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RTz

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Posts posted by RTz

  1. As a owner of a 77 z and a 97 BMW 328IS i am really really really really looking forward to the supercheap well built completly turnkey kit you will surely be selling this week to swap the bmw motor in to my beloved z...

     

     

    Absolutely. Please deposit $19.95 in my paypal account :wink:

     

     

    more posts and pics please =0)

     

     

    If you insist :mrgreen: First fit into my 260...

     

     

    FirstFit.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. Best bet is use an injector that is the same percentage smaller in flow vs the l28 injector, then the chances of getting the l28 efi to to run smoothly in most or all conditions will be better or install an l28 under the l28 efi.

     

    Or lower the fuel pressure.

     

     

    - You can also insert a variable resistor inline with the coolant sensor to lean it out if needed.

     

    Just to clarify, if a resistor is installed in series, the mixture will be richer. Installed in parallel, leaner. However, a parallel resistor will flatten the curve out across the temp range.

     

     

    Uh, the 260Z block is not provisioned for EFI, i.e., the cressant-shaped notches in the block for the injectors to spray into cylinders are not there; it won't run `cause the injectors spray on the block above the ports and the fuel 'drips' down into the hole. You would have to file the holes to make the (cressant) notches for the injector spray if you're adamant about keeping your L26 in the car. I heard from an Aussie that did this...

     

    It's not the block, rather the head. See post #1...

     

    [assuming i have a head which can handle injection eg p79]

  3. I have minimal experience with MS, but I've done a few aftermarket EMS swaps and have never been able to get the tach. working directly on a 280zx. There are tach. adapters available that 'condition' the signal. MSD makes one and seems to work fine.

     

    Did your temp gauge work before MS was installed? Unless you've altered the circuit, it's completely independent of the EFI. Also, the wire shouldn't be "hanging from the sender". There is a 'post' on the sender that the yellow wire plugs into.

  4. Took a full day to prune the engine compartment harness... no more shunt, EGR, voltage reg., interlock, emergency switch, A/C controls, or ignition module.

     

     

     

    PrunedHarness.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

    Also built the crossmember spacers (1/2"). I probably should have bought these from JTR ($25.00 shipped), but I had the material on hand and the milling machine made quick work of it.

     

     

     

    CrossSpacers.jpg

  5. Removed...

     

    Front/rear bumpers and shocks.

    Factory A/C (underhood components only).

    Spare tire & jack.

     

     

    Installed...

     

    240 front bumper.

    MSA Type 1 air dam.

    15x6.5 alloy wheels with 205/50/15 Potenza RE-11's.

     

     

    Dry weight w/full interior, L28E, and 5 speed... 2450lbs

     

    Looks like my target of 2500lbs should be do-able.

     

     

     

    Modeled up the Ron Davis radiator. I think I've settled on the mounts. I want to be able to bolt it up to the stock locations. So far this is the cleanest option I've come up with...

     

     

     

    RonDavisB.jpg

     

     

     

    Rad1.png

     

     

     

    Rad2.png

     

     

     

     

     

     

    I'm still hammering out the fan shroud....

     

     

     

    Rad3.png

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