[fuel injected L26]

Best bet is use an injector that is the same percentage smaller in flow vs the l28 injector, then the chances of getting the l28 efi to to run smoothly in most or all conditions will be better or install an l28 under the l28 efi.

 

Or lower the fuel pressure.

 

 

- You can also insert a variable resistor inline with the coolant sensor to lean it out if needed.

 

Just to clarify, if a resistor is installed in series, the mixture will be richer. Installed in parallel, leaner. However, a parallel resistor will flatten the curve out across the temp range.

 

 

Uh, the 260Z block is not provisioned for EFI, i.e., the cressant-shaped notches in the block for the injectors to spray into cylinders are not there; it won't run `cause the injectors spray on the block above the ports and the fuel 'drips' down into the hole. You would have to file the holes to make the (cressant) notches for the injector spray if you're adamant about keeping your L26 in the car. I heard from an Aussie that did this...

 

It's not the block, rather the head. See post #1...

 

[assuming i have a head which can handle injection eg p79]

[bmw engin in s30]

Although an M motor, a lot of the conversion would be the same or similar... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/79806-rt260-bmw-m-powered/

[rt260, BMW M Powered]

Finished up the mounts....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The trans. mount now offsets the drivetrain to the passenger side another 7/16", aligning directly with the diff. pinion flange.

[rt260, BMW M Powered]

Thanks Skib. Wife and I are still working out our plans for Sunday. Not sure if we'll be around or not. There's some Blue Bore in the Coke machine

[s30 rack in a s130?]

If you install it in the same location as the ZX, the car will steer opposite. That is to say, the car will turn left, when you turn the wheel to the right. Seems like a poor choice, but I've been wrong before

[My new daily driver selection.]

[What is this?]

"Emergency Switch". It's part of the interlock system.

[Trying to get the stock gauges to work]

I have minimal experience with MS, but I've done a few aftermarket EMS swaps and have never been able to get the tach. working directly on a 280zx. There are tach. adapters available that 'condition' the signal. MSD makes one and seems to work fine.

 

Did your temp gauge work before MS was installed? Unless you've altered the circuit, it's completely independent of the EFI. Also, the wire shouldn't be "hanging from the sender". There is a 'post' on the sender that the yellow wire plugs into.

[rocky auto carbon fibre s30z]

I'm not getting excited until someone builds the structure from CF.

[Why is it so slow here lately]

This forum has always been more about quality than quantity. Not an explanation, necessarily, but...

[Do you have water on your right side floor board?]

If I only drove my Z in fair weather... I'd never get to drive it.

 

 

Thanks for sharing, Olie

[My new daily driver selection.]

Heck yeah

[rt260, BMW M Powered]

Thanks John

 

If it would stop raining for more than 30 seconds, we could do a BBQ and dust off our bench racing skills

[rt260, BMW M Powered]

Took a full day to prune the engine compartment harness... no more shunt, EGR, voltage reg., interlock, emergency switch, A/C controls, or ignition module.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also built the crossmember spacers (1/2"). I probably should have bought these from JTR ($25.00 shipped), but I had the material on hand and the milling machine made quick work of it.

 

 

 

[Painting a intake to keep it cool]

1) The laws of physics haven't changed much in the last three years... this thread is just as relevant today as it was then.

2) Conductive, convective, and radiant heating are not the same thing.

[L6 DIS Brackets (LSX Coils) Now Available]

There has been enough interest to build another small batch. 10 more ready for shipping.

 

Please note: I have raised the price, but now include shipping.

[rt260, BMW M Powered]

Let the gutting begin...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No turning back now

[ZCC - Custom Tail Project (Rear Spoiler)]

[rt260, BMW M Powered]

azcarbum was kind enough to import a set of Euro tails for me...

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Brian!

[rt260, BMW M Powered]

Removed...

 

Front/rear bumpers and shocks.

Factory A/C (underhood components only).

Spare tire & jack.

 

 

Installed...

 

240 front bumper.

MSA Type 1 air dam.

15x6.5 alloy wheels with 205/50/15 Potenza RE-11's.

 

 

Dry weight w/full interior, L28E, and 5 speed... 2450lbs

 

Looks like my target of 2500lbs should be do-able.

 

 

 

Modeled up the Ron Davis radiator. I think I've settled on the mounts. I want to be able to bolt it up to the stock locations. So far this is the cleanest option I've come up with...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm still hammering out the fan shroud....

 

 

 

[Scratchbuilt L6 EFI Intake Manifold]

I have no plans of building another, for a while.

[Electric fans]

Any suggestions?

 

Yes... fix your temp. gauge before doing anything else. Guessing is overrated.

[How to steal a S30]

Trunk Monkey rocks!

 

This dealership is about 5 minutes from me, so the ads are pretty prevalent around here. My favorite is the one you linked

[How to steal a S30]

I like Tony's rotor idea

 

A couple decades back, I had a 260. It looked far nicer than it actually was. I'm tall, so the seat was always in the most rearward position. I lived in an apt. complex in a not-so-nice area. One evening, someone stole it, parked it under a bridge, and took the wheels and stereo. It was recovered the next day, with the seat *very* forward. Once back in my possession, with fresh equipment, I would swap the coil wire with one spark plug wire (at the cap). I reasoned, in the dark, the chances of the average Datsun thief figuring this out would be slim. A few mornings later, I found the door unlocked and the seat *far* forward. I'm reasonably certain it was the same pond scum. It worked at the time. And depending on the level of thief you're dealing with, it may work again.

[Can a driveshaft be too long?]

It is likely to cause you trouble. The problem is, the engine/trans will move rearward and slam into the yoke, especially as you transition from hard braking to hard acceleration. The least that can happen is seal failure. A good friend did something similar with an S130. He cracked two tailshaft housings before figuring it out. I shoot for 1/2", but I suspect most people could get away with 3/8". Anything less than that (with rubber mounts) would have me uneasy.