioned on the previous injector spacing drawing. Again, just an observation.

     

     

    Your observation is correct! Good catch. The injector layout in post #2 is accurate. All these drawings are old and unorganized... the remains of dual hard drive failure. I'll put it on my todo to re-create and scrub them.

     

    Thanks again.

  5. I replaced the clutch MC with a 13/16" model. I was planning on waiting until after start up, but it was haunting me. Pedal effort is firm, but reasonable. More like a C4 than an M3 :wink: I think a 3/4" MC would work (15% less effort) but I think it would be approaching the minimum travel limit. The Datsun pedal has roughly 20% less travel than the BMW, and that's not helping matters.

     

    Another item to check off is the water temp sender. There really isn't a good place for it. I came up with an easy, but less than ideal solution. I used a stock Z sender (BMW sender is a very different range), the BMW hose barb (screws into the head) and a 16mm nut (the nut from the diff strap is the right size and pitch). Machined a sleeve with a tapered seat and welded it together...

     

     

    WaterSenderParts.jpg

     

     

    WaterSenderAssy.jpg

     

     

    WaterSenderFinished.jpg

     

     

    TempSenderandSensor.jpg

     

     

     

    It's in contact with the water, but not exposed to water FLOW. I'm expecting this to slow the gauge down some. Since the water temp sensor is in close proximity and Wolf will report the numbers real-time, I'll get a good feel of how much I can trust it. If it proves to be unreasonable, there is a plan B... the port in the head was originally used to supply water to the throttle body, and returned water to the water manifold just below it. It wouldn't be difficult to create a similar path with the temp sender in between, exposing the sender to water flow. I'm trying to avoid doing this because all of this water then bypasses the radiator. Or, I may just cowboy up, use the BMW sender, and do some electronic work.

     

    Ordered a new OE oil pressure sender from Jordan at Lithia Nissan. BMW used an oil pressure switch with 12mm x 1.5 threads and a copper gasket. I machined a bolt with matching threads, and tapped 1/8" NPT threads into the head...

     

     

    OilP1.jpg

     

     

    OilP2.jpg

     

     

     

    Installed the G5...

     

     

    G5Installed.jpg

     

     

     

    And when I wasn't looking, BRAAP was kind enough to install an airbag for me (he probably thinks I need it)...

     

     

    Airbag.jpg

     

     

     

    On a tangent, I made another set of engine mounts for a fellow enthusiast. He'll be doing some fitment testing on his car to see what else we run into...

     

     

    BMWS30MotorMountsforKatoKid.jpg

  6. Hey ron, you happen to have a full dimension breakdown of that manifold flange? I assume it's got the larger diameter ports which are slightly raised, yea? If not that's ok, I'll figure it out on my own eventually, just would save me some time (not that what I'm working on will go to production, but it's fun non-the-less).

     

     

    I'll see what I can dig up for you this weekend.

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