RTz

Post #1 says he has an '83. You made a technical error and I corrected it. That makes me bad? Your help is appreciated, but if its incorrect information it confuses things further, yes? Why would you leave a forum because you don't like one person? There is NO place you're going to go and like everyone. EVERY person here doesn't like someone. It's part of life. One of our rules requests 'thick skin'. You should try it.

The ROTOR doesn't clock 180, the quill shaft does. Better?

The rotor doesn't turn 180.

Very off topic... and its been discussed.

...changing thread title...

...and thank you for not doing such As trivial as it may seem, the two terms, sensor/sender, get interchanged far too often, making it very inefficient to find that which matters to the 'searcher'. Been there, failed that.

Actually, that would be a sender.

No such thing as a water temp sensor in a '72.

I second that notion

How do you know its slipping? I'm betting it's not. Was the car running fine before the gasket swap? Tell us *EXACTLY* how you set the cam timing.

Now I just need to get it to handle like it runs. Always something to do, eh?

...Well, it's been shortened more than I had remembered. The leads average about 18" long. Probably not worth what it would cost to ship to Oz. Sorry.

I had a little fun with your quote... hope you don't mind. Your thought pattern fit Datsun nearly 40 years ago.

I might have one for you.... heavy on the MIGHT. I'll do some checking later today.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128577 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135954 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136721

A few years back I did a V8 swap in an S30 specifically to see if an affordable and somewhat clean swap could be done. Not quite apples to apples, but it might help give you an idea... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118146

Why so serious?

I guess even superheros are becoming fuel conscious!

Cooling/Intercooler... This is one of my least favorite items. In fact, it bugs me so much, I don't even want to talk about it. I used a '96 Volkswagen GTI VR6 radiator (same as the the VG30DETT listed in post #1) as well as an early (I think) Mckinny Motorsports intercooler. The short version is that everything is in the way of everything. This arrangement can be forced into submission by removing/plugging the two lower radiator passes (and a little cursing along the way helps, too). The result is a system with abrupt intercooler bends, a compromised radiator, and a cumbersome fill method. I added two Schrader valves, one on the high point of the engine, and one on the high point of the radiator. This purges the air satisfactorily, but its clearly barbaric. The intent all along has been to add a continuous bleed expansion tank. It's on the agenda... lest I get a wild hair and completely redo the whole shebang. With a front mounted intercooler, I prefer to run a mechanical fan. A couple of agreeable surprises surfaced... an S30 fan clutch bolts on to the SR water pump, perfectly. Bolt pattern and pilot are still same as the old L-series. Cool. BUT, the S30 fan sits too far rearward. Flipping it around positions it nicely (about 5/8" from radiator), but the blades face the wrong direction. We happen to have a VG30E sitting around, and bless Nissan's little heart, they cast that fan exactly backwards. It couldn't fit any better if Nissan had planned it. Maybe they did? So far, its been mostly cold and wet, so commenting on cooling performance is premature. I'll I can say at this point is... its 'doing fine'.

Steering... Normally, the crosslink is a minor issue with an SR swap. There is some interference with the NVH braces at the back of the oil pan. The usual methods are to machine down the braces, or use a modified crosslink. However, with the above motor mounts, the engine sits a little higher than 'normal'. The only contact is right at full lock, the centerlink *barley* touches the lower bellhousing bolts. It's causing no trouble... just one of those things that whispers in the back of your mind "ya know Ron, rack & pinion would solve that problem"...

Driveshaft... I was a bit surprised to find the slip yoke of the original 510 driveshaft fits the SR transmission. Just a matter of having it shortened and freshened up. Final length ended up being 35 5/8", centerline of front U-joint to back of pinion flange.

Uh, yeah. Why is that every time someone asks about a specific engine swap, 11 people tell him he should be using something else? Can we ease up on that a bit, pretty please?

Yeah, 'prolly kill an ordinary man

Actually, I was thinking how much fun it would be to ride to NC